hddude

By jove, I now understand why my ancestors left ye olde country. Not a lot of rust on my 993 that has spent its entire life in the Phoenix area. Of course most of its rubber parts probably aren't too thrilled with the constant 100+ degree Summer days and near 0% humidity.

C4 NLW

Wow. I didn't realise they rusted like that, I thought these later Porsches were supposed to be pretty rust proof. My Targa is a warm climate car here in Hong Kong and I had the roof off and the front screen + seal replaced a couple of years ago, all was perfect under the roof and seals, no sign of rust at all. I am planning on bringing this car back to the UK though, Hmmmmm? It must be all that salt they spread in the winter, summer running only then!

NineMeister

Not one of my best photos I agree. The rust bubble is actually directly under the VIN number and is quite large, maybe 1/2" wide. Keep looking and eventually you can make it out with the slight colour shade difference of the bubble.

NineMeister

The 993 is the first 911 that Porsche built with bonded in front & rear screens, the screens are fitted with a plastic coated alloy channel around the edge into which fits the outer rubber seal. Whilst I don't recommend that you remove the seal frequently, it can be removed for inspection by pulling the moulded tang up and away from the channel, however be warned that you need really strong thumbs & plenty of rubber lube to push it back in! Taking out the rubber will not affect the bond of the screen into the aperture, however in rare cases we have found the plastic channels damaged or delaminating from the glass which will hence require screen replacement and removing the seal may accentuate this problem, so remove the rubber at your own risk!

I suspect that there are many causes of these problems: maybe poor paint preparation at the factory, or insufficient sealant on the screen, or the seal rubbing away the paint due to chassis flex or damage caused by window replacement. The point of the thread though is not to allocate blame, it's to show you all how bad the corrosion can get if you ignore the signs of damage.

Ed Burdell

Thanks, Colin.

I've made it a habit of simply lifting the outer edge of the seal to let some water drain out from all four lower corners of front and rear glass. Hopefully this is effective without being too invasive.

Ed Burdell

Ah, I see the bubble now in the first pic. I don't have anything like that on my car, thank goodness.

NineMeister

Here are a few better quality photos of the front of the silver 993 before we take the screen out; hence a worst case scenario if the back end is anything to go by.

JPP

I just did this, and my car spent most of it's life in Las Vegas with a short stint in Southern Ca. I noticed a very slight single half-bubble at the driver side windshield seal edge on the cowl and after pulling the seal found even worse corrosion on the passenger side lower corner where there was no visible evidence at all. Bodyshop said the windshield was the original factory glass but the seals had shrunk from sun/heat which allowed moisture in. I would have never caught if I hadn't been polishing the cowl under flourescent light.

My windshield alone was $1100 with install and the total repair, including windshield, was close to $3700 (£2500). The damage wasn't anywhere near as bad as the cars shown here ...

timothymoffat

Had my 95 in the shop in December addressing this issue. A battle with a flying crab trap (really, you can't make that **** up) last summer left me with several scars on the front bumper as well as a cracked windshield (screen). Insurance paid for the bumper repair (with some $$$ from my pocket for bumperette delete/clear euro corners) and windshield replacement. I paid for the rust repair and had the rear window pulled to address rust at the base as well. Total bill: CDN$ 5700, split roughly 50/50 with the insurance co.

Not letting water sit in this area seems about the only solution.

meek

964s suffer the same issues and because of the age difference, it has been more apparent for longer. I had my front screen redone and managed to catch the rust before it had gone too far. However, previous posters are right in that water collects under the not so water tight seal, even when knew. Doesn't really matter if the paint on the channel is good, if water is sitting against it for years on end, it will get through.

I have a tube of body sealant that I was planning on applying in the concealed gap between the rubber and channel, where the water collects. Has anyone done this successfully?

mongrelcat

Seems like a good idea to me.

Bilt Hamber makes a few products that might be useful with these type of issues, as a precautionary measure, or if there is only minimal damage.

http://www.bilthamber.com/

Check the products under the Corrosion tabs for repairs, and under Coating for precautionary use (Dynax S50 looks like it might be the ticket for precautionary "sealant" usage.)

The company has product support here:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...play.php?f=149

Here's a repair thread:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=133377















(No affiliation, other than I've used their AutoClay product with good success)

NP993

I recently put a new front outer windshield seal on my car, and I noticed that the underside of the outer lip is a felt-like surface. It seems intended *not* to seal against water, but instead to actually create a porous interface that will let water in, and also out. Anyone else notice this?

berni29

Hi

I am going to squirt Valvoline Tectyl ML around my front and rear screens under the rubbers. It is a top quality rust preventer/inhibitor. That should keep the water out surely? It goes on like a penetrating oil then cures to a firm waxy consistency. I have been spraying it in all sorts of places on my 993.

Berni

Paul M

There are few more scary pictures in these threads from the back end of last year:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...highlight=rust

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...highlight=rust

JB 911

I have been pulling out the corners of my rear window seal to allow it to dry completely after a wash.

The front ones won't pop out with the same effort so I have been blowing them out with a rubber tip on my compressor. It works pretty well, but I don't feel like it gets as dry as the backs do.

Anybody have success pulling the front ones out? Should I try a little harder?