My latest 993 project
02-09-2010, 04:17 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Bob:
The amp board (plate... it was made of Mg.) had brackets to the unibody at the bottom and brackets that bolted to the top shock bolts. As my car had a shock tower brace, I used a longer stud to allow the complete stack up of cross brace, amp board bracket, washer and nut. The Mag. amp board was a little extreme but fun to make / discuss.
Once I got past having the amp in the front, I realized that using that locale allowed for a much nicer amp than simply squirreling one away under the pass. seat.
Like "Raptor" showed, I passed my control wires through the same location begin aware that I need to tie the bundle away from the clutch mechanics.
Enjoy the "tunes" quest.
The amp board (plate... it was made of Mg.) had brackets to the unibody at the bottom and brackets that bolted to the top shock bolts. As my car had a shock tower brace, I used a longer stud to allow the complete stack up of cross brace, amp board bracket, washer and nut. The Mag. amp board was a little extreme but fun to make / discuss.
Once I got past having the amp in the front, I realized that using that locale allowed for a much nicer amp than simply squirreling one away under the pass. seat.
Like "Raptor" showed, I passed my control wires through the same location begin aware that I need to tie the bundle away from the clutch mechanics.
Enjoy the "tunes" quest.
I'm thinking about a simplier and less eligant solution. More home work.
Bob-
02-09-2010, 05:40 PM
#33
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bob:
I'd love to tell you the brackets were my idea. A local to me stereo shop made the first revision of my amp board and used MDF. For Jim's Stereo Version 1.0, the MDF was high density and weighed a lot. I remade the pieces and "matured" them to the usual Porsche owner level of OCD.
Why Mag. ???? While scrounging around a local metal shop, I found a wayward plate of Mag. and thought hmmm..., I can make something out of that someday. If I did it again, I simply use aluminum. I like the metal as you can drill and tap the amp mounting screws keeping the amp R/R able to be done without removing the mounting plate.
As I suspect, the build process is as much fun as the result.
Cheers
I'd love to tell you the brackets were my idea. A local to me stereo shop made the first revision of my amp board and used MDF. For Jim's Stereo Version 1.0, the MDF was high density and weighed a lot. I remade the pieces and "matured" them to the usual Porsche owner level of OCD.
Why Mag. ???? While scrounging around a local metal shop, I found a wayward plate of Mag. and thought hmmm..., I can make something out of that someday. If I did it again, I simply use aluminum. I like the metal as you can drill and tap the amp mounting screws keeping the amp R/R able to be done without removing the mounting plate.
As I suspect, the build process is as much fun as the result.
Cheers
02-09-2010, 05:58 PM
#34
Drifting
My amp board is similar to Jim's except with the low tech MDF board. I have pics somewhere. The lower mounts tuck in between the fuel tank and the fuel tank straps and are effectively clamped. The board is under the carpet and the amp is on top of it and visible. I guess I have another upgrade coming now which involves a sheet of aluminum. 
If only I could justify the aluminum spool gun and bottle upgrade for my MIG machine.
If only I could justify the aluminum spool gun and bottle upgrade for my MIG machine.
02-09-2010, 06:18 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
My amp board is similar to Jim's except with the low tech MDF board. I have pics somewhere. The lower mounts tuck in between the fuel tank and the fuel tank straps and are effectively clamped. The board is under the carpet and the amp is on top of it and visible. I guess I have another upgrade coming now which involves a sheet of aluminum. If only I could justify the aluminum spool gun and bottle upgrade for my MIG machine.
If only I could justify the aluminum spool gun and bottle upgrade for my MIG machine."These directions assume you have already physically mounted your amplifier to a solid, non-conductive surface (non-metal). "
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/how_to_i...tall_a_car_amp
The statement was not backed up with "why not"
but I guess when you are working around positive and negative speaker wires and positive and negative power wires you might not want a big conductor around.
I guess if you are REALLY careful....Any thoughts on this?
Bob-
02-09-2010, 07:42 PM
#36
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One thought... verify that your amp's output is isolated from the chassis ground.
Many of the car amps, specifically those that support common speaker ground likely need to be ground isolated. I got burned on a GM installation over this "tidbit". Others may have more info / details on this.
Many of the car amps, specifically those that support common speaker ground likely need to be ground isolated. I got burned on a GM installation over this "tidbit". Others may have more info / details on this.
02-09-2010, 09:28 PM
#37
Drifting
no but maybe I should get some 
Apart from the mounting screws the amp would be isolated from the aluminum by the carpet. I don't know if that is good enough. I could always use some sort of composite board instead of aluminum. Maybe I'll just leave it as is.
Apart from the mounting screws the amp would be isolated from the aluminum by the carpet. I don't know if that is good enough. I could always use some sort of composite board instead of aluminum. Maybe I'll just leave it as is.
