distributor belt replaced. Just in time?
#21
#22
One thing I'd love to change about the 993 is the ignition system. It's such an antique. The distributor belt is a PITA to replace, the bearings, caps, and rotors are expensive, and the wires cost a fortune and are a HUGE pain to replace. Altogether a crap setup -- high-maintenance, labor intensive, expensive.
Is there any good reason why someone can't make a kit for a modern, coil-on-plug ignition system? No distributor, no caps, rotors, or wires. Nothing to wear. I'd pay good money for something like that. The long-term savings would be immense.
I'm guessing the real problem here is the ECU, which is not designed to control spark, and can't be modified to do so. Sigh.
Is there any good reason why someone can't make a kit for a modern, coil-on-plug ignition system? No distributor, no caps, rotors, or wires. Nothing to wear. I'd pay good money for something like that. The long-term savings would be immense.
I'm guessing the real problem here is the ECU, which is not designed to control spark, and can't be modified to do so. Sigh.
#23
Spend a ton of money on good aftermarket Engine Management such as Motec M600 and you can do it.
Unfortunately, it would no longer be smog-legal (OBD-1) or smog compliant (OBD-2).
That "old" distributor was a pretty cost-effective and reliable solution at the time. Current Motronic systems (M7.2 and later) supports C-O-P operation.
Given how long these things last and the annual mileage that most cars accumulate, IMHO its not an unmanagable expense.
#24
That "old" distributor was a pretty cost-effective and reliable solution at the time. Current Motronic systems (M7.2 and later) supports C-O-P operation.
Given how long these things last and the annual mileage that most cars accumulate, IMHO its not an unmanagable expense.
Given how long these things last and the annual mileage that most cars accumulate, IMHO its not an unmanagable expense.
Cheers,
Joe
#25
...and now that I think about it, that one ignition coil I did replace was a mod, and not due to its failure
Edward
#26
Should the belt fail on the road, can one not run on the primary distributor to get home?
As for the secondary distributor, I'd pull the rotor and disconnect the leads going to that ignition coil. Would that make sense to do?
As for the secondary distributor, I'd pull the rotor and disconnect the leads going to that ignition coil. Would that make sense to do?
#27
Yessir, in the majority of situations, the operational distributor will get you home without question.
The problem lies with where the lower distributor's rotor comes to rest when the belt breaks. If it stops while lined up with a cylinder's tab inside the cap, it keeps firing that cylinder at all the wrong times resulting in detonation and melted pistons, heads, broken rings, etc. Its truly expensive.
Removing the rotor is the best solution for preventing catastrophic engine damage until one can replace the belt.
#28
Hi Alex,
...The problem lies with where the lower distributor's rotor comes to rest when the belt breaks. If it stops while lined up with a cylinder's tab inside the cap, it keeps firing that cylinder at all the wrong times resulting in detonation and melted pistons, heads, broken rings, etc. Its truly expensive.
Removing the rotor is the best solution for preventing catastrophic engine damage until one can replace the belt.
...The problem lies with where the lower distributor's rotor comes to rest when the belt breaks. If it stops while lined up with a cylinder's tab inside the cap, it keeps firing that cylinder at all the wrong times resulting in detonation and melted pistons, heads, broken rings, etc. Its truly expensive.
Removing the rotor is the best solution for preventing catastrophic engine damage until one can replace the belt.
Edward
#30
Hi Alex,
The problem lies with where the lower distributor's rotor comes to rest when the belt breaks. If it stops while lined up with a cylinder's tab inside the cap, it keeps firing that cylinder at all the wrong times resulting in detonation and melted pistons, heads, broken rings, etc. Its truly expensive.
The problem lies with where the lower distributor's rotor comes to rest when the belt breaks. If it stops while lined up with a cylinder's tab inside the cap, it keeps firing that cylinder at all the wrong times resulting in detonation and melted pistons, heads, broken rings, etc. Its truly expensive.
OK, some thoughts. I may have tons of Porsche books, but I am new to these.
Is the hall effect sensor within the distributor and if so, then it would have a 6 pronged rotor. I may be an electronics tech, but I'm not up on hall effect sensors. Wouldn't it only trigger the coil if the rotor sweeps past the hall effect sensor?
And if none of the above is the case, what triggers the coil and where is it triggered from?
Also, a misfire is quite noticeable from experience. I'd pull in the clutch and turn off the ignition ASAP. Very little can happen in the way of melting pistons, etc. in a few seconds. Thats provided belt failure is noticeable.
I'll buy a spare belt and keep it with my DME relay.