This is a very easy fix, after getting the $1400 quote from my stealership, I thought twice and ordered the motor from Pelican for ~$430. All work was done with cab top open. Took approximately 20-30 minutes start to stop, including running to the basement for the right tools...(stealer said 1.5 hours at $160/each) - which are a small philips head screw driver and a 5mm (I think) allen wrench.

Here's the new motor, vs the motor still in the cab top frame:


Unscrew one screw on either side of cab top trim piece.


Once screws are removed, gently remove trim pieces - there are several tabs that you have to pull out, but they go right back in once completed.


There's the target - readily accessible and waiting for removal - you will see the manual adjust wheel at the end of the motor (unfortunately not pictured - it's to the right in this picture - you will want to spin that to make sure it is all the way open so it's easier to get through the very small hole in the frame.


There are four allen wrench bolts (I believe 5mm) that need to be removed - not a challenge.




Here is the OEM (PO had done the recall, even though the original was working fine). Here's the "aftermarket" vs "OEM" picture - the only way to tell them apart is by the wear on the latching wheels.




You can see the single plug that needs to be unplugged to remove the original. Once you get the motor out, the installation is a simple reverse procedure - minding the seating of the motor on the frame, but there's not much play so easy to execute.

Well worth it - not even a "1" on a scale of "1 to 10".

Good luck!

 

First of all, thanks for the write up. How does this relate to the teeth breaking in the latch itself? I have functioning motors but they pop out when they seat into the frame. I guess my question is were your motors just bad and stopped working or did you have a similar problem to me?
http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...otor+Gear.aspx
I was goint to attempt to use the above part from Vertex and keep the motors-What is the conventional wisdom out there?

 

The teeth on both the screw drive and the gear on mine were shot, so when I brought the top down, it clicked when it was trying to seat. I took a look at trying to replace the parts after I removed it and it looked like it was not goint to be very simple, but then again, I had already replaced the motor, so it wasn't a real priority...

 

Where were you earlier?... I just took mine in to my indie for repair. Thanks for the writeup and pics.
b

 

Good write-up. You should send this to Pcar Workshop if you haven't already.

 

ga993 - sorry, wish i could have gotten the DIY up earlier - too many soccer games, evening meetings, leaves on the lawn, etc, etc!!

 

Same here, Brian and I too are tempted to just replace the missing teeth gear only, but if the worm drive is also worn ...??... well I reckon you took the best route by replacing the whole motor. On mine the worm gear is spinning over the missing teeth and I guess therefore not rotating the latch sufficient to roll the cam over the micro switch to trigger and extinguish the "Cab Top Open" dash warning light.

Brian can you please tell me how can I tell if the recall has been done or not, what do I look for ?

Thanks
Sean.

 

Sean,

Sorry 4 late reply - recall had been done. Since the new motor is exactly the same as the motor they replaced, there are several conclusions: 1) don't do the recall until the motor fails, 2) if you can get the dealer to replace only the failed motor (rather than both) when you go in for a recall, might be worth it and 3) don't expect the replacement motors to last all that long...

 

Vertex sells that gear and I am going to attempt to replace it as the rest of the motor seems to function normally. My top will not lock too--just kind of pops out and tries to re-seat. Link: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...otor+Gear.aspx
I'll post with pictures some time during the holidays.

 

*willis,

Very interested to hear how that turns out. I was tempted but the worm gear on mine was also shot. Take some pics through the process, since the motor disassembly looks like a bit of a chore (but I held onto mine in case someone, like you, figured it out!)

Good luck and happy holidays!

 

Sean -

Just realized I didn't answer your question. To find out if the motor has been recalled & replaced, just call Porsche USA with your VIN. They will know.

 

Thanks Brian. I called Porsche Aus, quoted my VIN and sure enough the recall had been done, but only 4 years ago !? latch gear with broken teeth already !?So you're spot on - the replacement motors don’t seem to have the same longevity.
I had success removing the gear off the splined latch shaft and rotating the broken teeth around to where the teeth never ever come into contact with the worm gear. Reset the cam to activate the limit micro switch and now the cab top closes tight and snug, .... and the warning light now extinguishes as well

BTW,
the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open with a flat screw driver.

To remove or replace the latch gear:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure.

 

Just had both motors replaced by Porsche dealer. The cost for both motors is $485.
Apparantly, Porsche decided to reduce the price. Surprisingly, if you were to purchase them separately at Porsche, each costs $1100!

 

ifarmand -
that's good news - $1100 for that motor is ridiculous. Might make this DIY obsolete, too!!!

 

Thanks for the great DYI write up. Although, the top motor cost have came down somewhat but the dealers' labor charge (they charge at least 2 hrs @ $130) have not !

Funny thing is that, after changing the top motors, the cab light still comes on as before. To turn off the cab light, I need to press the cab switch each time I turn on the ignition. This happens in open or close top position. Have also changed the switch, but the same thing happens.
Other than a faulty controller unit, I don't know what the problem might be.
Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks for your inputs.