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Going to attempt the "DIY Suspension Install for Dummies" this morning...

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Old 12-27-2009, 02:16 PM
  #46  
C4S993
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Thanks Matt,

The Perch cannot be moved up unless I remove the lower shock bolt and lower toe control arm and rotate the Perch so it can go higher up shock's body and yield more drop link clearance.

I use the local NTB as they have gotten it right before and the local P-dealer has not (for some reason).

I am curious about the curved drop links that you talked about. Where can I get those ?

I have read about an adjustable drop link (rear) by Tarett. Are they shorter than the drop links supplied with the PSS10 kit ?

Patrick

Last edited by C4S993; 12-27-2009 at 02:49 PM.
Old 12-28-2009, 12:33 PM
  #47  
MarkD
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Originally Posted by C4S993
Thanks Mark,

The Perch cannot be moved up unless I remove the lower shock bolt and lower toe control arm and rotate the Perch so it can go higher up shock's body and yield more drop link clearance.
Exactly... which is the most painful part of the install (and corner balance) unless you have had some practice and get the height right the first time.

Originally Posted by C4S993
I use the local NTB as they have gotten it right before and the local P-dealer has not (for some reason).
Not too surprising. Just make sure you use a shop with the correct tool to do the kinematic toe.

Originally Posted by C4S993
I am curious about the curved drop links that you talked about. Where can I get those ?

I have read about an adjustable drop link (rear) by Tarett. Are they shorter than the drop links supplied with the PSS10 kit ?

Patrick
The curved drop link is an RS piece. You do not need it unles yuo are going to set the ride height very low. Part # is 993-333-073-80
If I recall correctly the Tarett links are not shorter that the OE style links.
Old 12-28-2009, 01:05 PM
  #48  
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Thanks Mark, That rules out the easy solution; Tarrets. Also, the RS style rear sway links look like they sit so low (below the Toe Arm) that they would attract stuff on the Pa. roads and break. My car is a tad lower, and I knew this would happen as the PSS10 are said to be not stock height anyway. I set the PSS10s to the highest height settings per their supplied specs.


It is my fault as I should not have buttoned it all up (heater blower, air filter housing, top 4 shock hat 13mm nuts, Toe Arm bolts and 18mm nuts) without first setting the loaded rear link(s) clearance.

I called NTB today and the good guy there that knows 4 wheel alignment is off till Friday. They claim to have a new $$$$$ 4 wheel digital alignment system. I assume kinematic toe is really another name for Caster ?

The Corner Balance should be a lot easier as the shock heights can be moved up or down using the collars/tool (without removing all the above noted hardware). The heights are all set at the Belstien highest range so the Corner balances should be ok.

Patrick
Old 12-28-2009, 07:38 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by C4S993
Thanks Mark, That rules out the easy solution; Tarrets. Also, the RS style rear sway links look like they sit so low (below the Toe Arm) that they would attract stuff on the Pa. roads and break. My car is a tad lower, and I knew this would happen as the PSS10 are said to be not stock height anyway. I set the PSS10s to the highest height settings per their supplied specs.


It is my fault as I should not have buttoned it all up (heater blower, air filter housing, top 4 shock hat 13mm nuts, Toe Arm bolts and 18mm nuts) without first setting the loaded rear link(s) clearance.

I called NTB today and the good guy there that knows 4 wheel alignment is off till Friday. They claim to have a new $$$$$ 4 wheel digital alignment system. I assume kinematic toe is really another name for Caster ?

The Corner Balance should be a lot easier as the shock heights can be moved up or down using the collars/tool (without removing all the above noted hardware). The heights are all set at the Belstien highest range so the Corner balances should be ok.

Patrick
Glad you got it resolved!

Couple of things:
- kinematic toe is unique to the 993 and needs a "special tool"
- the drop links supplied with the PSS10s work just fine when set at the right height (don't ask me the spec, sorry!) so you are in good shape
Old 12-28-2009, 07:39 PM
  #50  
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Mark, I got it fixed this afternoon, took me 5 hours !

I moved the perch upward 5 turns, about 10mm and
that yielded a significant improvement in the clearance between the Drop links and the Toe Arm.

http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0881.jpg

The PSS10 supplied Drop links were 88mm versus the old stock Drop Links which were 123mm, a 35mm difference.

What does the special tool do
to the "kinematic toe' ? I'll ask NTB when their
4 wheel alignment guru returns from vacation this Friday.

Thanks for your help.
Old 12-28-2009, 07:53 PM
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^^^^still looks very tight^^^^
Old 12-28-2009, 09:53 PM
  #52  
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Would another inch be better ? I can get the "simi custom" Taretts to get that inch more clearance.

Patrick
1996 C4S
Old 12-28-2009, 10:08 PM
  #53  
MarkD
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Originally Posted by C4S993
Mark, I got it fixed this afternoon, took me 5 hours !

I moved the perch upward 5 turns, about 10mm and
that yielded a significant improvement in the clearance between the Drop links and the Toe Arm.

http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0881.jpg

The PSS10 supplied Drop links were 88mm versus the old stock Drop Links which were 123mm, a 35mm difference.

What does the special tool do
to the "kinematic toe' ? I'll ask NTB when their
4 wheel alignment guru returns from vacation this Friday.

Thanks for your help.
The kinematic toe tool is used when setting the kinematic toe. It is a simple tool but a necessary one.
You can end up with some funky handling and premature tire wear if it is not set up properly.
Old 12-28-2009, 10:44 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by C4S993
Would another inch be better ? I can get the "simi custom" Taretts to get that inch more clearance.

Patrick
1996 C4S
Patrick, The guess the true test will be when you drive the car. If sway war and control arm don't touch you should be ok. Mark D chime in here please...

I'm not sure why you have clearance issues. I followed the diy below and had no problems. I tried to find a good pic of my install. This is the best I could find. I have zero interference issues and as you can see from the pic I have some room to lower the car more if desired. I used the drop links provided in the PSS10 kit. I also used a 3rd lock ring to hold things in place. I know, theoretically this is not needed but was included in my kit and seems to work for me. My car ride height is set at approximately ROW Road Sport.

GL-

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-dummies.html



Bob-
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Old 12-29-2009, 01:17 AM
  #55  
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FYI. I talked to the alignment tech at my local NTB about the 993's "Kinematic Toe adjustment that requires a special tool" and he looked at me like a deer in the headlights. It was obvious he had no idea what I was talking about. I let NTB mount and balance my wheels but wouldn't let them near the corner balance and alignment after that. Just my $.02 take the corner balance & alignment portion to a shop that has set up as many 993's as possible. Experience Trumps fancy equipment. make sure he knows the 993 before you let him touch it.

Nick
Old 12-29-2009, 09:28 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by C4S993
What does the special tool do
to the "kinematic toe' ?
Originally Posted by MarkD
The kinematic toe tool is used when setting the kinematic toe. It is a simple tool but a necessary one.
You can end up with some funky handling and premature tire wear if it is not set up properly.
Pic reference:
http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p93163.htm
Old 12-29-2009, 11:05 AM
  #57  
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Bob: That space (in your picture) looks about what I now have. Can I ask a dumb Q ? I put my upper two rear collars up to the limit of 210mm (the instructions note a range of 195 to 210mm. Then I at first set the Drop Link Perch at the instructions setting of 175mm. The latter yielded hardly any clearance between the drop link and the Toe Arm. So, yesterday I took everything apart and moved the Perch up another 10mm to 185mm and that yielded the space that you have in your picture (un-loaded). QUESTION: Did I by going to the spring settings of 210mm actually lower the car ? I thought by going to the upper linit of 210mm I would be not at the lowest settings ?

Kinematic Tool: I too will ask the NTB guru this Friday about that tool, in the past he has told me there was something he could not "adjust" but he got it in such a way that my tire wear is normal and that was not the case with the next door P-Dealer when I was going through rear tires every 6k miles !

I have owned my 1996 C4S for 5 years and ever since I have owned it the rear was almost deadly in rain, so I put 17" wheels on it with snow tires to deal with the rain problems (rear feels like it wants to loose control). I have always suspected the alignment was off. I'll know more Friday.

You guys are great !

Thanks again,

Patrick
Old 12-29-2009, 11:26 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by C4S993
Bob: That space (in your picture) looks about what I now have. Can I ask a dumb Q ? I put my upper two rear collars up to the limit of 210mm (the instructions note a range of 195 to 210mm. Then I at first set the Drop Link Perch at the instructions setting of 175mm. The latter yielded hardly any clearance between the drop link and the Toe Arm. So, yesterday I took everything apart and moved the Perch up another 10mm to 185mm and that yielded the space that you have in your picture (un-loaded). QUESTION: Did I by going to the spring settings of 210mm actually lower the car ? I thought by going to the upper linit of 210mm I would be not at the lowest settings ?
Patrick, I think you should be ok with what you did. If you have a similar clearance to what I have you should be good. The only way to change the road height that I know is to adjust the vertical position of the two collars on the bottom of the spring. Moving the collars up raises the car and moving them down lowers the car. I had to do a lot of trial and error to get the car to the road height that I wanted. Which means you need to move the collars and then load the car weight on and see the results. It was a PITA for me to get it right. I did it w/o a lift so it took a fair amount of time.

Hope this helps.

BTW, my car is firmly planted in wet conditions. Make sure you get someone who knows how to align a 993 do your alignment.



Bob-
Old 12-29-2009, 12:37 PM
  #59  
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Thanks Bob, I'll see what the "guru" at NTB can do Friday and if he looks confused I will try a P-Dealer 60 miles away.

Thanks again,

Patrick
Old 12-29-2009, 08:50 PM
  #60  
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I just went to the dealer because they had the tool and didn't charge anymore than the local independent specialty shop.


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