pre-purchase questions
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, I know this is a very common issue, and I have researched it, so here goes:
All,
I am very close to purchasing a 1996 993, and just want a little reality check on major potential repair items. The car has 100K miles, and the present owner (4 years, last 20K miles) has had no real issues; but also has no records on previous maintenance history. I want to at least do light (DE) track duty with the car.
I understand the need for PPI with leakdown test, and valve guide inspection.
Are there any other major checks I need to do?
I am considering the following potential major issues could be lurking:
- valve guides: if bad could cost around $5K to replace.
- cylinder wear: if bad could cost around $10K to fix, and very extensive to verify present condition (i.e. would not be checked).
- transmission refresh may be necessary. Could cost around $8K, and also too intrusive to check.
- suspension has been upgraded including PSS9's at least 4 years ago (previous owner) so should good, and simple to inspect.
- RS clutch installed at least 4 years ago. Too intrusive to thouroughly check - easy to check general feel for present condition.
Any comments on the list above? Any other major demons to name? Any other general thoughts??
I am stretching a bit on a pretty good car here, and don't want to get bit by unknowns. I am pursuing a thorough PPI with leakdown test and valve guide inspection, so hopefully that should cover a number of evils. I'd appreciate experienced gotchas from all of you here.
I have researched here and elsewhere (hence the list above) and time is running short on this opportunity, so any assistance would really be appreciated!!
Thanks again to all on here!
All,
I am very close to purchasing a 1996 993, and just want a little reality check on major potential repair items. The car has 100K miles, and the present owner (4 years, last 20K miles) has had no real issues; but also has no records on previous maintenance history. I want to at least do light (DE) track duty with the car.
I understand the need for PPI with leakdown test, and valve guide inspection.
Are there any other major checks I need to do?
I am considering the following potential major issues could be lurking:
- valve guides: if bad could cost around $5K to replace.
- cylinder wear: if bad could cost around $10K to fix, and very extensive to verify present condition (i.e. would not be checked).
- transmission refresh may be necessary. Could cost around $8K, and also too intrusive to check.
- suspension has been upgraded including PSS9's at least 4 years ago (previous owner) so should good, and simple to inspect.
- RS clutch installed at least 4 years ago. Too intrusive to thouroughly check - easy to check general feel for present condition.
Any comments on the list above? Any other major demons to name? Any other general thoughts??
I am stretching a bit on a pretty good car here, and don't want to get bit by unknowns. I am pursuing a thorough PPI with leakdown test and valve guide inspection, so hopefully that should cover a number of evils. I'd appreciate experienced gotchas from all of you here.
I have researched here and elsewhere (hence the list above) and time is running short on this opportunity, so any assistance would really be appreciated!!
Thanks again to all on here!
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would say your biggest risk would be the valve guide which is at least 5K to fix.
Wouldn't worry about the cyl + pistons. Of the two 3.6 engines I had apart, the cylinder were in great shape and still had the honing marks. Replace the rings if you ever have to do the valve guide.
I never heard of transmission problem on these cars. Looks like you're good on the clutch and suspension.
Another thing to look for is SAI and the associated cost to fix oil leaks.
Wouldn't worry about the cyl + pistons. Of the two 3.6 engines I had apart, the cylinder were in great shape and still had the honing marks. Replace the rings if you ever have to do the valve guide.
I never heard of transmission problem on these cars. Looks like you're good on the clutch and suspension.
Another thing to look for is SAI and the associated cost to fix oil leaks.
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks axl911!
I hope you don't mind a few follow-up questions:
How can the SAI condition be determined?
Can harder/stronger valve guides be put in if they need to be replaced? If so, will an inspection reveal if this has been done, or just the present wear condition?
How many miles on the two 3.6 engines you've had apart, still showing honing marks?
And most importantly: where do you have more pics of that white ducktail??
I hope you don't mind a few follow-up questions:
How can the SAI condition be determined?
Can harder/stronger valve guides be put in if they need to be replaced? If so, will an inspection reveal if this has been done, or just the present wear condition?
How many miles on the two 3.6 engines you've had apart, still showing honing marks?
And most importantly: where do you have more pics of that white ducktail??
#4
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How can the SAI condition be determined?
- A check engine light will indicate a SAI fault code. Search for "SAI" and "CEL"
Can harder/stronger valve guides be put in if they need to be replaced? If so, will an inspection reveal if this has been done, or just the present wear condition?
- Yes, they do have harder valve guides. Mine wore at around 100K miles.
How many miles on the two 3.6 engines you've had apart, still showing honing marks?
- Both at around 100K. I just replaced the rings which were still in good shape...but may as well.
And most importantly: where do you have more pics of that white ducktail??
- Not sure if I ever posted these. I had a Euro turbo front bumper, but decided it looked better with the RS front end.
- A check engine light will indicate a SAI fault code. Search for "SAI" and "CEL"
Can harder/stronger valve guides be put in if they need to be replaced? If so, will an inspection reveal if this has been done, or just the present wear condition?
- Yes, they do have harder valve guides. Mine wore at around 100K miles.
How many miles on the two 3.6 engines you've had apart, still showing honing marks?
- Both at around 100K. I just replaced the rings which were still in good shape...but may as well.
And most importantly: where do you have more pics of that white ducktail??
- Not sure if I ever posted these. I had a Euro turbo front bumper, but decided it looked better with the RS front end.
#7
Pro
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Greater Seattle (via NH)
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You've covered all the bases. Don't know if your VIN is subject to the wiring harness recall. You can check with your local Porsche dealer as the harness replacement recall is still open. That can be about $2k depending upon where it is done.
Most important, is you should plan on something "unexpected" requiring at least $2k to repair happening in your first year or two of ownership. Frankly, 993's, if they have been maintained by previous owners are very strong cars. But you just need to plan on spending at least $2k/year to keep it up (without any "major" items such as valve guides, SAI fix, etc)
Most important, is you should plan on something "unexpected" requiring at least $2k to repair happening in your first year or two of ownership. Frankly, 993's, if they have been maintained by previous owners are very strong cars. But you just need to plan on spending at least $2k/year to keep it up (without any "major" items such as valve guides, SAI fix, etc)
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
At 100K you're very close mileage-wise to needing a top-end rebuild. And from my experience it'll cost at least $5K, probably closer to $8K. That will be the costliest, and likeliest, of all the major repairs you'll have in store in the near future.
For this car, a leakdown and compression test is a MUST.
For this car, a leakdown and compression test is a MUST.