I used the Dr Colorchip on my previous 2S. Worked pretty well actually, but my chips might not have been too deep.
I'm thinking about trying it with the TT but that's past a touch up on the front.

 

Thanks for the tips (my '96 is a Polar Silver, too).

As mentioned above - trying to buy time before the eventual respray. I know metallics are tougher than solid colors, but every little tip could make the difference between tolerable and forking over big bucks...

 

Do not expect too much for polar silver. It is very difficult to match.

 

Midnight Blue, worked OK but far from perfect, no measles marks which is a big plus. Color matched fine.

 

I have asked around for years on this subject and nobody knows a thing! How would I go about finding someone to do this?

 

On my black C2 the kit worked great. The proper technique is an acquired skill (learned over many wipe-offs and try-agains) but it eventually did a beautiful job on my rear fender road rash. I swear, the fenders looked like they had taken a hit from a shotgun. After it cured I covered the area with new clear 3M stone guards and now you can't even see the repair. Saved me the cost of a respray!

 

want it done right..paint the panel

 

Start painting and you risk mismatch, and painters wanting to blend in half the car just to address the front fenders & hood. I just like to reduce the rock-chip "patina" a little, and the Dr. works great. I've used on the GR and it works a treat. I used a kit on my olive-green pearl Volvo on a small scratch on the gas door (thanks, emission tester ), and it was outstanding - you cannot find it until you're about a foot away from it. It is true that you have to practice the technique a little to get it right. I have not used it to do a blanket area as they show, but I'm planning to try it on one of my cars.