David 23

I know this has been a recurring problem, and I have looked at search results on the topic, but it seems most posts are fairly old, and nothing completely resolved. So.... my 993 C4S has TRG bars, JIC coilovers, I had adjustable links installed, but had recurring rotation of the mounts to the point the link rubbed on the axle. (yes, the car was tracked) Now, I have had a complete failure of the bracket and destroyed the drop link. What is the solution others are using for this JIC/TRG combo? My shop contacted TRG, but was only directed to their website products, which was not particularly helpful.
I saw an older post that Chris W. was planning to make some newly designed mounts? Perhaps he or Bob Verburg or any others knowledgable about this can chime in or PM me.

Nollie

Not JIC or adjustable drop links... so I'm not sure how helpful it is but, I'm running Motons with the RS drop links which are curved from Steve W. He stressed to me the importance of having the rear drop links in a straight line when if you're looking along the up and down axis when the car is under load. For my front I kept the original drop links.

David 23

Thanks Nolie, every bit of information helps zero in on a solution.
Is that upper mount a Moton part? I assume you don't have rotation problems because of the locking collars on each side of it? Is that photo with the car weighted on the suspension? TRG bars?

Basal Skull

Notice the locking collar in the above pic - there is one both above and below the drop link mount to prevent it from getting loose. I also used some red thread lock compound...

Nollie

The collar Is actually a bilstien part but i'm told the Moton part is the same. They are TRG bars, the picture is with the suspension unloaded. I'll see if I can find some pictures with the suspension loaded.

Bill Verburg

You need these pieces,

long mounts(not the short)
RS drop links
locking collers







I mark the mounts and collers so that any rotation is easily visible & locktite the droplinks

TheOtherEric

The important thing is that you have a locknut above AND below the drop link mount. This is crucial. PSS9 owners have the exact same problem. BTDT.

Other than that, it doesn't really matter what parts you use as long as things fit. The locknuts is the key.

And like Bill said, mark things so you'll spot rotation. I got some vibration/tamper paint from www.mcmaster.com for really cheap.

Martin S.

too. I have in the past replaced the kinematic toe link, damaged because of a sway bar drop link rotation and numerous RS rear drop link brackets.

First of all, the 993 bars are too big for a narrow body car at 25mm front and 22mm rear. Possibly they are OK for a Carrera 4S. I have to run the fronts at full soft, always, or I get push from hell.

I was using stock drop links on front (Not a smart move) and 993RS drop links on the rear. I subsequently went to double locking collars, with a vertical paint stripe to indicate any change in tightness of the collars and Tarrett Engineering drop links with my TRG sway bars. I also use Tarrett drop links on the front as well.

Once I did this, my troubles were over...Chris Walrod was going to make a very slick collar...perhaps the arrival of his new son has put that project on hold.

Too bad the 993 GT2 bars have become unobtainable...they would work well with a wide body car. TRG after market support? Is it available?

David 23

Thanks to everyone, this is all really good information. I will go out to the shop today and look over what my set up is compared to what has been suggested here. One question; with the RS links not being adjustable, is the adjustment made using the vertical location of the collars?

ninjabones

The problem is likely that your upper and lower locking collars on the JIC struts are not secured tightly enough. Mine rotated as you mentioned with resultant rubbing on the half-shaft. The spanner wrench that comes with the setup will not get the collars tight enough to prevent rotation. Use a brass tap and whack the collars a few times with a rubber mallet to get them "ungodly" tight. Mine have not rotated since (more than 20 track days since doing this).

I too have the longer drop link mounts that Bill recommended. However, as you can see from his photo, with the odd configuration of the JIC setup there is still very little clearance between the rear sway bar and the toe link. If I were to move the sway to full stiff, it would rub on full suspension droop. You can see in Bill's photo a small divot in the suspension link likely from contact with the sway bar when the suspension was unloaded on that side.

Bill Verburg

That was from the original install using the short tangs at a supposedly knowledgeable east cost shop. At full droop the toe link would hit the sway bar. Use the long tangs and there will be no problem at any swaybar setting. I agree that the supplied wrenches won't get the collars tight enough, I tap them into place but still monitor them closely. The only issue i've had is that the drop link bolts have come loose, Loktite seems to solve that.

David 23

Bill,
Where are the tangs you pictured and suggest available? Are they Porsche RS parts?
Your help has been great, thank you.

Bill Verburg

TRG has them

Martin S.

Suggest you install double collars, pound the crap out of the collars to get them tight, paint a vertical stripe on them to check for any movement (rotation). Next order up a set of Tarrett drop links on "trial". If they dont fit, do everything you want, Tarrett (Ira Ranin) will take them back.

The big issue will be clearance at full drop, and can you get full adjustability to all 3 adjustment points on the bar.

Also note, the Tarrett drop links are adjustable for length. Some find this a real plus. I have had mine on for 3+ years, all is well...and I check the collars for any movement.

When Santa asks me for what I want in a few months, those TRG bars are going to be replaced by 993 RS bars.