dsam1961

Let me start the post by stating up front that I know I made a huge mistake in not checking everything before I handed over my cash.

I finally found a 1997 993 targa that was well cared for, full service history and in my price range as well as being in California. After a long drive (for me) to Palm Desert I drove the car and everything seemed perfectly genuine so I looked through all of the service records and checked with the dealership who had last serviced the vehicle less than a month prior to it being put up for sale privately and everything checked out.

Handed over the money and made the 150 journey home very happily in my new pride and joy. Then came the problem as I looked through the paperwork and there was no smog certificate, I called the seller who said he hadnt had it smogged and had not heard of anyone needing to have their car obtain one before a sale, which to be honest I remember having to do on my BMW. He didnt feel it was an issue as he said it will pass anyway and while I was less confident I went to my local smog check place and it duly failed on the dreaded OBD-II issue as everything else came back with a pass.

Called the seller and he is actually out of town which when I checked back through my emails he did actually say he was going out of the country so I dont have any reason to feel that he is avoiding me.

One of the mechanics told me that it was basically that I had not driven the car enough since the service when the battery would have been disconnected and the second guy then gave me the conflicting advice that never in a million miles will you clear the code issue in normal driving in and around Los Angeles as the interpretation by Porsche had been so strict that it was practically impossible to ever encounter that exact driving sequence unless you found a huge private space to use.

Doing the standard research it seems that the answer is to either find a dealership where they can use the 'rolling road' or get myself a scanner and take a few mornings to myself and do the sequence very deliberately.

My questions are does anyone have any experience of this in and around the West Hills area in California who would either lend me a scanner or help me out as a new Porsche owner, or does anyone have any experience of the referee program which other people have had success with.

Which model of scanner if I need to buy one would actually work in real time a the Porsche technician said that the only one he knew of was the 'hammer' which was thousands of dollars and honestly if I need to spend thousands just to register the car I may as well return it to the seller as it seems that I can do that given that the sale is void under some California Driving code stipulation about having the Smog Certification at the time of sale unless it was designated as off road, salvage or vehicle for parts which clearly it isnt as I drove it home.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated as I clearly am new enough to CA that owning a Porsche here could be a headache compared to Europe where the rules are somewhat simpler.

SDemas

So on the smog check fail it failed on the readiness codes?
Any simple obdII scanner will work for scanning and checking readiness. A simple one from Pepboys will work.
Do a search on getting readiness. Follow the procedure and scan for readiness.

helmet155

First thing is to get the DTC and see what the description of the DTC is. Most modern over the counter scanners can do this, and PEP boys will most likely do it for free. You want to check for the DTC (Diagnostic trouble code) and also see which readiness monitors are set. Do a search for the easy way to set readiness monitors on this site - use quotes around readiness monitors. Your smog tech should have given you more detail. It could have failed for readiness monitors, or it could have failed because the Check Engine Lamp does not work (does it work with key on, ignition off?)

Secondt thing to check is the check valve to make sure it is connected, and if connected, working, and if not connected...well connect it and verify it works.

3rd thing is to search for "SAI Flush" and/or "bass guitar" and start the flush - if it is indeed an SAI problem.

Start with the above.

-Brett

logan2z

You are correct, in California it is the seller's responsibility to have the car smogged at the time of sale:

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2537

dsam1961

The print out shows pass on everything except MIL Readiness indicators are not set is the issue

helmet155

Should be easy for you, there are some good guides here on how to set readiness codes

2Many Cars

Yeah, try to set the codes yourself or worst case pay a knowledgable indy to do it (there are a few around LA) then drive it and enjoy it. If you're looking for a place to drive for the reset program I recommend the hills around Ojai on an early Sunday morning.

dsam1961

I am thinking that as wonderful as Ojai is maybe I can get a clean run through one of the Canyons in Malibu or at Kanan Dune although the issue for me would be paying attention to the RPM and the road at the same time in the dark as its tight up there

helmet155

We have done drive cycles on the toll roads in Orange County at 4am before, works well. Use your hazards lamps if you see headlights behind you during the slow speed phase.

pcar

I have done this a few times..PCH 5am Start North of Malibu and head towards Oxnard

race911

Seller ignorance of the law, or not, I'd at least attempt to get him to pay for your hassle. Meaning having a shop take care of it...........

sdcabrio

I'm not a DMV expert, but I am pretty damn sure it's the sellers problem in CA if the car doesn't pass smog.

That drive cycle stuff is a bitch! I happily don't know on the 993, owning a '95, but it is just plain crazy on my Land Rover.

Good Luck with getting it sorted and on a positive, un-sarcastic note, welcome to 993 ownership.

kjr914

These guys hit your answer on the nose. The seller will be paying for anything that has to be done to get the car to pass smog. Don't pay for a thing!

MarkD

+1
and there is likely nothing wrong with the car other than the battery going dead at some point and the codes never being reset.
The drive cycle is really not that bad and can be done just about anywhere. You just cannot exceed certain RPMs or speed. It does take two cycles...

See post 5 in this thread for the different steps that need to be done: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=35947
Many threads on this here, search on "drive cycle"

OR, as said above... take it to a shop. Have them do it. Send the seller the bill

Martin S.

Westlake...especially if Mike Schatz is the mechanic. He is worlds class! Cant swear if he is there anymore.