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Cooling fan hitting fan housing

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Old 05-14-2009, 10:35 PM
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chris walrod
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Take a heat gun, hair dryer or even a hand held torch and heat the fan portion around the hub. Mag CTE is greater than aluminum, this will certainly help you with the interference fit.

Rubber mallet, support the fan carefully. I dont think a three jaw puller will work in this case, now that the fan is of the alt shaft.
Old 05-14-2009, 10:42 PM
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bpras@msn.com
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If I want to remove the hub, should I use cold instead of heat? Heat would expand both parts making the fit tighter?
Old 05-14-2009, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bpras@msn.com
If I want to remove the hub, should I use cold instead of heat? Heat would expand both parts making the fit tighter?
Ideally you want to heat the fan, freeze the hub. We use freeze spray for these applications on the inner, heat on the outer.
Old 05-14-2009, 11:43 PM
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Robin 993DX
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
Ideally you want to heat the fan, freeze the hub. We use freeze spray for these applications on the inner, heat on the outer.
I thought we just use the good old Irish screw driver. LOL!
Old 05-15-2009, 05:24 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bpras@msn.com
The hub has to be removed from the back side of the fan and I do not see a way to use a puller. I think the hub as to be pressed from the front of the fan and pushed out the back side. See the photos below:
This is what I described with the puller method - fan & fan bearing off the car and on the bench.


Andreas
Old 05-15-2009, 07:11 AM
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Dudley
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Does anyone have a source to the paint/color code of the fan's original finish?

Thanks
Old 05-15-2009, 02:50 PM
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Sonic dB
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wow what a timely post...the same thing happened to me and Im dealing with it now:

a) put new rebuilt alternator in, three weeks ago that I bought from pelican
b) bearing went out 100 miles from home... also took out one of the first pulley halves and belt
c) had mechanic replace bearing, belt and pulley half -- 100 miles from home

d) yesterday, less that 2 weeks later...the new bearing also went!! The fan hit the housing and the car stopped.

e) now, I need a new fan...new bearing (3rd one)...and all signs point to a possible bent alternator shaft as the original problem (or a problem with the fan, but that is less likely)

Pelican will warranty the alternator but not the other parts.... this is one big, damned...expensive situation!!

Anyone know a good source for a new fan? I was just quoted $650 from pelican and hope to get it cheaper.... thx
Old 05-15-2009, 08:44 PM
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Dudley
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Have you checked with Sunset?
Old 05-15-2009, 08:47 PM
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hey Dave...yes I just ordered it from them....with bearing...great price.
Old 05-16-2009, 08:33 PM
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All finished, installed the RS hub and new belts. Does anybody know the tension for the belts when using the Gates Kricket tension tool? Lots of threads about the tool but can't find anything about the correct measurement.
Old 05-16-2009, 09:31 PM
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Per Robin's P-Car.com site:

Belt tension tips from Skip
Porsche part number 000 721 957 40 (and about $40 as I recall) gets you special tool number 9574, the Gates "Krikit" V-Belt Tension Gage (which is probably $10 at an AutoZone near you). Of course, your $500 Porsche factory manual set provides 3 full pages of instructions for using the thing, whereas you only get 1/2 of a Xeroxed page printed in 1981 with it - so I guess we shouldn't complain too much. It's a rudimentary gage about 4" long that measures in both foot/lbs and kgs. Porsche gives their specs in "increments" of the kg scale. Per the manuals, these are the belt specs for both the 993 and the 993 TT: Alternator and fan belts: When fitting new belt: 23-35 increments cold, 28-40 once run for 15 mins/10 miles Checking used belt: 15-23 increments cold, 20-28 at op temp. Adjustment not needed unless below 15/20. A/c belt : 30-35 increments at op temp

http://p-car.com/diy/vbelt/

Also:

http://p-car.com/diy/vbelt/belts.html
Old 05-17-2009, 11:33 PM
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After I installed the all the parts, I took the car for a 20 mile ride and the alternator/fan sensor wheel starts to squeak, oiled the wheel all better. Checked the tension on the belts, re-torqued everything and took the car for a 200 mile ride today. I am getting a faint whine and it is definitely coming from the alternator, not the fan hitting the shroud. I think I have a bearing on the way out.

Frustrating after putting it all back together. It will be much easier taking it apart with the RS hub assembly.

I was really stuck on how to remove the old hub/bearing from the fan with a puller. The trick is to use the puller as a "pusher". I practiced with the old fan first and the hub was really stuck to the fan. The new fan/hub separated with very little pressure. Photos below.
Attached Images   
Old 06-20-2009, 02:44 AM
  #28  
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Im getting ready to do this myself. good timing! I was quoted @$587.00 from Sunset but completely forgot about the RS option. How much was the RS hub and fan?
Old 06-21-2009, 10:57 PM
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The fan was $414.81 (includes a new bearing that you don't need if you are installing the RS pulley) and the pulley was $109.88. Both from Sunset (no affiliation).

PM me if you want to buy a new alternator bearing, I have no use for it after installing the RS pulley.
Old 06-11-2013, 10:18 PM
  #30  
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Old thread bump.

Does anybody knows what torque use the hex bolt that tight the steel belt for the fan shroud hosuing? When replaced the alternator, while spinning the assambly to verify the blades wont' make contact agaisnt the housing, it was doing some contact actually and after loosing a bit the steel belt of the fan shroud housing it stopped. Then I finished assambly all and satrted the car all good. The after warm up I could hear slightly the metal-to-metal noise barely and no constant. I already loose the tension V-belt a bit but still make little contact randomly the fan shroud.

Was thinking to even loosing more the steel belt, perhaps if it's overtighted it could lead to "deform" the fan housing and that could cause the slightly contact?

Last edited by DiegoR; 06-11-2013 at 10:36 PM.


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