Gasser

Buying the correct offset wheel or using the spacer to get the same effect makes no differance to the hub and bearing. It can't tell which you have done once torqued down. The important thing really is, is the spacer properly designed so it does not move around, allows the wheel to be mounted properly and your studs are long enough. They are both equally safe as long as your studs are long enough to get the lug nuts properly installed and torqued.

I also used adaptors on my jeep that are bolted down to the hub seperatly and the wheel bolted to the adaptor seperatly and I always worried about that comming loose since I could not check them. I now have the correct offset wheels to get rid of that type of setup. I think that can work and if you do go the adaptor rout, make sure you use Loc tite on the inner bolts and torque them to spec. After some time has passed check them again with a torque wrench set to slightly less than original torque as to not break loose your lock tite but to check for anything loose.

FWIW

V

Another question on topic:

Assuming you have thick hub-centric spacers with longer studs mounted: I assume it's not a good idea to go back and forth removing/refitting the spacers? Say if you have a set of wheels for the street that is to be used with the spacers and one set for the track to be used without the spacers..

To clarify: I understand that the 0-10mm spacers are no problem to remove/refit but I'm guessing the longer studs makes it pretty much impossible to do the same with thick spacers (15-35mm).

Bill Verburg

spacers always add weight, some more than others and if used the resulting composite structure will never be as stiff as a solid one

as to other issues it depends on why they are used.

If used to correct o/s issues then as long as the net is the same as oem then there is no extra bearing stress or geometry alteration

ex use a 25mm spacer to change a n/b ET65 10 to ET40 for use on an S model, no problem

but if the spacer is used to lower ET, then it raises stresses in bearings and can alter geometry. This is particularly an issue in front where altering scrub radius via ET change will affect steering characteristics

Smiles

Are wheel spacers steel or aluminum? Does anyone know what type? Are they heat treated?

cobalt

Wheel spacers come in varying sizes materials and configurations. You will need to inquire about the specifics with each different manufacturer or supplier.

Pricing can vary considerably.

I have several sets some steel (which I don't use) and the rest are aluminum. Would appear to be machined from billet and anodized clear.

I have a set of tech art 15mm with studs and steel lugs these are both hub-centric and wheel centering. I needed a set of 7mm which are incredibly hard to find for our cars in both Hub-centric and wheel centering. H&R makes them in a hub-centric aluminum design but they are not wheel centering. The only set I was able to find in 7mm that did both were made by Ruf and they were pricey and what I was told was the last set available.

H&R makes different sizes but inquire before you buy. I was originally under the impression that Hub-centric spacers also centered the wheel apparently that is not the case according to H&R.

Make sure you can use the studs you have as I have found that 5mm is pushing the limit of both the studs and the centering collar. The collar measures 7mm on a 964. I also use steel lugs when i use mine but I use them for track use mostly.

TomF

I would agree with many comments above. Hubcentric is paramount- if they are not, you will destroy bearings and suspension components. I would also say that if they are to be used, I am convinced that the only really good way to do it is to have longer studs. The "double" stud routine makes me really nervous, and the factory went with longer studs on the GT3 for a reason...as well as on the 930s...

cobalt

I agree there is a degree of safety the longer studs offer. I have the longer studs also but have successfully used the aluminum spacers with the studs without issue. I have heard of some brands having issues of the studs pulling out but the tech art units seem to be fine after extensive use. I do inspect them regularly and have access to both fluorescent penetrant and X-ray forms of non-destructive testing and after 7k miles on the track I see no evidence of anything.

Although if you don't change your wheels regularly like I do i would recommend at a minimum removing the wheels and giving them a visual inspection not to mention check torque on the lugs.