Rear Seat Defeat
04-27-2009, 08:52 PM
#31
Noodle Jr.
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Cactus, I don't know what exactly you are looking for regarding an RSD, but if you are semi-handy and have some tools, you can make your own for around $150.00 includng carpet.
Here is a link to the one I built for my 87 911 a couple of years ago.
http://http://forums.pelicanparts.co...=331520&page=5
Start on page 5,6,7,10,12 and 15 for photos etc.
Good luck!
Here is a link to the one I built for my 87 911 a couple of years ago.
http://http://forums.pelicanparts.co...=331520&page=5
Start on page 5,6,7,10,12 and 15 for photos etc.
Good luck!
I love the look of the stock unit (without the bars and loops) and that's why I want one so bad!
04-29-2009, 02:22 AM
#35
Why do I feel so left out!
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Not that I can use one 
but just to throw it out there.....
The RSD "doors" are stock porsche parts
They are a LHD and a RHD Glove Box door (lid) and mechanism.
Door problem and injection moulding problem = SOLVED
Simon.
but just to throw it out there.....The RSD "doors" are stock porsche parts
They are a LHD and a RHD Glove Box door (lid) and mechanism.
Door problem and injection moulding problem = SOLVED
Simon.
04-29-2009, 08:18 AM
#36
Race Car
From what I understand those 2 doors and the center piece are around $600.00. It's not an issue of the parts so much as the cost. Are the door part numbers the same as the glovebox doors? The reason I ask is that the glove box doors seem to be bigger and have a curve to them where the RSD doors do not. I may be wrong, but this has been brought up before and I think that was the issue.
Mike
04-29-2009, 08:59 AM
#37
Seared
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PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to "completely" round off bolt heads. Also used to hold metal together for welding and to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to “prolong” the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire, like welding gloves.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Porsche to the ground after you have installed new brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper of your spouse’s SUV.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG PINE 2X4: Used for levering an SUV upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
TWEEZERS: A tool used by your spouse for removing 2X4 pine wood splinters.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool used for lifting an SUV off a jack handle. Can also be used for pulling bumpers off SUVs.
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make square cut ends on 4 ft. long splintered pine 2X4 studs.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 60-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than “light”, its name is somewhat misleading. However, the “trouble” part of its name seems quite appropriate.
PRY BAR: A $5 tool used to crumple $500 worth of metal surrounding a clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HOSE CLAMP: A circular metal band that when tightened enough to stop the hose (that is too short) from leaking…you know the rest!
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer now-a-days is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive chrome trim adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to "completely" round off bolt heads. Also used to hold metal together for welding and to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to “prolong” the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire, like welding gloves.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Porsche to the ground after you have installed new brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper of your spouse’s SUV.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG PINE 2X4: Used for levering an SUV upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
TWEEZERS: A tool used by your spouse for removing 2X4 pine wood splinters.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool used for lifting an SUV off a jack handle. Can also be used for pulling bumpers off SUVs.
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make square cut ends on 4 ft. long splintered pine 2X4 studs.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 60-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than “light”, its name is somewhat misleading. However, the “trouble” part of its name seems quite appropriate.
PRY BAR: A $5 tool used to crumple $500 worth of metal surrounding a clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HOSE CLAMP: A circular metal band that when tightened enough to stop the hose (that is too short) from leaking…you know the rest!
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer now-a-days is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive chrome trim adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
Andreas
04-29-2009, 10:32 AM
#38
Drifting
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I really like the idea of this lightweight aluminum RSD:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=302148
This seems to be the ultimate solution: It's very clean (looks oem), easy install/remove, easy access (hinge on top instead of from the side), saves lot's of space, very lightweight, extremely durable. Sure it's pricey at around 600usd but a very nice piece and probably not too hard to fabricate. I would only add one or two bars up front to keep luggage on top of the shelf from ending up in your lap during spirited driving.
Thoughts?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=302148
This seems to be the ultimate solution: It's very clean (looks oem), easy install/remove, easy access (hinge on top instead of from the side), saves lot's of space, very lightweight, extremely durable. Sure it's pricey at around 600usd but a very nice piece and probably not too hard to fabricate. I would only add one or two bars up front to keep luggage on top of the shelf from ending up in your lap during spirited driving.
Thoughts?
04-29-2009, 10:53 AM
#39
Seared
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I really like the idea of this lightweight aluminum RSD:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=302148
This seems to be the ultimate solution: It's very clean (looks oem), easy install/remove, easy access (hinge on top instead of from the side), saves lot's of space, very lightweight, extremely durable. Sure it's pricey at around 600usd but a very nice piece and probably not too hard to fabricate. I would only add one or two bars up front to keep luggage on top of the shelf from ending up in your lap during spirited driving.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=302148
This seems to be the ultimate solution: It's very clean (looks oem), easy install/remove, easy access (hinge on top instead of from the side), saves lot's of space, very lightweight, extremely durable. Sure it's pricey at around 600usd but a very nice piece and probably not too hard to fabricate. I would only add one or two bars up front to keep luggage on top of the shelf from ending up in your lap during spirited driving.
Andreas
04-29-2009, 01:26 PM
#40
The glovebox doors could probably be modified to use as RSD doors but the door support mechanism is more complicated and you'd have to modify the closing latch as well as modify the RSD lines to follow that of the doors.
Last edited by David in LA; 04-29-2009 at 01:50 PM.
04-29-2009, 04:18 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
David In LA beat me to it with an elegant explanation - unfortunately the RSD doors are NOT the same as glove box doors 
That aluminum RSD does seem like an interesting solution. The questions raised on that thread are good, especially about the stability of any weight placed on top of that wide expanse of seemingly unsupported aluminum.
Also, 993/ 964 owners be aware - the early 911 rear seat area is a different size! This creation will NOT fit in our cars any better than the OEM RSD from that era.
That aluminum RSD does seem like an interesting solution. The questions raised on that thread are good, especially about the stability of any weight placed on top of that wide expanse of seemingly unsupported aluminum.
Also, 993/ 964 owners be aware - the early 911 rear seat area is a different size! This creation will NOT fit in our cars any better than the OEM RSD from that era.
04-29-2009, 04:30 PM
#42
Drifting
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Russ, I was more supporting the idea of the aluminum RSD rather the specific item in that thread (which is not for a 993). Apparently the aluminum somehow needs to be connected to the chassis. How that is done I dont know, but I think it's a great idea. The whole piece basiclly consist of only three pieces, the top shelf, the side(front) piece and the hinge/latch. Can't be too difficult to make? Then some 3M spray adhesive and carpet from Gahh or alike. I would weld the two pieces together and make sure to use aluminum thick enough to provide stability for items on top. Or even some kind of additional support from underneath..? And then the bars up front..
04-29-2009, 04:42 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Viggo - No problem! It looks from the pictures that the new pieces are "welded" into place during a complete interior re-do.
As a thread hijack, is your new avatar your imported 993TT? If so, sweet!
On futher exploration of the threads from Pelican, the repro 911 RSD are $750!!! Aluminum is $600 plus $150 silverknit covered, the OEM appearing are $749.99.
Cactus - are you sure you couldn't have loosened your wallet for that last $200?
As a thread hijack, is your new avatar your imported 993TT? If so, sweet!
On futher exploration of the threads from Pelican, the repro 911 RSD are $750!!! Aluminum is $600 plus $150 silverknit covered, the OEM appearing are $749.99.
Cactus - are you sure you couldn't have loosened your wallet for that last $200?
04-29-2009, 09:13 PM
#44
Why do I feel so left out!
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Mike and Others,
I apologise and stand corrected.
Whilst I am happy to stand corrected - couldn't "WE" use glove box doors and make them fit?
If "WE" are going to build "our" version of a RSD - couldnt "WE" make them fit?
Just a thought
Simon.
I apologise and stand corrected.
Whilst I am happy to stand corrected - couldn't "WE" use glove box doors and make them fit?
If "WE" are going to build "our" version of a RSD - couldnt "WE" make them fit?
Just a thought
Simon.
04-29-2009, 09:14 PM
#45
Seared
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Andreas