Sanding surflex
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sanding surflex
Hey Guys,
So I just got done applying Surflex to my seats with a foam brush. The brush strokes are pretty obvious and I was wondering if anyone has had luck sanding surflex with a high grit (2000+) sand paper after application. I think this may smooth out the brush strokes but I wanted to see if anyone had experience. If anyone is thinking about doing a re-dye... SPRAY... you will end up with brush strokes otherwise. I refinished the seats to hold me over until I get save some $$ for 996 sport seats otherwise I would be pretty disappointed with the way they came out.
Regards,
Kevin
So I just got done applying Surflex to my seats with a foam brush. The brush strokes are pretty obvious and I was wondering if anyone has had luck sanding surflex with a high grit (2000+) sand paper after application. I think this may smooth out the brush strokes but I wanted to see if anyone had experience. If anyone is thinking about doing a re-dye... SPRAY... you will end up with brush strokes otherwise. I refinished the seats to hold me over until I get save some $$ for 996 sport seats otherwise I would be pretty disappointed with the way they came out.
Regards,
Kevin
#2
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Kmassed" I had a similar problem, using paper towels (too globby), cheap brush (strokes visible}, and finally spray dye: http://www.worlduph.com/porsche9.htm "We can now supply matching leather or vinyl dye in spray cans for all Porsche colors. #000-9409 $18.00, 12oz".
The spray-job was good enough that, when I sold the seats, the buyer asked if the seats had ever been used. However, I did a redye on the shift boot using an expensive brush and the strokes were not apparent. If your seats are black, I'd re-do the prep (clean and sand) and then use the spray. I can't attest to non-black colors. i tried three different blues, non of which matched the OEM midnight blue. Suflex matched the blue spot-on.
The spray-job was good enough that, when I sold the seats, the buyer asked if the seats had ever been used. However, I did a redye on the shift boot using an expensive brush and the strokes were not apparent. If your seats are black, I'd re-do the prep (clean and sand) and then use the spray. I can't attest to non-black colors. i tried three different blues, non of which matched the OEM midnight blue. Suflex matched the blue spot-on.
#3
Rennlist Member
Actually, you can use a brush and not get brush strokes... depends on the brush used and how.
Spraying is better.
Anyhow, 0000 steel wool used lightly works well to buff them out a bit.
Spraying is better.
Anyhow, 0000 steel wool used lightly works well to buff them out a bit.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cotton *****? hmm... Didn't think of that, did you get any stroke marks with that? How did you prevent the cotton fibers from sticking in the surflex? I did my carbon steering wheel last weekend and it came out awesome, I think its just that the seat surfaces are so flat vs. grained with the steering wheel. So at this point what would you suggest seeing that I already applied a couple of coats? Thanks.
Kevin
Kevin
#6
So is the general consensus that seats are best served by spraying? My question is - how long of a project is it? Do you have to take the seats out? I would guess spraying would necessitate taking the seats out, but other application methods may not.
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#8
Burning Brakes
None
The cotton ***** would hold together initially once I got the hang of it I would grab another cotton ball before it had a change to fall apart.
The cotton ***** would hold together initially once I got the hang of it I would grab another cotton ball before it had a change to fall apart.
#9
Nordschleife Master
Foam brushes don't work. You can get a fine horse hair brush & use X strokes. I would just put another coat on them with a new brush & the lines should go away.