e9stibi

To the bass speaker mount: I do not exactly know if it fits directly into the opening but I did not want to drill any holes. I wanted to use the factory mounting holes for the Nokia box which made me using the bracket. It is very easy to fabricate with plywood and jig saw and takes the x-over, too. You can take the measurements directly from the door.

To the rear speakers: I have a cabriolet and already replaced the rear speakers some while ago with Helix Blue Coax speakers.

zone5

e9stibi --

Let us know when you have made an assessment of the sound comparison to the stock setup, I'm very interested to hear your impressions.

Edward

Ohhh, great thread ...thanks for doing this!

I have replaced the speakers (minus tweeter) and I like the results: check. I have replaced the headunit when my OE "HiFi" Alpine died: check! And I created my own cable adaptor so that the two pairs of RCA outputs from my headunit plug right into the factory harness so that I could use the factory amp.

OK, so now my question as I do not want to run new cable from the headunit to the seat: what amp can I use as a direct replacement for the factory Nokia? I literally want to unplug and replace with an amp with more grunt (clean wattage, of course). Any specific models to shop for would be hugely appreciated! Thanks!!!

Edward

e9stibi

@zone5: The sound is very good and much better than factory hifi system. I did not play around with amp settings but it was great out of the box: Much deeper bass with the 6.5" woofers and much more "punch". Obviously, it sounds much cleaner when you go louder which is not my main objective of the upgrade. However, if you need loud it is much more capable of doing it.

@Edward: I think you need a 4 channel amp and there is one from Soundstream Stealth series that should have the same dimensions that I used (STL4.500). This will fit from my experience but there will be other options.

Edward

Thanks! So I haven't looked under the seat ...what are the inputs into the the existing HiFi Nokia? I would assume that 2 pairs of RCAs into the Nokia would make replacing with any 4-channel amp of similar dimensions a breeze. My concern is the input into the Nokia is a factory molex connector, of which I do not know the pinouts. Could you let me know ...or post a shot of what the Nokia input looks like. Thanks a bunch!!!

Edward

e9stibi

Edward - please read my original posting. It has all the readouts you need if you have an factory optioned car with the 'hifi system'

zone5

e9stibi
The woofers have their own crossover, right? Where did you put it?

e9stibi

The add-on woofers have their on x-over and I put them under the driver seat (mounted on some plywood). After I did the speaker replacement, there should be enough room to fit both crossovers into the doors if you have an hifi optioned car. However, the original speaker cables gave me an option to put them under the seat: For each channel there are dedicated woofer cables (x-over 1 under driver seat) and mid/tweeter cables (x-over 2 in the door) at the main plug that connects to the factory nokia amp.

Sound is great. If I crank up a little bit and idle in front of a traffic light, the glass in the outside mirrors is shaking with the beat of the bass ... Panel vibration is not too bad at high volumes but I might through in some Dynamat Extreme tomorrow.

Edward

Excellent and timely thread! Thanks for sharing all you've learned!!

Edward

V

shu, great setup, looks really neat! Does focal have any full-range speakers (e.g the speakers you have + the tweeters as one unit) that fits in the stock housing? (or looks stock like yours?)

Maybe a bit OT but I purchased the Becker Traffic Pro head unit from this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ighlight=cable

Maybe a stuid question but does anyone know if this unit has a built in amp? Obviously there are far better choices out there but I really liked the fact that it is OEM Tequipment. I would just like speakers that are better than original and I am wondering if this unit has what it takes to power them.. Thx

Great thread btw!

IsLNdbOi

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but can you give some details on how you bypassed the parking brake video lock?

Thanks.

Warpig

I don't have that HU. But I Googled the model number for a wiring diagram and the one I found says the Light Green wire from the HU goes to the parking brake circuit. Looking at the diagram A included of the parking brake circuit all you should need to do is ground the Light Green (PARKING BRAKE) wire and you should be all set.

Here is the link to the wiring diagram I was looking at.

http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/0...T1937-002A.pdf


Nick

IsLNdbOi

Thanks. I've downloaded that manual from JVC's site already. Just making sure that all I have to do is ground that light green wire.

I've seen posts elsewhere that say JVC's newer HUs look for constant power and ground on the light green wire to bypass the parking brake feature.

Warpig

I have no knowledge of that particular HU or what it's firmware expects as far as constant ground (ie: is it smart enough to know the wire has just been put to constant ground) and therefore not allowing video anyhow. I have heard rumor that some HU's with video have gyros and other internal electronics that can tell if the car is in motion and therefore not allow video. If this was the case I wouldn't see the need for an external control wire. Again, I don't know anything about this HU so ymmv.

Nick