How to install larger speakers?
#1
How to install larger speakers?
One of the tweeter tabs broke on my car over the weekend and that tweeter popped off the door. I was thinking of putting in different speakers already, and this is enough reason for me to do that. Anyone have any solutions on how to put larger tweeters and larger woofers in the door without having to cut the door? I want to do the least amount of touching the car as possible. But I also realize once these go in, there probably will be no reason to take the components out of the door.
I loved these when they were in my last car, and it is sad they have just been sitting around collecting dust.
I loved these when they were in my last car, and it is sad they have just been sitting around collecting dust.
Last edited by travanx; 12-20-2013 at 09:33 PM.
#4
DLS are very nice speakers. =) the crossovers from the install done on my car from the previous owner have the crossovers in the footwell area. so there is plenty of room to put bigger crossovers in there. currently i have Focals.
i just upgraded to my left and right speakers on the home theater and realized I miss having higher quality stuff in the car.
i just upgraded to my left and right speakers on the home theater and realized I miss having higher quality stuff in the car.
#6
If there is no surface mount solution for the tweeter you are going to be cutting metal. Most 6.5" will fit if you just cut the fiberboard panel on the door. A spacer might get you out far enough that you don't.. I've done shaped MDF spacers covered in vinyl in many cars that will give you plenty of depth and may help you avoid drilling extra holes, but I don't think they will look very good in a 993 with the pocket there.
dave
dave
#7
So just take a hole saw to the door for the tweeters, and drill 4 holes for the screws? I wonder if the door is deep enough there. Not too sure how much i want to do that one.
Do you do spacers for people as work?
Do you do spacers for people as work?
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#8
So just take a hole saw to the door for the tweeters, and drill 4 holes for the screws? I wonder if the door is deep enough there. Not too sure how much i want to do that one.
Do you do spacers for people as work?
Do you do spacers for people as work?
What kind of depth do you have on these speakers? I have 6.5s in my doors just flush mounted and there was room left - I'll look up the mounting depth specs tomorrow.
Only done spacers/boxes 'pro bono' for friends. And the string of crappy cars I've had myself - til my 993 came along...
If you end up needing some kind of spacer you may be able to get some aftermarket black plastic rings that would work. But now that I think about it, you might as well cut up that panel because you're going to be drilling a hole for the tweeter anyway.
dave
#9
I actually did a similar install with a Focal component set. I have the HiFi option. If you have that there is plenty of space. You want to take off the door pocket/speaker grill cover. Under that, there is a black plastic box that hold the midbass and midrange speaker. There are 4 screws that hold it on. Take that off. You will see a hole in the door that would be used for a speaker if this were a non hifi car. I got a piece of 5/8" mdf and cut it in the shape of the black plastic box, including holes for the screws that hold it to the door. On that I mounted the 6.5 mid from the Focal so that it fit into the door hole. On the mdf, above the mid I used a metal plumbing strap (about 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide, 6" long with holes in it) and bent a U-shape piece to mount the tweeter on and screwed it to the MDF. Then screwed the flush mount tweeter housing to that. The crossover can also fit on the MDF if you needed it to. The whole thing is covered when you put the door pocket/speaker grill cover back on (it basically replaces the black plastic hifi box). Dont forget to dampen the inside of the door while you are in there too. Let me know if you want any more specific info, I just finished doing it. - John
#10
JohnG -
What dampening did you use (if Dynamat, which version and how many layers?)?
Where did you put the dampening - on the door itself or on the door covering material)?
Any problem with window operation since dampening?
Did you use to original wiring into the door or did you replace that as well?
Pics alway help!
What dampening did you use (if Dynamat, which version and how many layers?)?
Where did you put the dampening - on the door itself or on the door covering material)?
Any problem with window operation since dampening?
Did you use to original wiring into the door or did you replace that as well?
Pics alway help!
#11
JohnG -
What dampening did you use (if Dynamat, which version and how many layers?)?
Where did you put the dampening - on the door itself or on the door covering material)?
Any problem with window operation since dampening?
Did you use to original wiring into the door or did you replace that as well?
Pics alway help!
What dampening did you use (if Dynamat, which version and how many layers?)?
Where did you put the dampening - on the door itself or on the door covering material)?
Any problem with window operation since dampening?
Did you use to original wiring into the door or did you replace that as well?
Pics alway help!
The cheaper older stuff is the same tar-based stuff that goes on the roof of a house. And it will smell very bad on a hot summer day. I put a small piece of regular Dynamat on my car couple of years ago, and every day in the summer in Dallas the car smelled like tar. I took 2 years for the smell to go away.
#12
I had some stuff from a prior project, not sure what the name was. But the smell-issue makes sense. I put in on the inside of the outer door skin. You want to at least try to get some behind the speaker, but if you have enough, put it on as much of the inside of the door skin as you can reach. It is very thin (1/4" or less) so I had no problems with window operation. I only used 1 layer. Have heard of some people putting it in between the door and the panel, where the plastic membrane is. I guess more is better in terms of dampening, but I didnt do that. I used as much as the original wiring as possible. I'm sure running new wiring would be better, but decided against it since pulling up carpet in that car to hide wires is kindof a pain. I have an aftermarket amp under the passenger seat, so I ran RCAs from the headunit to that and then hooked into the factory speaker wires from there. The factory wires look to be 14g or 16g, so they seemed decent. The car is already back together and I didnt think of taking the pics when it was apart. Anyone can feel free to PM me and I would be happy to talk through it too if that would help.