Solution for soft brake pedal caused by ABS pump
#17
Addict
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I was told about the faulty 95/96 abs pump by a shop when it happened to my car. I took it to another shop and had it flushed. Everything's been fine since (2002).
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M. Schneider (07-02-2020)
#18
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Looks like this thread has been around for a few years now, has anyone used the company BAA-reman for a rebuilb ABS pump that's mentioned in the first post? If so how did it go? I just ran into the same issue on my car and am exploring options. thanks
#19
Arena993 do you mind posting the instructions on this thread?
I found some white deposits at the bleeder valves and since I cannot vouch for the frequency of brake flushes from he previous owner, I would be interested in using your method as preventive maintenance.
Thank You
I found some white deposits at the bleeder valves and since I cannot vouch for the frequency of brake flushes from he previous owner, I would be interested in using your method as preventive maintenance.
Thank You
#20
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Arena993 do you mind posting the instructions on this thread?
I found some white deposits at the bleeder valves and since I cannot vouch for the frequency of brake flushes from he previous owner, I would be interested in using your method as preventive maintenance.
Thank You
I found some white deposits at the bleeder valves and since I cannot vouch for the frequency of brake flushes from he previous owner, I would be interested in using your method as preventive maintenance.
Thank You
#21
993 soft brake
I have a abs system with this problem, can you fix for me ? My car has been in shop provost motor sport in bordentown i would be interested in buying from you or having you clean mine .. can you call me 609-658-1608 Michael
#22
Rennlist Member
If you want to remove soft pedal BECAUSE OF SLUDGE, there are two ways:
Easy way or the patience way
Easy way, get new brake fluid with DOT 3 or DOT4 specifications, and flush the system with two bottles or three with a power bleeder.
With DOT3/4, the pedal will be harder than the DOT5.1+
Patience way if you have a lot of SLUDGE.
Open your brake fluid reservoir cap, and bleed the system empty through each caliper nipples.
Get 1 liter of isopropyl alcohol, or 70% alcohol that you use at home.
Fill brake reservoir to the top, and bleed one caliper until alcohol arrives.
Refill the reservoir until you do all four calipers filled with alcohol.
Go back to the reservoir and remove the alcohol left.
Fill with DOT3 or 4.
Bleed the first caliper, and refill reservoir
do this for the 4 calipers, refill reservoir if empty.
Do no use car for half an hour.
Now re-bleed the system again with fresh DOT3 or 4 brake fluid.
use car for 100 kilometers, and re-bleed while tapping calipers gently with rubber mallet.
1- why alcohol ? Alcohol dissolves the crystalline sludge as soon as it contacts it.
2- Why not keep alcohol in system for some time? Alcohol dissolves sludge in a fraction of a second, but will start to rust the brake lines if left for more than an hour.
3- Why bleed twice? first time to remove alcohol, second time to keep fresh fluid in car
The following users liked this post:
M. Schneider (07-02-2020)
#24
Mark:
I have a fix for this problem. I have done it 2 times on 2 different cars and has worked perfectly. Nice thing it only costs a little time and a few dollars ($5.00). PM me your number and I'll walk you through it. BTW both cars I did it to had the ABD option w/locking diff. Just FYI.
Mike
I have a fix for this problem. I have done it 2 times on 2 different cars and has worked perfectly. Nice thing it only costs a little time and a few dollars ($5.00). PM me your number and I'll walk you through it. BTW both cars I did it to had the ABD option w/locking diff. Just FYI.
Mike
Is the process to lengthy to post? I'm sure others, such as myself would be interested in what you have to say...
Can we do a mass video teleconference?
Seriously, I am interested too.
EDIT: Sorry, did not realize this was an old post till after replying.
Cheers!
#25
Rennlist Member
Geolab hit it on the head. A customer brought in a 1995 993 with a creeping brake pedal. The isopropyl alcohol flush suggested by Geolab worked nicely. My problem still exists with a slight creep in the brake pedal, but it is far better. When I went to bleed the customers brakes I could hardly get either of the front calipers to bleed from the outer ports. There was a viscous sludge in the brake system. It was not clear brake fluid. It was opaque or yellow-white color in nature I used a rubber mallet and tapped rapidly. It took about 10 minutes per caliper, but they finally cleared out. I bled the brakes two times initially and the rears flowed fine. It was the fronts that were gummed up. I then ran the system dry and added the alcohol. I wouldn't use ethanol as it MAY damage the rubber in the brake system. I used commercially available rubbing alcohol at about $1.50 per liter/quart. I found that 1 liter/quart was enough to fill the system and bleed it. I then emptied the system of the alcohol. I then refilled the brake reservoir with Dot 3 cheap brake fluid and ran a liter through and bled at the bleeder ports and with the pedal. I had a much firmer pedal. Less creep I may see if I can use the KTS300 hammer or durametric to get the abs pump to function and remove any further sludge from the ABS valve body that MAY be allowing further fluid to escape and allow a lessened pedal creep.
#26
Instructor
My solution was to replace the master cylinder. I replaced the ABS pump, bleed so many times, replaced left front wheel bearing. All the classic things. Nothing worked till I bit the bullet and got a new Master cylinder. No soft pedal after that. The hardest part of this was that it was only a year old to begin with. These cars (especially when you convert them into full race cars) just eat Master cylinders.
#27
Posted by Geolab
Why don't you do it yourself ?
If you want to remove soft pedal BECAUSE OF SLUDGE, there are two ways:
Easy way or the patience way
Easy way, get new brake fluid with DOT 3 or DOT4 specifications, and flush the system with two bottles or three with a power bleeder.
With DOT3/4, the pedal will be harder than the DOT5.1+
Patience way if you have a lot of SLUDGE.
Open your brake fluid reservoir cap, and bleed the system empty through each caliper nipples.
Get 1 liter of isopropyl alcohol, or 70% alcohol that you use at home.
Fill brake reservoir to the top, and bleed one caliper until alcohol arrives.
Refill the reservoir until you do all four calipers filled with alcohol.
Go back to the reservoir and remove the alcohol left.
Fill with DOT3 or 4.
Bleed the first caliper, and refill reservoir
do this for the 4 calipers, refill reservoir if empty.
Do no use car for half an hour.
Now re-bleed the system again with fresh DOT3 or 4 brake fluid.
use car for 100 kilometers, and re-bleed while tapping calipers gently with rubber mallet.
1- why alcohol ? Alcohol dissolves the crystalline sludge as soon as it contacts it.
2- Why not keep alcohol in system for some time? Alcohol dissolves sludge in a fraction of a second, but will start to rust the brake lines if left for more than an hour.
3- Why bleed twice? first time to remove alcohol, second time to keep fresh fluid in car
Geolab,
To do a complete bleed of the system, would one also want to bleed or cycle the ABS and ABD systems, if applicable to the vehicle?
TIA.
Why don't you do it yourself ?
If you want to remove soft pedal BECAUSE OF SLUDGE, there are two ways:
Easy way or the patience way
Easy way, get new brake fluid with DOT 3 or DOT4 specifications, and flush the system with two bottles or three with a power bleeder.
With DOT3/4, the pedal will be harder than the DOT5.1+
Patience way if you have a lot of SLUDGE.
Open your brake fluid reservoir cap, and bleed the system empty through each caliper nipples.
Get 1 liter of isopropyl alcohol, or 70% alcohol that you use at home.
Fill brake reservoir to the top, and bleed one caliper until alcohol arrives.
Refill the reservoir until you do all four calipers filled with alcohol.
Go back to the reservoir and remove the alcohol left.
Fill with DOT3 or 4.
Bleed the first caliper, and refill reservoir
do this for the 4 calipers, refill reservoir if empty.
Do no use car for half an hour.
Now re-bleed the system again with fresh DOT3 or 4 brake fluid.
use car for 100 kilometers, and re-bleed while tapping calipers gently with rubber mallet.
1- why alcohol ? Alcohol dissolves the crystalline sludge as soon as it contacts it.
2- Why not keep alcohol in system for some time? Alcohol dissolves sludge in a fraction of a second, but will start to rust the brake lines if left for more than an hour.
3- Why bleed twice? first time to remove alcohol, second time to keep fresh fluid in car
Geolab,
To do a complete bleed of the system, would one also want to bleed or cycle the ABS and ABD systems, if applicable to the vehicle?
TIA.
Last edited by nine9six; 11-30-2017 at 04:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
M. Schneider (07-02-2020)
#30
In order to completely flush the brake system, one needs to be able to cycle the ABS and ABD in order to evacuate the old brake fluid currently held within the systems; prior to the brake fluid flush.
To the best of my knowledge, there are several Porsche specific diagnostic tools which enable one to exercise the ABS and ABD systems.
1. The Bosch 9288, (Hammer).
2. The PST2, (Bosch KTS 500) or
3. The PIWIS I, (Bosch KTS 650).
4. The PIWIS II, (Bosch KTS 670)
I recently purchased a PIWIS I (KTS 650), which is compatible with the following vehicles.
Cayman, Boxster 986, 911 996, Cayenne, GT1, GT3 996, 928, 968, 944, GT2 996, Carrera GT, 911 997, 911 964 & 993, Boxster 987.
I am offering local (Socal) Rennlisters, (with the above-mentioned compatible vehicles) a very reasonable ($50) diagnostic look into their vehicles; or exercise the ABS/ABD systems, prior to the owners performing a brake and/or clutch slave bleed.
If interested, I can be contacted via PM.
Porsche Diagnostic Tester Information:
Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System (PIWIS) scan tool works with the latest and legacy Porsche vehicles, it's equipped with a Panasonic Toughbook laptop.
Overview & History
The PIWIS I, was actually a Bosch/Vetronix KTS-650. Prior to that the Porsche PST2 which was introduced in 1997 and ended in 2005 was actually a Bosch Diagnostics KTS-500, however the PST2 was slightly altered and colored differently than the KTS-500.
Preceding the PST2 was the Porsche 9288/Bosch KTS-300/301 (aka "Hammer" or "Pocket System Tester") works on cars to 1995 but doesn't do everything. The PST2 is backward applicable to OBDI but doesn't do some AC and Airbag issues on early cars covered by KTS-300/301. The PIWIS should eliminate the need for a PST2 but one may still need the KTS-300/301 for the earliest applications.
My best
To the best of my knowledge, there are several Porsche specific diagnostic tools which enable one to exercise the ABS and ABD systems.
1. The Bosch 9288, (Hammer).
2. The PST2, (Bosch KTS 500) or
3. The PIWIS I, (Bosch KTS 650).
4. The PIWIS II, (Bosch KTS 670)
I recently purchased a PIWIS I (KTS 650), which is compatible with the following vehicles.
Cayman, Boxster 986, 911 996, Cayenne, GT1, GT3 996, 928, 968, 944, GT2 996, Carrera GT, 911 997, 911 964 & 993, Boxster 987.
I am offering local (Socal) Rennlisters, (with the above-mentioned compatible vehicles) a very reasonable ($50) diagnostic look into their vehicles; or exercise the ABS/ABD systems, prior to the owners performing a brake and/or clutch slave bleed.
If interested, I can be contacted via PM.
Porsche Diagnostic Tester Information:
Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System (PIWIS) scan tool works with the latest and legacy Porsche vehicles, it's equipped with a Panasonic Toughbook laptop.
Overview & History
The PIWIS I, was actually a Bosch/Vetronix KTS-650. Prior to that the Porsche PST2 which was introduced in 1997 and ended in 2005 was actually a Bosch Diagnostics KTS-500, however the PST2 was slightly altered and colored differently than the KTS-500.
Preceding the PST2 was the Porsche 9288/Bosch KTS-300/301 (aka "Hammer" or "Pocket System Tester") works on cars to 1995 but doesn't do everything. The PST2 is backward applicable to OBDI but doesn't do some AC and Airbag issues on early cars covered by KTS-300/301. The PIWIS should eliminate the need for a PST2 but one may still need the KTS-300/301 for the earliest applications.
My best
Last edited by nine9six; 08-18-2018 at 06:03 PM.