Woes in Philly
02-07-2009, 01:10 AM
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Woes in Philly
I don't even know where to begin and apologize for what will be a lengthy post, but aside from my rabbi, I have nowhere else to turn to where folks will understand my issues.
As many of you know I purchased a 97 about a week and a half ago after months of looking and failed deals. I could not go down to see the car in Fla. and so spoke with and relied on the PO's information and the results of a partial PPI to make my decision. I was told the car had been owned by a family that owned planes and maintained the car to the same high calibre.
The mechanic was the same guy who took care of the car through three past owners (more than eight years) and so I felt confident he knew the car and the candor with which he spoke seemed to indicate he was more concerned with being honest than just being a tool to further the sale for the owner. He also has a good reputation (as far as I could ascertain). The PO described the car as pristine; it was far from that upon arrival, but I figured I would have to do a few things to it in the short run for many years of enjoyment in the bigger picture. The mechanic said it needed to be detailed (but didn't mention that the sunroof gaskets had gone the way of the buffalo, a headlight needed a bulb and the rear right tire arrived off the carrier in almost flat condition). Not a great way to start a relationship. Oh yes; there was no spare tire and I was promised that one would be shipped to me this week. Of course it did not arrive! This, by the way was an ebay sale, just for the record.
I wanted to go with a full PPI but the mechanic said the car pulled strong in every gear and I find this to be true, so he concentrated on a 35 point check list instead of the usual full-tilt-boogie. The most important info he gave was that I would need to replace a tire, windshield wipers and at some point the right side valve cover gasket needs to be replaced because it was "weeping" as many of these cars do...especially after 100k on the clock. He said this was a good car that he himself would not hesitate to buy were he in my position.
Some of you might have read my posting about the cloud of smoke a few days ago which I thought was related to a 3/4 quart overfill. The smoking has not gone away. More on that later. Here's where the story take a turn.
I needed to have the car inspected and took it to my mechanic of 30 years to have it done. When the inspection mechanic got past checking the gas cap pressure, he asked me to turn the key fully on without engaging the starter. He noted the check engine light was out and said this was abnormal. The light should come on briefly as most of you know. He said either the bulb was dead or removed. It took me a bit of struggling to remove the gauge and lo and behold, someone had removed the bulb to prevent me from seeing that the check engine light was on! We found a bulb that fit and sure enough that was the case. At this point I was livid that not only had someone practiced deceit, but the guy I paid to honestly represent the condition of the car had not noticed this. Of course I failed inspection.
My mechanic then connected the computer to the car and although he does not have the "hammer' the readout said that I was misfiring on five of the six cylinders but couldn't be more specific as to the cause. My local independent Porsche mechanic cannot make room for me for at least a week, so the car will sit in the garage as the most expensive radio I ever purchased. Does anyone have an idea what I'm looking at in terms of repair based on the sketchy details I've provided about the 300 level error codes?
Ok. At this point I'm ready to shred my wrist except I think about how much it will cost my family if I don't actually die but linger. malinger etc so I chill a bit. My mechanic says we should look at the bottom of the car to see if we can make some sense of the smoke/oil issue, since I'm not going to get a sticker from them today at least I'll might be able to get to the bottom of this . We pull the engine pan down and a torrent of oil cascades onto the garage floor. He tells me there is no way my "overfill' was responsible for this quantity of fluid. He used three cans of solvent (brake cleaner) and hosed off as much as would come rendering the engine much cleaner. Upon inspection, all he could say was that it would indeed appear the right valve cover gasket must be failing and is spewing oil under pressure , and that is why I'm getting the smoke and why there is so much oil in the engine compartment. He noted that it is interesting that the "overfill" and the production of the smoke seemed simultaneous but that 3/4 of a quart should not have caused the situation. We put the pan back and he sent me on my way with my head slug low between my knees. I will of course, have to wait for my independent to find a slot for me, and not drive the car because it is not inspected until that time.
What do you all think I'm looking at in terms of repair cost to resolve the CEL issue? It would seem the valve cover gaskets are a labor intensive item as the gaskets themselves are cheap, but if it needs to be done, I'm ok with that. What scares me is the check engine issue. My guys say it could be ignition wires, and or distributor caps or injectors (worse) or something they are not familiar with. Any wisdom out there to help me brace myself for the onslaught?
I tried to be careful and prudent in my purchase and trusted the mechanic in Fla. to conduct a proper inspection. It would appear that although latin is dead as a spoken language; let the buyer beware is still alive and kicking as an axiom. I know a PPI is not a guarantee and that of course the purchase is for a car in "as-is condition. Do I have any other recourse that any of you can see? Maybe I will have to do what my regular mechanic says; "You bought this car, now suck it up!"
I appreciate any feedback.
Regards
Signed Bernie on his third scotch!
As many of you know I purchased a 97 about a week and a half ago after months of looking and failed deals. I could not go down to see the car in Fla. and so spoke with and relied on the PO's information and the results of a partial PPI to make my decision. I was told the car had been owned by a family that owned planes and maintained the car to the same high calibre.
The mechanic was the same guy who took care of the car through three past owners (more than eight years) and so I felt confident he knew the car and the candor with which he spoke seemed to indicate he was more concerned with being honest than just being a tool to further the sale for the owner. He also has a good reputation (as far as I could ascertain). The PO described the car as pristine; it was far from that upon arrival, but I figured I would have to do a few things to it in the short run for many years of enjoyment in the bigger picture. The mechanic said it needed to be detailed (but didn't mention that the sunroof gaskets had gone the way of the buffalo, a headlight needed a bulb and the rear right tire arrived off the carrier in almost flat condition). Not a great way to start a relationship. Oh yes; there was no spare tire and I was promised that one would be shipped to me this week. Of course it did not arrive! This, by the way was an ebay sale, just for the record.
I wanted to go with a full PPI but the mechanic said the car pulled strong in every gear and I find this to be true, so he concentrated on a 35 point check list instead of the usual full-tilt-boogie. The most important info he gave was that I would need to replace a tire, windshield wipers and at some point the right side valve cover gasket needs to be replaced because it was "weeping" as many of these cars do...especially after 100k on the clock. He said this was a good car that he himself would not hesitate to buy were he in my position.
Some of you might have read my posting about the cloud of smoke a few days ago which I thought was related to a 3/4 quart overfill. The smoking has not gone away. More on that later. Here's where the story take a turn.
I needed to have the car inspected and took it to my mechanic of 30 years to have it done. When the inspection mechanic got past checking the gas cap pressure, he asked me to turn the key fully on without engaging the starter. He noted the check engine light was out and said this was abnormal. The light should come on briefly as most of you know. He said either the bulb was dead or removed. It took me a bit of struggling to remove the gauge and lo and behold, someone had removed the bulb to prevent me from seeing that the check engine light was on! We found a bulb that fit and sure enough that was the case. At this point I was livid that not only had someone practiced deceit, but the guy I paid to honestly represent the condition of the car had not noticed this. Of course I failed inspection.
My mechanic then connected the computer to the car and although he does not have the "hammer' the readout said that I was misfiring on five of the six cylinders but couldn't be more specific as to the cause. My local independent Porsche mechanic cannot make room for me for at least a week, so the car will sit in the garage as the most expensive radio I ever purchased. Does anyone have an idea what I'm looking at in terms of repair based on the sketchy details I've provided about the 300 level error codes?
Ok. At this point I'm ready to shred my wrist except I think about how much it will cost my family if I don't actually die but linger. malinger etc so I chill a bit. My mechanic says we should look at the bottom of the car to see if we can make some sense of the smoke/oil issue, since I'm not going to get a sticker from them today at least I'll might be able to get to the bottom of this . We pull the engine pan down and a torrent of oil cascades onto the garage floor. He tells me there is no way my "overfill' was responsible for this quantity of fluid. He used three cans of solvent (brake cleaner) and hosed off as much as would come rendering the engine much cleaner. Upon inspection, all he could say was that it would indeed appear the right valve cover gasket must be failing and is spewing oil under pressure , and that is why I'm getting the smoke and why there is so much oil in the engine compartment. He noted that it is interesting that the "overfill" and the production of the smoke seemed simultaneous but that 3/4 of a quart should not have caused the situation. We put the pan back and he sent me on my way with my head slug low between my knees. I will of course, have to wait for my independent to find a slot for me, and not drive the car because it is not inspected until that time.
What do you all think I'm looking at in terms of repair cost to resolve the CEL issue? It would seem the valve cover gaskets are a labor intensive item as the gaskets themselves are cheap, but if it needs to be done, I'm ok with that. What scares me is the check engine issue. My guys say it could be ignition wires, and or distributor caps or injectors (worse) or something they are not familiar with. Any wisdom out there to help me brace myself for the onslaught?
I tried to be careful and prudent in my purchase and trusted the mechanic in Fla. to conduct a proper inspection. It would appear that although latin is dead as a spoken language; let the buyer beware is still alive and kicking as an axiom. I know a PPI is not a guarantee and that of course the purchase is for a car in "as-is condition. Do I have any other recourse that any of you can see? Maybe I will have to do what my regular mechanic says; "You bought this car, now suck it up!"
I appreciate any feedback.
Regards
Signed Bernie on his third scotch!
02-07-2009, 01:31 AM
#2
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Arrggghhh, may all unscrupulous sellers rot in hell!!! Been there and it's the worst feeling. I feel for you.
Check Ebay, depending on how long ago the transaction was done (ie less than 30 days) you have protection under their Vehicle Protection.
VPP Policy
#7 The vehicle had undisclosed engine, body, transmission, and/or frame damage at the time of purchase that will cost more than $1,000 to repair. The cost of repair to any one of those components must exceed $1,000. For vehicles in the Boats (engine and hull only), Buses, Commercial Trucks, and RVs & Campers categories, the cost of the undisclosed engine, body, transmission, or frame damage must exceed $1,500. Race Cars are not eligible for this protection.
Check Ebay, depending on how long ago the transaction was done (ie less than 30 days) you have protection under their Vehicle Protection.
VPP Policy
#7 The vehicle had undisclosed engine, body, transmission, and/or frame damage at the time of purchase that will cost more than $1,000 to repair. The cost of repair to any one of those components must exceed $1,000. For vehicles in the Boats (engine and hull only), Buses, Commercial Trucks, and RVs & Campers categories, the cost of the undisclosed engine, body, transmission, or frame damage must exceed $1,500. Race Cars are not eligible for this protection.
02-07-2009, 01:36 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
I really wish I could help you but I am not mechanically inclined. I have posted in the past regarding minor issues and waited with baited breath for responses which seemed to take forever (but RL was there). There are lots of knowlegeable people who will chime in.
02-07-2009, 01:41 AM
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Not happy to read your troubles.
The v/c gasket replacement shouldnt be more than a few hours labor. This is quite common. Have your wrench check the upper v/c gaskets as well, these cars are getting old enough now where the uppers tend to dry up and get very brittle.
For the misfire, since its most cylinders, I would first check that std Porsche alt and fan belts are in place. If so, you may need to dig deeper into the DMF. How is the clutch operation? Smooth pedal? Low friction point? Quiet? Do you have any repair history related to the clutch and flywheel?
Once you have these issues sorted, I am sure you will enjoy the car for many many miles!
The v/c gasket replacement shouldnt be more than a few hours labor. This is quite common. Have your wrench check the upper v/c gaskets as well, these cars are getting old enough now where the uppers tend to dry up and get very brittle.
For the misfire, since its most cylinders, I would first check that std Porsche alt and fan belts are in place. If so, you may need to dig deeper into the DMF. How is the clutch operation? Smooth pedal? Low friction point? Quiet? Do you have any repair history related to the clutch and flywheel?
Once you have these issues sorted, I am sure you will enjoy the car for many many miles!
02-07-2009, 01:59 AM
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Where to begin, first lets hope things are not that bad. A mistake was using the sellers mechanic, he is on their team. Considering it is a 100k plus car from Florida it can't be perfect. The sunroof seal may be a normal wear item in Florida (I don't know). A 12 year old 100k car from Florida can't be perfect. So if you need a sunroof seal and a valve cover gasket that is not so bad.
But there is the check engine light, that was fraud. I would contact the seller and the mechanic alerting them to the fraud and your desire to be satisfied by them covering the cost of that repair. If that fails contact authorities, however you won't see any money that way. So work the seller and mechanic hard for some cash, but not a refund. A refund would be too hard for them to agree to, but finding a few bucks to keep the law away from their door might seem like a good idea and deal.
As for the codes, maybe the car needs new oxygen senors, or cats , still not the end of the world. Consider used cats if needed.
Worst case would be the top end of the engine needs rebuilding. That would cost about $7000. Time for some tough decisions, sell it needing repairs or fix it. good luck.
But there is the check engine light, that was fraud. I would contact the seller and the mechanic alerting them to the fraud and your desire to be satisfied by them covering the cost of that repair. If that fails contact authorities, however you won't see any money that way. So work the seller and mechanic hard for some cash, but not a refund. A refund would be too hard for them to agree to, but finding a few bucks to keep the law away from their door might seem like a good idea and deal.
As for the codes, maybe the car needs new oxygen senors, or cats , still not the end of the world. Consider used cats if needed.
Worst case would be the top end of the engine needs rebuilding. That would cost about $7000. Time for some tough decisions, sell it needing repairs or fix it. good luck.
02-07-2009, 02:03 AM
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Bernie, I'm really sorry to hear this. However, I would not worry yet at this point. The car doesn't seem to exhibit any horrible behavior other than smoke, correct?
Let's examine things rationally here:
1. First things first. I would reset CEL and associated codes. See if it comes back. Now, there's a bit of Catch 22 here. Codes will not be ready for reading after the reset. You need to drive for a while to get the codes set. But you can't drive without sticker. Do you guys have "Rejected" stickers in PA like we do in MA?
2. Oil leak. No bid deal. Not at all. I think all of us had replaced the lower head gaskets. The gasket costs $17 and takes about 1 hour per side (less, in reality). They all leak sooner or later and oil drips directly onto heat exchangers, creating a very realistic effect of small fire (ask the people on the Strip in Vegas that looked at me really funny on my maiden drive home after I bought the car). This is accompanied by burning oil smell, a cloud of smoke coming out of rear wheel well(s), etc.
3. I would be pretty upset at whoever removed CEL bulb. This is borderline fraud and I'm sure it's illegal to remove emissions equipment from the car. There might be a federal law on this - something I would hold over the PO's and his mechanics' heads while talking about possible retributions and partial refunds.
4. Take out and get rid of the lower engine cover. Don't ask why, lest it causes another religious war here that would rival both 1914 and 1945. just do it. That way you can at least lift the car and see what's going on.
Filling 993 with the last quart of oil is a royal pain in the tuhes. It takes oil _reallly_ slow and if you are not used to it, you'll spill most of it. Which will pool and slowly leak onto hot parts for weeks if not cleaned. Don't ask me how I know.
PS. BTW, you can call me tomorrow, I'll talk you off the ledge a bit
Shabbat Shalom in the meantime. Is scotch kosher? I think it is.
Let's examine things rationally here:
1. First things first. I would reset CEL and associated codes. See if it comes back. Now, there's a bit of Catch 22 here. Codes will not be ready for reading after the reset. You need to drive for a while to get the codes set. But you can't drive without sticker. Do you guys have "Rejected" stickers in PA like we do in MA?
2. Oil leak. No bid deal. Not at all. I think all of us had replaced the lower head gaskets. The gasket costs $17 and takes about 1 hour per side (less, in reality). They all leak sooner or later and oil drips directly onto heat exchangers, creating a very realistic effect of small fire (ask the people on the Strip in Vegas that looked at me really funny on my maiden drive home after I bought the car). This is accompanied by burning oil smell, a cloud of smoke coming out of rear wheel well(s), etc.
3. I would be pretty upset at whoever removed CEL bulb. This is borderline fraud and I'm sure it's illegal to remove emissions equipment from the car. There might be a federal law on this - something I would hold over the PO's and his mechanics' heads while talking about possible retributions and partial refunds.
4. Take out and get rid of the lower engine cover. Don't ask why, lest it causes another religious war here that would rival both 1914 and 1945. just do it. That way you can at least lift the car and see what's going on.
Filling 993 with the last quart of oil is a royal pain in the tuhes. It takes oil _reallly_ slow and if you are not used to it, you'll spill most of it. Which will pool and slowly leak onto hot parts for weeks if not cleaned. Don't ask me how I know.
PS. BTW, you can call me tomorrow, I'll talk you off the ledge a bit
Shabbat Shalom in the meantime. Is scotch kosher? I think it is.
02-07-2009, 02:05 AM
#7
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It's clearly a little late to use the condition of the car as a negotiating point. Keep in mind that it is north of 100,000 miles so some wear is to be expected. Also, there will always be issues on a car sale of this type. There are no flawless 100,000 mile cars,--not usually.
Try and remain positive on the whole. You have yourself a 993 and there are many positive things about it. Now just work off the disconnects and get it sorted out. When you are done you will have it fully sorted out and know a hell of a lot more about a 993 than one you bought that was completely flawless.
Hang in there. Now,--go pour yourself another Scotch and tell yourself,--"I still have a pretty sweet 993!"
Try and remain positive on the whole. You have yourself a 993 and there are many positive things about it. Now just work off the disconnects and get it sorted out. When you are done you will have it fully sorted out and know a hell of a lot more about a 993 than one you bought that was completely flawless.
Hang in there. Now,--go pour yourself another Scotch and tell yourself,--"I still have a pretty sweet 993!"
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02-07-2009, 02:26 AM
#8
Instructor
I can't offer any mechanical advice but you got that covered with your regular guy up there anyway. Regarding the shenanigans the seller pulled, I am sorry to hear that. Maybe the costs to make it right will be on the low end for you. I've bought five cars on eBay and was pretty lucky four times. An Alfa which was described ad nauseum as excellent- this was this guy's favorite expression- was only pretty good.
02-07-2009, 03:33 AM
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Thanks to all for the cyber handkerchiefs! I am indeed in a world of woe, as we used to say in the Navy. The PO asked me not to pay him through ebay or paypal because it would cost him and he really needed the bulk of the money to salvage his business, so I sent a bank draft/wire transfer. It would seem at this juncture he asked for that so he could escape the ramifications for a lack of candor and robbed me of the protection I would have had if I had done it through them (ebay/paypal). Don't know if this invalidates the conditions of the sale via ebay but will certainly look more closely at it as I seem to be the recipient of a metal object thrust into my rear end at high costs to me.
There is little doubt, in my mind, that the resulting figures will top $1k (although I'm waiting for an appointment with the IM). Had this been revealed, I would at least have had some notation things needed to be dealt with and would have negotiated for a lower price. The representation was that the car was in pristine condition. Is this worth fighting? It appears like the seller or his agents engaged in deliberate deceptionary actions to make this unknown to me until the deal was sealed. If the bulb was there but burnt out, that is very different from it having been removed. The problem is how to tie either action to seller/mechanic. Given what seems to be their displayed nature, I can say that their defense is the "He said, She said" variety and would be hard to pin down the culpable entity without dollars out of my pocket with no guarantee that I would come out ahead. Yet, I'm furious!. I hate liars!!! Can I say that ?
There is little doubt, in my mind, that the resulting figures will top $1k (although I'm waiting for an appointment with the IM). Had this been revealed, I would at least have had some notation things needed to be dealt with and would have negotiated for a lower price. The representation was that the car was in pristine condition. Is this worth fighting? It appears like the seller or his agents engaged in deliberate deceptionary actions to make this unknown to me until the deal was sealed. If the bulb was there but burnt out, that is very different from it having been removed. The problem is how to tie either action to seller/mechanic. Given what seems to be their displayed nature, I can say that their defense is the "He said, She said" variety and would be hard to pin down the culpable entity without dollars out of my pocket with no guarantee that I would come out ahead. Yet, I'm furious!. I hate liars!!! Can I say that ?
02-07-2009, 04:03 AM
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Few more thoughts here:
- I'd figure out what is currently wrong, if anything. I have a feeling that it will not be serious. I see possible gasket replacing. If the car runs fine otherwise, I'd reset CEL and not worry about things.
- If you bought throught eBay, it should not matter how you've paid. PayPal will only protect you for the amount you've paid through PayPal, if any, but eBay might offer some of its own protection (not likely much, though).
- I would find out if there are any annual inspections in FL. If there are, whoever did the inspection os in a wortld of hurt, since there's no way they could read OBD2 and pass the car.
But first and foremost, I'd let the PO know that there is a problem with missing CEL bulb and ask him WTF. And wait for the diagnostic on the oil.
- I'd figure out what is currently wrong, if anything. I have a feeling that it will not be serious. I see possible gasket replacing. If the car runs fine otherwise, I'd reset CEL and not worry about things.
- If you bought throught eBay, it should not matter how you've paid. PayPal will only protect you for the amount you've paid through PayPal, if any, but eBay might offer some of its own protection (not likely much, though).
- I would find out if there are any annual inspections in FL. If there are, whoever did the inspection os in a wortld of hurt, since there's no way they could read OBD2 and pass the car.
But first and foremost, I'd let the PO know that there is a problem with missing CEL bulb and ask him WTF. And wait for the diagnostic on the oil.
02-07-2009, 05:33 AM
#11
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Experiences like this one can be very sobering (so another scotch is in order). At the end, you will get the car right.
If I was more comfortable with a wrench, I would look at these repairs as something to sort out over a few weekends. Some enjoyment to that for some of us (not me). Afterall, the 993 is getting up there in age (so am I) and repairs are needed.
Some lessons learned for me from your experience.
(1) Ask this forum for recommendations on where to get a PPI.
(2) Even if you are getting the greatest buy on a 100K miles 993, be prepared for repairs. Some 911 guru once said you will likely spend $2K on virtually any 911 when you get her home. I assume this holds true for 993s.
(3) Do not trust a seller to protect your interests.
At the end, this is something that $$$ can fix.
Lastly, approach the seller and the mechanic with your findings and let them know you plan to seek reimbursement for CEL issue.
If I was more comfortable with a wrench, I would look at these repairs as something to sort out over a few weekends. Some enjoyment to that for some of us (not me). Afterall, the 993 is getting up there in age (so am I) and repairs are needed.
Some lessons learned for me from your experience.
(1) Ask this forum for recommendations on where to get a PPI.
(2) Even if you are getting the greatest buy on a 100K miles 993, be prepared for repairs. Some 911 guru once said you will likely spend $2K on virtually any 911 when you get her home. I assume this holds true for 993s.
(3) Do not trust a seller to protect your interests.
At the end, this is something that $$$ can fix.
Lastly, approach the seller and the mechanic with your findings and let them know you plan to seek reimbursement for CEL issue.
02-07-2009, 09:53 AM
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Two pieces of info from your original post:
"...relied on the PO's information and the results of a partial PPI to make my decision".
"...I wanted to go with a full PPI but the mechanic said the car pulled strong in every gear and I find this to be true, so he concentrated on a 35 point check list instead of the usual full-tilt-boogie".
It doesn't help at this point, but without a FULL PPI from an independent Tech, you left yourself very vulnerable in "As Is" land.
Good luck with getting your car right and then enjoying it!
"...relied on the PO's information and the results of a partial PPI to make my decision".
"...I wanted to go with a full PPI but the mechanic said the car pulled strong in every gear and I find this to be true, so he concentrated on a 35 point check list instead of the usual full-tilt-boogie".
It doesn't help at this point, but without a FULL PPI from an independent Tech, you left yourself very vulnerable in "As Is" land.
Good luck with getting your car right and then enjoying it!
02-07-2009, 11:16 AM
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Bernie,
Don't listen to any of the "you should have done or I told you so posts". Everyone has ungodly knowledge hindsight. At this point you need to think positive and move forward. I know what you are going through because I was in a similar situation. I was so excited about my first Porsche that I built myself up waiting for the day for it to arrive only to be let down by some things that I thought were catastrophic. Looking back now they weren't so bad and I'm on top of the world again now that they are complete.
I think the best advice is what fnckr said to look into the warranty/protection of ebay.
http://pages.motors.ebay.com/buy/pur...ion/index.html
start a claim with them immediately even if it goes no where you have a record of your findings by a third party to use in the future in case you have to take the mechanic and previous owner to court.
Once you start this process I think all of the communication is handled through ebay's system. This way you have a record of the conversation that takes place between you and the previous owner. Based on #7 of their Vehicle Protection Policy it soulnds like you have a case.
VPP Policy
#7 The vehicle had undisclosed engine, body, transmission, and/or frame damage at the time of purchase that will cost more than $1,000 to repair. The cost of repair to any one of those components must exceed $1,000. For vehicles in the Boats (engine and hull only), Buses, Commercial Trucks, and RVs & Campers categories, the cost of the undisclosed engine, body, transmission, or frame damage must exceed $1,500. Race Cars are not eligible for this protection.
In the end it will all get taken care of one way or another and you will begin to enjoy your awesome car. It's just unfortunate that it had to begin this way but you will have a smile on your face when you get the car right. Good luck my friend and feel free to keep leaning on this board for support along the way. I've met tons of great people here in the last two months.
Don't listen to any of the "you should have done or I told you so posts". Everyone has ungodly knowledge hindsight. At this point you need to think positive and move forward. I know what you are going through because I was in a similar situation. I was so excited about my first Porsche that I built myself up waiting for the day for it to arrive only to be let down by some things that I thought were catastrophic. Looking back now they weren't so bad and I'm on top of the world again now that they are complete.
I think the best advice is what fnckr said to look into the warranty/protection of ebay.
http://pages.motors.ebay.com/buy/pur...ion/index.html
start a claim with them immediately even if it goes no where you have a record of your findings by a third party to use in the future in case you have to take the mechanic and previous owner to court.
Once you start this process I think all of the communication is handled through ebay's system. This way you have a record of the conversation that takes place between you and the previous owner. Based on #7 of their Vehicle Protection Policy it soulnds like you have a case.
VPP Policy
#7 The vehicle had undisclosed engine, body, transmission, and/or frame damage at the time of purchase that will cost more than $1,000 to repair. The cost of repair to any one of those components must exceed $1,000. For vehicles in the Boats (engine and hull only), Buses, Commercial Trucks, and RVs & Campers categories, the cost of the undisclosed engine, body, transmission, or frame damage must exceed $1,500. Race Cars are not eligible for this protection.
In the end it will all get taken care of one way or another and you will begin to enjoy your awesome car. It's just unfortunate that it had to begin this way but you will have a smile on your face when you get the car right. Good luck my friend and feel free to keep leaning on this board for support along the way. I've met tons of great people here in the last two months.
02-07-2009, 11:39 AM
#14
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Waxhaw, NC (Charlotte sub)
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Bernie, I truly feel your pain. I bought my 993 on eBay in Chicago four weeks ago. I live in NC, so I had the same remote purchaser issue as you. My decision to have a complete PPI, including leak down and compression test, was a $500 decision but I feel a whole lot better today that I did.
As others have written, don't beat yourself up about your decision. It is what it is, now move on and pursue that eBay warranty stuff.
I wish you all the best with your new 993 and hope there only a few minor things to fix.
As others have written, don't beat yourself up about your decision. It is what it is, now move on and pursue that eBay warranty stuff.
I wish you all the best with your new 993 and hope there only a few minor things to fix.
02-07-2009, 12:14 PM
#15
Pro
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
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Bernie:
Two things...you like your 993 I can tell...it just has a few small concerns...
1. Oil...You can replace the gaskets...try pcarworkshop.com and searches here. Searches here are really beneficial if you use the advanced search area and search 'titles' only...quicker!!!
2. Check Engine Light...If it comes back after resetting and it turns out to be the secondary air injection system...my thoughts are to try the bass guitar string method of cleaning.
You can do all this yourself, albeit timely it is easy, and satisfying...use your digital camera and take sick pics...arm yourself with the shop manual and this website and you're good to go.
It will be better soon!
Two things...you like your 993 I can tell...it just has a few small concerns...
1. Oil...You can replace the gaskets...try pcarworkshop.com and searches here. Searches here are really beneficial if you use the advanced search area and search 'titles' only...quicker!!!
2. Check Engine Light...If it comes back after resetting and it turns out to be the secondary air injection system...my thoughts are to try the bass guitar string method of cleaning.
You can do all this yourself, albeit timely it is easy, and satisfying...use your digital camera and take sick pics...arm yourself with the shop manual and this website and you're good to go.
It will be better soon!