Gus

Ritter,
I put a Varioram on my 91- 964 . Now that putting one on a 993 will be a lot easier. I was surprised that all the oil lines were pretty simple to figure out. Think my biggest issue was withe throttle cable and cruise control. For you these work pretty easy as it will be a stock option.

Rutger Gert-Jan

So, I found my Vram intake manifold complete with the ECU (number 993.618.123.11) and the wiring loom from the ECU to the engine compartment. I do have a few questions for the experts:

1.

Should I change the loom from the ECU or just keep my own loom in place? My car was produced as a MY 94 car (USA) so it has the SAI airpump, well it had when it left Stuttgart In other words, the connections are all there. (my car has the up-dated engine wire loom).

2. I saw a picture of Bill Verburg`s car with the pre Vram AC lines still in the car, can someone tell me how this is/was done?

Regards,

RGJ

Bill Verburg

The easist way is probably to swap the looms, but to rewire isn't a big deal either. To change a non-vram US loom to RoW vram requires
1) yellow and white wire that used to go to the SAI pump now goes to the forward(resonator) solenoid.
2) the old resonator wire, grey and white, now goes to the vram actuator.
3) RoW v-ram compatible 55 pin chip

nothing special was done
original


RoW vram in place

Rutger Gert-Jan

Bill,

Thank you for your reply, the AC lines on my car look different so I think the best option is to look for another set of AC lines i.e. the newer version.

Regarding the ECU wire loom, I think I will first try to keep my old wire loom in place and connect it to the newer ECU, see if it works as it should. (I will be making a new harness to connect it to the 2 Vram solenoids, I do not want to cut in my wire loom)

Regards,

RGJ

JM993

Hi Rutger,

You shouldn't need to make a new harness for the VRAM solenoids if your car has the updated engine harness. You only need to run two new leads from the engine fusebox to the ECU as shown in post #5 of this thread.

As Bill states you can either swap the ECU to engine fusebox loom or simply add the two leads - either way is easy. In fact the hardest job is pulling up the carpet to get at the loom. The glue Porsche uses to secure the carpet is probably the same stuff NASA used to secure the heat reflecting tiles on the space shuttle. That stuff is tough!

Cheers,
Joe

Rutger Gert-Jan

I will run the two new leads from the ECU to the engine fuse box, seems to be the best option. (now where is that BMW part number??)

Antoher question, is it a good idea to open up the Vram manifold and clean it+ apply some new grease where it is needed?

Thanx again!

JM993

Unfortunately, I don't have the part number for the BMW bullet connector. However, if you take your spare loom or a copy of the last picture in post #6 to the BMW dealer they should be able to identify it for you. (Request: When you identify the part number, please post it to this thread to make it easier for the next person who tries the conversion).

Regarding the oil breather hoses in your PM. I replaced the two larger hoses with later v-ram hoses: part numbers 993-207-143-03 and 993-207-151-00 (please reference PET 104-01 to double check these numbers as they may have been superceeded with new numbers). The small diameter hose (it looks like a heater hose) I simply shortened and added a junction (this can be found on your old manifold). Adding a junction is important as it is very difficult to get to these hoses once the v-ram manifold is installed. You’ll want to attach these lines to v-ram manifold before you install it.

Up to you regarding opening your manifold to clean it. It probably shouldn't be dirty (mine wasn't) unless it came from a car with oil control issues.

Hope this helps.
Joe

Rutger Gert-Jan

Hi All,


Just went to my local BMW dealership, I got the "bullet-connector"

I got 10, just to be on the safe side...the BMW partnumber is:

61 13 1 376 191 (Joe, could you put this number into your DIY?)

Total cost €5,83.....

JM993

Done. Thanks Rutger.

Rutger Gert-Jan

so I got a manifold from a C4, so one of the vacuum connections is missing, (at the end of the left side manifold where the electric connections are as well)any solutions how to overcome this? or shoul I start looking for a C2 set up?

Or I could use the the connection that is there (for my brake booster) and put the vacuum can somewhere else? (i.e. manifold)

Rutger Gert-Jan

To fix my problem as stated in the post above, I changed my vacuum lines to the ones from a C2, make sure you check this when you buy a manifold. (i.e. is it for a C2 or a C4).

axl911

Yep...common problem. You're missing one branch of the vacuum line that normally goes to the brake booster.

You should look to a part dismantler to get the needed pieces to make that branch.

Rutger Gert-Jan

Thank you Axl, I did get all the parts from a C2 varioram engine, so no more problems there.

Just this afternoon I started the car, no problems. But I do have question, what should the varioram controllers do on startup??

When i put the ignition in position II the tuning flap (resonance flap) is opened, when the care starts it is back to its normal position (closed)

The two Varioram controllers on top of the manifold do no move at al in ignition position II or when the car is started.....

Is this normal or?

ps my car is MY 94, so maybe another connection on the ECU connector is needed? I do have the later ECU with no drive block. On futher investigation
I learned that my ECU is equiped with a cartronics performance chip, maybe they removed the test function?

Rutger Gert-Jan

Update:

One of the BMW bullet type connectors did not made a good contact, so now all "flippers" are activated when I put the ingnition to position II, when I start the car they return to their normal position.

Is this how the "flippers" should work? Or should they make a complete cycle when the ignition is in position II?

Thanx again.

JM993

I'm not exactly sure what a flipper is, but if you are referring to the 3 actuators - yes all three should cycle when you turn the key to the #2 position. They should return to original position when you turn the key off.

Cheers,
Joe