Edward

They look great, and I love Rennline stuff. But over the countless batteries I've purchased (over maybe 20+ yrs), I've found there seems to be zero correlation to the amount one spends on a batt and its longevity, given sim CCA (disclaimer: never tried an odyssey, but have used more than one optima and countless others). I know the point is less weight and better distribution of such, but for 10-15 lbs of savings vs increased cost, I stick with a conventional albeit smaller-than-stock batttery. FWIW, IMHO

Edward

NC TRACKRAT

FWIW, I think there is the added safety factor of AGM batteries like Odyssey, Optima, etc, in that they aren't going to spill their guts. If you've ever experienced the agony of discovering a split case and having to clean up, touch up paint, etc., you know what I'm talking about. Also, I have found that if you know you're not going to drive your car for a few days or more, then plug in the Battery Tender Plus or CTEK. Sulfating from discharge is what shortens a battery's life. Keeping them up with a with a "float charge" will vastly improve their longevity. (BTW, saving 1 lb. is like gaining 1 hp.)

Edward

The real plus with a gel type is, as you mentioned, no possibility of acid spillage should the car experience, oh, an extreme change in it's typical shiny-side-up orientation. This is clear. But should the car experience said change in "orientation," I believe there will be much more than some burned paint to clean up. Moreover, a properly-operating charging systems don't cause batteries to burp up. But I hear you; gel is better than regular should there be any track mishaps.

As for weight, no question lighter is better. I had conceded this. But 1lb per HP?!!! So I ditch 60 lbs in a/c plumbing and according to your math it's "like gaining"??.... no. I don't think so. Let's stick with facts shall we.

Edward

NC TRACKRAT

I've seen brand new conventional battery cases leak for no apparent reason. Edward, I'll concede to you that I don't have empirical data to support the 1lb=1hp but I have seen well-driven, stripped-down early 911's with barely 200 hp make late model high hp cars look stupid. I also know that my little MCS now weighs 2750 lbs., only dynos 197 at the front wheels with only a 15% pulley and cold air intake but it plays with the big boys in the Red run group. All I'm saying is that losing weight is the cheapest way to increase performance.

Edward

Hey NC,
No argument with you regarding weight ...or lack thereof. What you describe with light cars kicking butt is, of course, a testament of how "adding lightness" can make for huge improvements in a car's handling. But I will venture to say that even more important is the driver. Your "modest" pwr/weight ratio is clearly multiplied by your driving skill. I do see it all the time, as well. On occasion (albeit rare ), it is I who makes that high HP whatever look like a pig in my street-tires, nearly-stock SC ...that weighs around 2525 . But more often than not, it is the talented drivers of modest power who can stick with, if not out-do, more powerful yet heavier cars. We all see that on the track, and my bud also races very successfully (and consistently) with a sub 130hp GTI. Forget how he practically dominates within his class ...I marvel what he does to others with "real" cars ...suffice it to say it's a joy to watch drivers with greater testicular fortitude and skill than I do well because of skill ...and some help from the machine. So yes, your point is well taken.

Bottom line on batteries is yeah, leaking acid sucks! But like so many things, performance (or in this case shedding weight) always cost$ you, and it has been a long time since I've had a lead-acid batt do me wrong. That was my simple point.


Edward

Mark in Baltimore

Additionally, on the track, there's more to weight reduction performance than enhancement of straight line speed. The lighter you make the car, of course, the less weight there is to stop and the less weight there is to turn, all of which add up to lower lap times.

I've never heard of the 1lb=1hp maxim, which I wish were true.

NP993

I agree that losing weight is the best all-around way to increase performance, but I believe the ratio is something more like: -8 pounds = +1 horsepower. I've seen that figure cited several places.

IXLR8

Note that Odyssey batteries call for certain "Minimum 3 Step Charger Current" as outlined on page 13 of their Application Manual.

For a PC 680 or smaller battery it calls for a 6A charger, and for a PC 925 or smaller battery it calls for a 10A charger...as minimums.

Charging rate might be a reason why some are having issues.

Robin 993DX

I have the 925 in my 360 spider and love it. No problem with the low amperage battery maintainer either, however I did noticed it takes longer to get it back to "charged" state.

IXLR8

Well it would take longer to charge as it would with any battery when using a lower charging rate.

The point is, what are the long term effects on battery life by using a charger with a lower than recommended charging rate in the case of an Odyssey battery?

Battery manufactuers have manuals for a reason, so that you can get the most life out of your battery by following their recommendations. Short battery life gives them a bad name and in turn, low sales.

My seaonal/periodic use batteries last 9 years. My daily driver batteries last 11 (and still going) and 16 years (when the car was sold).

Steve Nagata

I've had my Odessy PC1250 for 5 years... And it just started this year to act up.

Replaced with an Optima Red Top.

TrackDays247.com

Got it. Used it for 5 years, what a battery...

Zero issues, when I had some start issues it can crank out the amps/reserve in a surprising manner -

IXLR8

For a premium battery, that is not very long considering where you live.

TrackDays247.com

Been IN the car for 5 years and still in it.

IXLR8

You did write "used it for 5 years", so I thought it went belly up.