Front wheel offset question
#1
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Front wheel offset question
Hello,
What difference should I expect to see in difference in these two wheels:
Current front wheel is 8x19 with 57 offset
Proposed front wheel is 8.5x19 with 67 offset
Am I only looking at the new wheel being about .5" closer to the edge of the front fender?
Thanks in advance,
Randy
What difference should I expect to see in difference in these two wheels:
Current front wheel is 8x19 with 57 offset
Proposed front wheel is 8.5x19 with 67 offset
Am I only looking at the new wheel being about .5" closer to the edge of the front fender?
Thanks in advance,
Randy
#4
Three Wheelin'
As hinted in the other responses, your wheel would be 10mm further from the fender lip, not closer. This could cause clearance issues with the suspension unless you add a spacer.
#5
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In addition to the 10mm of additional offset, he is also looking at a wheel that is 12.5mm more wide, which also effects the relationship to the fender and the suspension.
#6
Three Wheelin'
1" = 25.4mm, so 1/2" = 12.7mm extra wheel width
so 10mm - (1/2*12.7) = 10mm - 6.35mm = 3.65mm further from the fender lip...
and more importantly 10mm + 6.35mm = 16.35mm Closer to the suspension!
Last edited by 993_Pilot; 10-24-2008 at 04:49 PM.
#7
Increasing the rim width does not always reduce your clearance by 50% of the increased width unless the car is very, very low....or the wheel tucks in a lot like on the rear of a BMW 3-series. What matters most is the width of the tire itself (not necessarily the tradwidth but the width at the widest part of the tire...usually the sidewall). Say for example you are running a 215 or 225 on a 8" rim (which is already decently stretched)...if you mount the same tire on a 9" rim with the same offset, the clearance on both sides will not be reduced by 1/2" each...more like 1/4". This is because the tire is already pretty stretched on the 8" rim so the tire width will not increase much. Now if on the other hand you have a 255 or 265 on an 8" rim and move to a 9" rim the clearance will be reduced pretty close to 1/2 on each side.
With regards to the OP, IMHO ET50-52 is a "safe" offset for 7.5-8.5 rims with a 225-235 tire. If you are willing to possibly roll your fenders slightly, you can run a 245 on 8.5"ET45 or 9"ET40 but I would not go more aggressive than ET40. If the wheel you use is ET57-60 or greater, I think you should run a spacer...not just for clearance issues but aesthetics as well since the fenders won't look very "full".
My $0.02
With regards to the OP, IMHO ET50-52 is a "safe" offset for 7.5-8.5 rims with a 225-235 tire. If you are willing to possibly roll your fenders slightly, you can run a 245 on 8.5"ET45 or 9"ET40 but I would not go more aggressive than ET40. If the wheel you use is ET57-60 or greater, I think you should run a spacer...not just for clearance issues but aesthetics as well since the fenders won't look very "full".
My $0.02
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#8
#9
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If you are going to introduce tires into the equation, then you need more than just tire size. The actual overall size and shape of the tire will vary by manufacturer, and by tire model within a manufacturer's line.
Sticking to wheels, if the offset is maintained, the increase in wheel width will be distributed equally to the inside and outside of the mounted rim.
Sticking to wheels, if the offset is maintained, the increase in wheel width will be distributed equally to the inside and outside of the mounted rim.
#10
Race Car
Here:
1) Inner Clearance would be 16mm less (you'll need spacers)
2) The Outer portion of the tire would retract 4 mm from fender
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
1) Inner Clearance would be 16mm less (you'll need spacers)
2) The Outer portion of the tire would retract 4 mm from fender
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
#11
Three Wheelin'
I was assuming (maybe incorrectly) that the OP would be keeping the same tires, along with the same ride height and camber, but David has a very good point about how the tire section width can vary with the rim width too.
#12
Racer
I did not use longer studs....
I think 10 mm is the upper limit of not needing them, although I have a few nice thread turns worth of grip. The need for longer studs may also depend on the thickness of the wheel at the point where the lugnut holds. For me, I was lucky that the RUF's I installed were same thickness as the twists I removed. Without the spacers, the rubbing was bad.