What should a new clutch cost????
#16
Drifting
Hmm, so does anyone have a DIY for the "lowering it a few inches" method or is that pretty straight forward going off of the other clutch DIY's?
I REALLY need to do mine but I've been putting it off until I feel confident enough to tackle the job.
I REALLY need to do mine but I've been putting it off until I feel confident enough to tackle the job.
#17
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I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. Its an opportunity to replace all "wear" items. I.e. the steering belt which is located forward right of the engine., imposible to reach when engine is installed.
You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
Last edited by Carrera Mike; 07-15-2008 at 06:29 AM.
#18
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I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. Its an opurtunity to replace all "wear" items. I.e. the steering belt which is located forward right of the engine., imposible to reach when engine is installed.
You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
#19
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+2 -it is the perfect time to replace the check valve for the secondary air system to keep those nasty CEL lights off. I had mine done last year - LWF, clutch, check valve, short shift kit = $3000 and well worth it. Replace the clutch without the LWF is a mistake in my mind.
#20
Rennlist Member
I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. Its an opportunity to replace all "wear" items. I.e. the steering belt which is located forward right of the engine., imposible to reach when engine is installed.
You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
+2 -it is the perfect time to replace the check valve for the secondary air system to keep those nasty CEL lights off. I had mine done last year - LWF, clutch, check valve, short shift kit = $3000 and well worth it. Replace the clutch without the LWF is a mistake in my mind.
I wish I had known about some of this stuff when I had my clutch & LWF done via engine drop. I later did the check valve with engine in and it was not fun. Based on others comments I'm not even going to try the power steering belt with engine in.
#21
Burning Brakes
[Random aside]
Having completed many several DIYs, the power steering belt was the most difficult, frustrating, time consuming pain in the a**.
Worse, after getting it all apart and comparing the old belt to the new, I realized that they were different sizes. I was not pleased with Pelican.
This is definitely one of those 'while your in there' that's a no brainer.
Having completed many several DIYs, the power steering belt was the most difficult, frustrating, time consuming pain in the a**.
Worse, after getting it all apart and comparing the old belt to the new, I realized that they were different sizes. I was not pleased with Pelican.
This is definitely one of those 'while your in there' that's a no brainer.
#22
Drifting
Good info, thank you guys very much.
Now to decide on the LWF or not. I've got a 95 and am afraid of the stalling issue
I know there are some "fixes" for it floating around but I've never seen anything as an end-all to the issue
Now to decide on the LWF or not. I've got a 95 and am afraid of the stalling issue
I know there are some "fixes" for it floating around but I've never seen anything as an end-all to the issue
#23
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I am coming up on needing a clutch, as well. Question: does the DMF need any attention? Should it be in good shape and not need replacing? (no, don't want to go to LWF). Thanks!
Edward
Edward
#24
Rennlist Member
+5?
and you can make all all the previously dirty bits, really really clean.....................
if you're into that kind of thing.
There is no comprehensively documented DIY just for clutch R&R AFAIK
but
RLer TOGA posted an engine / transaxle removal DIY in december of 04.
perhaps that will be of assistance?
cheers
Craig
and you can make all all the previously dirty bits, really really clean.....................
if you're into that kind of thing.
There is no comprehensively documented DIY just for clutch R&R AFAIK
but
RLer TOGA posted an engine / transaxle removal DIY in december of 04.
perhaps that will be of assistance?
cheers
Craig
#26
#27
+5?
and you can make all all the previously dirty bits, really really clean.....................
if you're into that kind of thing.
There is no comprehensively documented DIY just for clutch R&R AFAIK
but
RLer TOGA posted an engine / transaxle removal DIY in december of 04.
perhaps that will be of assistance?
cheers
Craig
and you can make all all the previously dirty bits, really really clean.....................
if you're into that kind of thing.
There is no comprehensively documented DIY just for clutch R&R AFAIK
but
RLer TOGA posted an engine / transaxle removal DIY in december of 04.
perhaps that will be of assistance?
cheers
Craig
#28
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Well..I changed my clutch on my back, under jack stands on my old supra many moons ago. Wasn't too hard, but wouldn't want to do it again. On a 993 with a lift, and all the help that's on here it shouldn't be too difficult.
#29
I think MikeJ once used a cherry picker to lift the car off of the engine. So many options here.