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What should a new clutch cost????

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Old 07-15-2008, 12:22 AM
  #16  
Black993
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Hmm, so does anyone have a DIY for the "lowering it a few inches" method or is that pretty straight forward going off of the other clutch DIY's?

I REALLY need to do mine but I've been putting it off until I feel confident enough to tackle the job.
Old 07-15-2008, 12:50 AM
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Carrera Mike
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I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. Its an opportunity to replace all "wear" items. I.e. the steering belt which is located forward right of the engine., imposible to reach when engine is installed.

You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.

Last edited by Carrera Mike; 07-15-2008 at 06:29 AM.
Old 07-15-2008, 01:00 AM
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chris walrod
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. Its an opurtunity to replace all "wear" items. I.e. the steering belt which is located forward right of the engine., imposible to reach when engine is installed.

You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
+1
Old 07-15-2008, 02:53 AM
  #19  
porscheralph
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+2 -it is the perfect time to replace the check valve for the secondary air system to keep those nasty CEL lights off. I had mine done last year - LWF, clutch, check valve, short shift kit = $3000 and well worth it. Replace the clutch without the LWF is a mistake in my mind.
Old 07-15-2008, 09:35 AM
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Mark Harris
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. Its an opportunity to replace all "wear" items. I.e. the steering belt which is located forward right of the engine., imposible to reach when engine is installed.

You'll sleep better knowing that you took care of those items, specially if your car is a keeper. No worries on long drives.
+2.5

Originally Posted by porscheralph
+2 -it is the perfect time to replace the check valve for the secondary air system to keep those nasty CEL lights off. I had mine done last year - LWF, clutch, check valve, short shift kit = $3000 and well worth it. Replace the clutch without the LWF is a mistake in my mind.
+3

I wish I had known about some of this stuff when I had my clutch & LWF done via engine drop. I later did the check valve with engine in and it was not fun. Based on others comments I'm not even going to try the power steering belt with engine in.
Old 07-15-2008, 10:53 AM
  #21  
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[Random aside]

Having completed many several DIYs, the power steering belt was the most difficult, frustrating, time consuming pain in the a**.

Worse, after getting it all apart and comparing the old belt to the new, I realized that they were different sizes. I was not pleased with Pelican.

This is definitely one of those 'while your in there' that's a no brainer.
Old 07-15-2008, 12:01 PM
  #22  
Black993
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Good info, thank you guys very much.

Now to decide on the LWF or not. I've got a 95 and am afraid of the stalling issue
I know there are some "fixes" for it floating around but I've never seen anything as an end-all to the issue
Old 07-15-2008, 10:55 PM
  #23  
Edward
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I am coming up on needing a clutch, as well. Question: does the DMF need any attention? Should it be in good shape and not need replacing? (no, don't want to go to LWF). Thanks!

Edward
Old 07-16-2008, 12:28 PM
  #24  
cgfen
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
I highly recommend to just lower it all the way off the car. .
+5?
and you can make all all the previously dirty bits, really really clean.....................
if you're into that kind of thing.

There is no comprehensively documented DIY just for clutch R&R AFAIK
but
RLer TOGA posted an engine / transaxle removal DIY in december of 04.
perhaps that will be of assistance?

cheers

Craig
Old 07-16-2008, 06:51 PM
  #25  
BlackCar
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How much more difficult is installation for a new clutch in a 1996 C4, compared to a C2?
Old 07-17-2008, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackCar
How much more difficult is installation for a new clutch in a 1996 C4, compared to a C2?
It's not bad. I did it over the winter with no issues. I think for us normal DIY'ers, the engine does need to come out. But you can do a lot of the other maintenance.
Old 07-17-2008, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cgfen
+5?
and you can make all all the previously dirty bits, really really clean.....................
if you're into that kind of thing.

There is no comprehensively documented DIY just for clutch R&R AFAIK
but
RLer TOGA posted an engine / transaxle removal DIY in december of 04.
perhaps that will be of assistance?

cheers

Craig
I used Toga's guide and it worked great. I still don't know why he is not a lifetime member for that contribution.
Old 07-17-2008, 10:02 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jaholmes
Not bad at all if you know which end is the wrench and have a good lift. I did this over the winter and it turned out just fine. I did have to drop the motor, but I got to do more while your in there stuff.
Well..I changed my clutch on my back, under jack stands on my old supra many moons ago. Wasn't too hard, but wouldn't want to do it again. On a 993 with a lift, and all the help that's on here it shouldn't be too difficult.
Old 07-17-2008, 12:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
Well..I changed my clutch on my back, under jack stands on my old supra many moons ago. Wasn't too hard, but wouldn't want to do it again. On a 993 with a lift, and all the help that's on here it shouldn't be too difficult.
I used a mid-rise lift and one of those 1k rolling lift tables and I was able to get the engine and trans back in with no help at all.

I think MikeJ once used a cherry picker to lift the car off of the engine. So many options here.



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