DIY Help Request - Adding a Remote
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,817
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From: Alberta, Canada
DIY Help Request - Adding a Remote
It's been a frustrating Father's Day afternoon trying to install a remote key fob into my '95. I bought a cheap Eton Jaguar Top for $22 on sale at the local auto store (first mistake) and followed the instructions per https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...iy#post1158765
After a little cussing while trying to use the cheap wire taps I got the unit installed. I tapped into the blue/white and green/white wires going into the box with the wires from Channel 1 and Channel 2. It will lock the door every once in awhile and the unlock works fine. The locking is erratic. Sometimes there is no click in the door and sometimes there is a small click in the door and sometimes a heavy click kind of like it can't quite pull in. Sometimes it will lock but the alarm doesn't arm. I've checked the tap and ground connections a few times. I'm now wondering if there is something wrong with the unit. The key doesn't work properly in the door until with this unit installed unless I pull the fuse in this unit. Any ideas?
After a little cussing while trying to use the cheap wire taps I got the unit installed. I tapped into the blue/white and green/white wires going into the box with the wires from Channel 1 and Channel 2. It will lock the door every once in awhile and the unlock works fine. The locking is erratic. Sometimes there is no click in the door and sometimes there is a small click in the door and sometimes a heavy click kind of like it can't quite pull in. Sometimes it will lock but the alarm doesn't arm. I've checked the tap and ground connections a few times. I'm now wondering if there is something wrong with the unit. The key doesn't work properly in the door until with this unit installed unless I pull the fuse in this unit. Any ideas?
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From: CA>Oklahoma!
Sometimes these wire taps don't make good contact, especially with thinner wires. You might try making the connections by just making a circumferential cut in the wire, pulling back the insulation slightly, then wrapping on the bare end of the new wire, and finishing with electrical tape. This will ensure good contact.
If the performance is still intermittent, I would return the unit.
I got good results with an inexpensive unit, a CA100 by CodeAlarm for $40. I chose it because it has a very small fob.
If the performance is still intermittent, I would return the unit.
I got good results with an inexpensive unit, a CA100 by CodeAlarm for $40. I chose it because it has a very small fob.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,817
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From: Alberta, Canada
Yes the taps don't work very well when the wires are different gages. Perhaps I will try grounding the lock wire manually (I think this will work) just to prove it is the unit. If the unit is faulty perhaps another channel will work. The buttons aren't labeled lock or unlock and just 1/2/3/4.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Kirkland, WA
Good idea to try grounding the wires manually, if that works you know that a solid signal will do the job. You could try a volt meter on your connection to make sure it is getting pulled low by the remote.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,817
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From: Alberta, Canada
Ok, now I'm confused. I bought a better 3 button remote unit. The remote was better looking than the first cheapie anyway. The wires and wiring diagram are totally different than the other one. I installed it using alligator clips at the control unit wires. Same symptoms. It sounded like it wanted to lock but didn't have quite enough juice to pull it in. I grounded the green/white lock wire to the chassis and it worked once. I had a look at the bare wires going to the control unit and they sure got chewed up by the taps. Quite a few of the wire strands were broken so I cut back the insulation, wrapped the new wires from the remote unit around them and soldered them up. No difference. Now what (yeah I know - take it in and let somebody who knows what they are doing finish it 
)
I was going to use the new lock/unlock wires labeled 87 Input Normally Open but decided to use the 87A wires Normally Closed since the Normally Open wires joined together at an inline fuse and then had only one wire coming out which didn't seem right. Perhaps this was a mistake. It's late, dark and I'm tired and frustrated since everyone else too 90 minutes to do this job and I'm going on 4 hours. I'll have another go Thursday.
Just went to the www.the12volt./com website. I think I found the problem. I should of connected the 30 output/common wires to the lock/unlock wires and run the 87 wires to ground. I had a crash course in relays earlier today. I'm not a good student. The 30/87/87a are all std terminology for the terminals in an automotive relay which is what the keyless remote is anyway (2 relays).
)I was going to use the new lock/unlock wires labeled 87 Input Normally Open but decided to use the 87A wires Normally Closed since the Normally Open wires joined together at an inline fuse and then had only one wire coming out which didn't seem right. Perhaps this was a mistake. It's late, dark and I'm tired and frustrated since everyone else too 90 minutes to do this job and I'm going on 4 hours. I'll have another go Thursday.
Just went to the www.the12volt./com website. I think I found the problem. I should of connected the 30 output/common wires to the lock/unlock wires and run the 87 wires to ground. I had a crash course in relays earlier today. I'm not a good student. The 30/87/87a are all std terminology for the terminals in an automotive relay which is what the keyless remote is anyway (2 relays).
Last edited by matt777; Jun 17, 2008 at 01:46 AM. Reason: update
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Thanks Nick. I had found your notes. My problem lies with interpreting the new remote wiring diagram. These units all seem to have different terminology and wire colors and diagrams so instructions for one particular unit don't apply to another unfortunately. If all of the remote mfg's referred to the std relay syntax at least a guy could figure it out. Knowing that it is a grounding type of set-up helps. I hope I have the answer now and will try it out in the next few days. I'm hoping to be keyless soon! If I am successful I will post some more instructions for others that attempt this mod. Perhaps it will help another electrical dufus like me.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Rewired things per my brainwave a few nights ago. The doors lock and unlock properly now. 
I connected the wires per BobbyTs advice(no taps) and then soldered them. I used adhesive backed velcro to attach the box to the top of one of the stereo crossovers as there's no floor space left under the passenger seat.
I connected the wires per BobbyTs advice(no taps) and then soldered them. I used adhesive backed velcro to attach the box to the top of one of the stereo crossovers as there's no floor space left under the passenger seat.
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