Brake setup question
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The brake ducts supplied w/ most of the kits are so small as to be near useless.
You can double up the A arm scoops for better performance.
Definitely use fresh b/f, If you are going to buy a spare set of pads I'd rather have a speare set of Pagid Yellows. I use Yellows all the time on mine, keep them clean and they don't even squeel too much.
Also start w/ full thickness pads, the thicker they are the longer they'll keep heat away from the fluid, track pads like the Pagid Yellow also help in this regard as they have built in heat barriers.
You can double up the A arm scoops for better performance.
Definitely use fresh b/f, If you are going to buy a spare set of pads I'd rather have a speare set of Pagid Yellows. I use Yellows all the time on mine, keep them clean and they don't even squeel too much.
Also start w/ full thickness pads, the thicker they are the longer they'll keep heat away from the fluid, track pads like the Pagid Yellow also help in this regard as they have built in heat barriers.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 821
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From: SF East Bay, CA
Bill, thanks for the advice. I've come across brake ducts that are 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Is that too small by your standard? I came across a website showing how one could extend the length of the A-arm scoop - is this what you're referring to?
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From: Los Altos, CA
I doubled up my brake ducts and it has worked well.
The trick is to get two sets of the stock plastic brake ducts and trim them so that you can mount one on the top of the A arm and one below it to help the duct drop down about an inch lower. You need bolts that are a little longer as well.
This really helps when the car has been lowered and you don't have the rs uprights.
Neat thing is that it doesn't require drilling holes into your car.
The trick is to get two sets of the stock plastic brake ducts and trim them so that you can mount one on the top of the A arm and one below it to help the duct drop down about an inch lower. You need bolts that are a little longer as well.
This really helps when the car has been lowered and you don't have the rs uprights.
Neat thing is that it doesn't require drilling holes into your car.
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here's the space available, a better solution to ducting all the way to the bumper is to just duct from the aluminum rear wall and thru the fender liner, you bleed some cooling air from the oil but you can still just dump the bumper air freely into that cacity to compensate.
larger area rectangular duct would be ideal, the tires tend to pinch any thing that is proud of the chassis inner wall
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 821
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From: SF East Bay, CA
JPS, here's the link:
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/4-2002.htm
Is this what you did, ppressle? Do you have any pics?
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/4-2002.htm
Is this what you did, ppressle? Do you have any pics?
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