tropheus

All,
I need some advice and sharing of experience / opinions in regards of putting a clear bra on a new painted car.
In the next two weeks my car gets partly a new paintjob. I’m putting on a euro-turbo-front-bumper. Also the car will get wet-sanded. 3 fenders and on door have a really damaged paint so that I decided to get it fixed and have it repainted. I know there are all this discussions if a repaint will lower the resale value etc. However, as I’m not planning to sell the car soon I preferred to get it fixed.
To keep the car in a good shape after the paintjob I’m planning to have it fully covered with a clear bra. Not just only the typical front section. I was planning to go for a full cover. One of the reasons was also that the car very often parks under trees and there are a lot of things dropping from the trees on the car. I learned that after a repaint the color isn’t resistant as usually coming from the factory. Now I also learned that it could be critical to get the bra of from the paint one day. The detailer strongly recommends not using 3M as the likelihood to damage the paint when getting off is very high. Even with other products it can be critical even if they will use a steamer instead a heat gun.
Now, here is my dilemma where I need some opinions and experience.
1) Would you cover non factory paint with any type of clear bra due to the fact of potential damage when getting off the bra?
2) If not going with the bra solution which type of maintenance / wax etc would you recommend protecting the paint from all this droppings from the trees and birdsh...
3) If waxing the car the painter recommend to do it earliest after 4 weeks. Any guessing on this one?
Thanks a lot for valuable input in advance.

Jack

mike cap

Jack,

Definitely install the paint protection (clear-bra or others - all the same 3M film). Well worth the money and great protection. The nose of the 993 is a stone and debris magnet. The film on my car has saved paint damage more than once.

I have my Euro TT bumper (installed a few years ago, so non-factory paint) with the 3M paint protection. Have replaced a clear film section or two since then and there are no issues with damage to the paint surfaces. If you allow the paint to cure properly and there were no prep issues to weaken paint adhesion, you won't have a problem. Many have done as you are going to do w/o a problem.

Four weeks is what I have been told by paint shops and was my wait period before installing the film over new paint.

I would not clear film the whole car. There are inevitable imperfections in the film from stretch marks and you'll get swirl marks sooner or later. Also, sap and bird droppings can cause small discoloration spots on the film. Clear film the 'high mortality' areas; the nose and 1/3 up the hood, behind the tires and, of course, you can replace the OEM film in front of the rear tires.

Good luck with your project.

Kigiin

I had a similar experience several years ago when adding a euro turbo front to my car. The body guy's recommendation was to let the bumper cure out in the hot sun for at least a week or two before putting on the film. However, even then some other people told me there would be no guarantees that the paint would not lift when the film was eventually removed - I don't know yet as I haven't removed it. The body guy tells me it won't lift.

The body guy may be right because the clear bra guy had some bad film and it had to be removed from the hood a month later (hood was also repainted) and that paint didn't lift. However maybe bumper plastic won't hold the paint as well as the hood.

I would clear bra the entire bumper and 1/4 to 1/3 of the hood. And yes, 4 weeks seems to be the stand curing time for paint before waxing.

MarkD

If the paint prep work is done properly the finish will be fine... it should never lift.
It should be left to "off-gas" for 4 weeks.
If you get lucky it won't get a bad chip before you get the film on.

BTW, it is OK to put a pure wax on new paint/clear. It will breath and provide some protection.

H.H.Chinn

+1 Wait Four weeks minimum as this also allows the paint/clearcoat to thoroughly harden.

Raptor

FWIW, I was told to (and did) wait a month.

NP993

As in, the doors, roof, decklid, etc?

jaholmes

I had mine done and the body shop baked the paint. They did use Glassurt paint, not sure if that makes any difference. They said I can get it done whenever, no need to wait.

Carrera Mike

I will not definitely do the full car. Just the front. I would also strongly consider the quality of paint job that they will do to ensure it does not peel with the bra someday. Also get the clear bra that has no UV protection so the paint fades all at the same time.

Not the whole car. Just the front. Make sure the shop do outstanding prep job to ensure superior adhesion of the repaint so it does not comes up with the bra when peeled. I've painted aircrafts for years and the secret to an excellent paint is the preparation of the area and of course the quaility of the paint. Do not go cheap on a porsche if you want to be happy with it for a long time.

No 7 glaze(Mc Guires) first, then no 26 Super Yellow wax(McGuires).
Then re wax twice a year. If you start feeling grit after a good car wash, Clay that particular area and redo Glaze and Wax.

Yes, let the new paint outgas for good 4 weeks before sealing it with Glaze and wax

RallyJon

Exactly right. A friend owns a body shop. He said if they use the good German stuff and bake it, it's fine to clearbra right away.

He's a pretty tight lipped old guy, but I get the impression that there's a huge amount of misrepresentation in that business. When we crashed the Audi (fixed at another shop) we were supposed to get the OE quality paint, but it was the usual soft, aftermarket paint that chips much easier than the factory paint did.

GARY 95 993

you must wait four weeks before install or you could have problems.

David in LA

i waited almost 2 mos (just to be safe )