Drop link issue
#16
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JSCOTT: I have the Toe Bar below the drop link. I am hoping to raise the PSS10 Perch (out of Bilstein specs) to yield more room for the PSS10 supplied shorter Drop Links. If that fails to work I will use the Taretts as the RS Curved links sit so low (below the Toe Bar) that they will attract stuff in the Pa. roads and break.
Thanks, Patrick
1996 C4S
Thanks, Patrick
1996 C4S
#17
Race Car
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Is there any binding between the loinks and the toe arm at full droop? are there any marks on the arms. I actually broke the swaybar mounting tab off the crossmember a while back, the onl think it came down to was a binding bushing.....
I would be reluctant in moving the perch up, I actually had some curver droplinks custom made with heim joints, it has been great since.
I would be reluctant in moving the perch up, I actually had some curver droplinks custom made with heim joints, it has been great since.
Last edited by trophy; 12-28-2009 at 01:25 PM. Reason: Ignor my post.....
#18
Race Car
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Lined up the perch and the sway bar and tightened the lock color down as tight as I could. So far, knock on wood, no issues.
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Make sure while you're in there that the swaybar rotates freely:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-bushings.html
#20
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After 5 hours in the cold I may have this rear drop link issue solved.
After installing the PSS10s I had little clearance between the Toe Arm and the Drop Link:
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0873.jpg
The PSS10 kit came with a short Drop Link, the stock link was about 123mm versus the supplied
PSS10 Drop link that was 88mm-ish. A difference of 35mm-ish.http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0875.jpg
The stock Drop link length, between the stock Perch bolt hole to the stock drop link bolt hole was 92mm-ish. So to yield that same 92mm I had to raise my PSS10 Perch up 5 turns, about 10mm upward and that was 10mm higher than the PSS10 specs.
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0872.jpg
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0878.jpg
The resultant new clearance (un-loaded was significantly improved.
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0880.jpg
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0881.jpg
And under load the said clearance improved further.
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0883.jpg
Ira, from Tarett, emailed me that their rear 993 drop Links measure 3 1/2 inches (88mm) which is
the same length as the PSS10 supplied Drop Links. Howere, Ira said they could shorten that another inch if I neeed, about25mm).
If the supplied PSS10s break, I will go with the even shorter (by an inch)
Taretts.
Thanks, Patrick
1996 C4S
After installing the PSS10s I had little clearance between the Toe Arm and the Drop Link:
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0873.jpg
The PSS10 kit came with a short Drop Link, the stock link was about 123mm versus the supplied
PSS10 Drop link that was 88mm-ish. A difference of 35mm-ish.http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0875.jpg
The stock Drop link length, between the stock Perch bolt hole to the stock drop link bolt hole was 92mm-ish. So to yield that same 92mm I had to raise my PSS10 Perch up 5 turns, about 10mm upward and that was 10mm higher than the PSS10 specs.
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0872.jpg
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0878.jpg
The resultant new clearance (un-loaded was significantly improved.
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0880.jpg
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0881.jpg
And under load the said clearance improved further.
http://www.digitalcollage.com/Dressa...s/IMG_0883.jpg
Ira, from Tarett, emailed me that their rear 993 drop Links measure 3 1/2 inches (88mm) which is
the same length as the PSS10 supplied Drop Links. Howere, Ira said they could shorten that another inch if I neeed, about25mm).
If the supplied PSS10s break, I will go with the even shorter (by an inch)
Taretts.
Thanks, Patrick
1996 C4S
#21
Rennlist Member
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had them on the car for several years, with my PSS 9s, nary a problem. Prior, I was going through 993RS rear drop links at an uncomfortable rate. I also double collared my shocks/struts and added a paint stripe.
I also broke a front link, a stock one at that. The stock front link was just too long.
I have also noted that my pals with 993 RS sway bars and 993 RS drop links dont seem to have ANY problems. Next time I get some "funny money", these TRG bars are coming out and 993 RS bars going in...the TRG bars at 25mm front and 22mm rear are just to big, too stiff...easy to raise an inside wheel on a turn...I run front and rear at full soft for speed tracks, run the rear and mid to full stiff on short tracks where I want to more readily rotate the car.
I also broke a front link, a stock one at that. The stock front link was just too long.
I have also noted that my pals with 993 RS sway bars and 993 RS drop links dont seem to have ANY problems. Next time I get some "funny money", these TRG bars are coming out and 993 RS bars going in...the TRG bars at 25mm front and 22mm rear are just to big, too stiff...easy to raise an inside wheel on a turn...I run front and rear at full soft for speed tracks, run the rear and mid to full stiff on short tracks where I want to more readily rotate the car.
#22
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Hi Martin,
Do you change your suspension Camber-Toe between street and track ? Patrick
I am curious if where you are are their pro corner balance shops ?
I ask, as around here in Pa no one does it.
Patrick
1996C4S
Do you change your suspension Camber-Toe between street and track ? Patrick
I am curious if where you are are their pro corner balance shops ?
I ask, as around here in Pa no one does it.
Patrick
1996C4S
#23
Drifting
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I had some concerns about the proximity of the rear sway bar to the toe link too. The PSS10 links do work down to ROW Sport ride height. IIRC my final rear ride height was at the bottom of the range at about 117 - 120 mm.
#24
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Hi Matt, the PSS10 instructions note a rear range of 195mm to 210mm,. Today I will try again to get someone at Bilstein to explain why the limited range as the shock's themselves have lots of locking-collar threads showing for going out of range (low and up). Why offer such threads if the range is supposed to be limited ?
Also, I am curious about something. On the 993 rears, the original shock hats had a slight angle to accomodate the upper part of the springs' sitting position in that the shock sits at a slight angle.
However, the 993 PSS10s lack such a hat angle and it sits instead flush. Wouldn't the 993 PSS10 rear shock be a tad twisted without the angled hat ? The new 997 3.8 Turbos use the PSS10 system as stock, and they have the angled hat head. Why doesen't the 993 have a rear angled PSS10 hat too ?
Also, there is a metal bushing on the top threads and I am wondering if it is important for the bushing to be wrenched down tight against the base of the upper hat. If not, that bushing floats and causes I suspect a rattle up there.
Regarding the upper shock PSS10 threads, when that IIRC 18mm nut is wrenched down, it affects the springs as they become more compressed as you wrench down the 18mm nut, and I would think that in effect would affect the eventual ride height.
Patrick
Also, I am curious about something. On the 993 rears, the original shock hats had a slight angle to accomodate the upper part of the springs' sitting position in that the shock sits at a slight angle.
However, the 993 PSS10s lack such a hat angle and it sits instead flush. Wouldn't the 993 PSS10 rear shock be a tad twisted without the angled hat ? The new 997 3.8 Turbos use the PSS10 system as stock, and they have the angled hat head. Why doesen't the 993 have a rear angled PSS10 hat too ?
Also, there is a metal bushing on the top threads and I am wondering if it is important for the bushing to be wrenched down tight against the base of the upper hat. If not, that bushing floats and causes I suspect a rattle up there.
Regarding the upper shock PSS10 threads, when that IIRC 18mm nut is wrenched down, it affects the springs as they become more compressed as you wrench down the 18mm nut, and I would think that in effect would affect the eventual ride height.
Patrick
#25
Drifting
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You might be over analyzing things
My memory is a little fuzzy from the one install I did a year ago.
All I can tell you is that you have to reuse some of the top hat components as per the instructions. The geometry remains the same. It works. IIRC the metal bushings do get clamped/retained as the top nut is torqued down. When you tighten the top nut you do bottom out and this does not affect ride height. Ride height is only changed by cranking the locking rings up or down. The metal bushings will not rattle. I recall that the ride height is limited and you cannot get full SUV height. I guess they thought no one would buy them and want the std US ride height.
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All I can tell you is that you have to reuse some of the top hat components as per the instructions. The geometry remains the same. It works. IIRC the metal bushings do get clamped/retained as the top nut is torqued down. When you tighten the top nut you do bottom out and this does not affect ride height. Ride height is only changed by cranking the locking rings up or down. The metal bushings will not rattle. I recall that the ride height is limited and you cannot get full SUV height. I guess they thought no one would buy them and want the std US ride height.