code 1155
#1
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Thread Starter
code 1155
hey fellas bent some time since ive post, weather is getting nice here in VA so i decided to tackle my too rich situation on my 95 993 tippy. i was going to change my o2 sensor, when i pulled it out (i tried starting car to c if problem was still there) raw feul came out. car is hard to start and just pumps out gas cloudes. ive changed the injector and still have the same problem. i looked up the code and it said injector valve 5. what does this mean? I have a hard time believing that #5 injectors is stuck open because it did this before i changed my injectors. ill check the wire harnes to see if theres a short in it but any help will be welcomed
Last edited by S4-on-your-back-door; 04-15-2008 at 10:30 PM.
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
im coming to the concusion that it probbly the wiring harness as mine has never been changed and the P.O has electrical tape around it. does anyone know were i can buy one outside of going to the stealer for it?
#4
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I would ring the local dealer to see if this recall campaign is still active. I would think it is. This is a freebee harness replacement.
#5
Rennlist Member
In the mean time, unclip the electric connection from inj. #5. plug an ohms meter in the clip and run the engine. If you've been there before, you do not have to remove the air filter base, reach for it. If this is the culprit, the engine should run differently and the gauge should be reading from 2 to 15.9 Ohms, or 2 to 9 volts depending on ohms or DC reading. If the scale is reading constant, your injector is electricaly staying open. Normally, the reading should be erratic, and signal dependant.
#6
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Thread Starter
Well I'm stumped, I've changed the wiring harness (wat a mess it was) and still car just belches gas. I've tried disconnecting injector 5 (received code 1155, injector valve 5) still same problem. Disconnecter MAF and no change at all, no difference in how the car ran. Question, could it be a bad MAF? I had one go bad before on another car but car would run lean not rich like this and if you disconnet it the car would idle in surges not like this car is doing.NEED HELP FROM SOME OF YOU GURUS OUT THERE.
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#8
Rennlist Member
A good first step is to pull your MAF, and clean the thin film plate with CRC cleaner. While that is out, test your wrist articulation and use carb cleaner to clean the two butterfly valves where they seat in the throttle body bores ( use a stick to push the throttle wide open by running the drivers seat ahead)
If nothing improved, I would then be inclined to try the MAF in another car if possible, before shelling out for a new one: I swapped suspect MAFs and LH modules from other poor running cars into my (ex) 928S4 - the test is immediate and conclusive.
As far as dying MAFs, I've observed lean, rich, cycling idle (400 - 1600rpm), and everything inbetween - at least for the hot platinum wire type ( which the 993 is not) - the point being is that a dying/fouled MAF can trick the DME/LH into doing a variety of nasties .....
If nothing improved, I would then be inclined to try the MAF in another car if possible, before shelling out for a new one: I swapped suspect MAFs and LH modules from other poor running cars into my (ex) 928S4 - the test is immediate and conclusive.
As far as dying MAFs, I've observed lean, rich, cycling idle (400 - 1600rpm), and everything inbetween - at least for the hot platinum wire type ( which the 993 is not) - the point being is that a dying/fouled MAF can trick the DME/LH into doing a variety of nasties .....