jaholmes

I have dropped my engine and need to do the SAI flush and would like to change the distributor belt, but I can't figure out the order of operation.

I don't think my SAI passages are overly clogged but by reading the SAI DIY's it sounds like you may need to rotate the engine to open / close some of the valves to get air passing through the passages.

So how do you rotate the engine. Do you just put a wrench on the alternator housing, or is it lower in the engine.

The other part about the Distributor Belt DIY is to find TDC, but others have said just mark it and pull it. But if I mark and pull it and then mess with the SAI by rotating the engine, will I loose my place.

Maybe I should forget the Distributor belt and do it later. Or just do one at a time so it doesn't disturb the other.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

AOW162435

Jim,
Socket & long breaker bar on the crank bolt.


Andreas

Robin 993DX

You can turn the engine with the crank pulley bolt or from the alternator bolt, if you turn the engine from the alternator bolt just squeeze the belt with your fingers, it will drive the crank pulley. That's the method to turn the engine by hand when it is still in the car. Make sure you turn it by clockwise rotation, try not to turn it backwards if possible. Of course you probably already know not to turn the crank shaft shaft after you have removed the distributor.

jaholmes

Robin,
The last part answers my question. Don't rotate the motor when the distributor is out...I didn't know

I guess it's do it one at a time.

RPW

Jim, the air injection ports are in the exhaust port. No need to turn the engine while cleaning them.

Slow Guy

The only reason you would need to rotate the valve train is if you were going to close off some of the cylinders to force more air out other clogged/slow flowing cylinders. Since you have the engine dropped you'll have the system split 3/3 very easily by removing the AL tubing on the front of the engine. If you still need to block off cylinders I suspect you could fabricate other means without rotating the valve train.

jaholmes

By fabricating, this may be the rubber stopper solution right. Also, with the engine out I do have a lot of room to maneuver and remove things. I was planning on removing the heat exchangers at a minimum.

Thanks,

Slow Guy

Yes, you would pretty much have to remove the HE's to see which cyl's (SAI ports) are flowing and which aren't. Taking that front aluminum pipe off, splitting the SAI system into left bank and right bank (3 & 3) will make a huge difference.

I wouldn't try the rubber stopper method unless you find all your solvent/airflow is going out the other 2 cyls. and you're not making progress out the 3rd. It just seems too much work if it's not really needed.