OT-Lawn mowers.....VW style...or am I just a redneck...
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I have a pretty nasty competition going with my neighbor...he is always one up'n me on the lawn. does the zigs and tha zags..bought the latest and greatest honda mower....is pretty much the poster guy for the perfect lawn...I travel all the time and my lawn looks like the amazon jungle. I probably could keep a biologist busy for weeks tryin to identify all the different types of weeds growin in the grassy area in front of my house ....
I have more fun workin on my car/garage than in the yard...so, for this season I was thinking of building a high performance riding lawn mower that can cut and haul a$$....but want to keep it in the german family. I have access to an old bug that has a busted tranny and a snapper rider.
for all the engineers out there, do you think its possible to put a VW bug flat 4 on a snapper rider-given that there will be a ton of fabrication involved....My thoughts is fabricating the engine directly to the existing tranny/drive system from Snapper? Since the engine is mounted behind the seat and not directly under the seat, there may be some room to work with. Plus you can add weight to the front to counter balance. If I can't have a good lookin lawn, I can at least have a blast cuttin it, and layin some kick a$$ burn outs on the street in front of the house....yea, I'll be drinkin cold beer too....if he has the best lawn, I will at least have to coolest ridin mower in town...
Or is this the most ignorant post that you ever have read? Perhaps my southern up-bringing is over-taking my ability to reason....
Snapper Mower+VW Engine= My Redneck tendencies....
I have more fun workin on my car/garage than in the yard...so, for this season I was thinking of building a high performance riding lawn mower that can cut and haul a$$....but want to keep it in the german family. I have access to an old bug that has a busted tranny and a snapper rider.
for all the engineers out there, do you think its possible to put a VW bug flat 4 on a snapper rider-given that there will be a ton of fabrication involved....My thoughts is fabricating the engine directly to the existing tranny/drive system from Snapper? Since the engine is mounted behind the seat and not directly under the seat, there may be some room to work with. Plus you can add weight to the front to counter balance. If I can't have a good lookin lawn, I can at least have a blast cuttin it, and layin some kick a$$ burn outs on the street in front of the house....yea, I'll be drinkin cold beer too....if he has the best lawn, I will at least have to coolest ridin mower in town...
Or is this the most ignorant post that you ever have read? Perhaps my southern up-bringing is over-taking my ability to reason....
Snapper Mower+VW Engine= My Redneck tendencies....
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LOL !
I don't think you got the right chassis though.
Check out this site : http://www.letsmow.com or google racing mower and you'll see some cool looking mowers.
Then you'll have to put a helmet and driving suit to mow your lawn.
I don't think you got the right chassis though.
Check out this site : http://www.letsmow.com or google racing mower and you'll see some cool looking mowers.
Then you'll have to put a helmet and driving suit to mow your lawn.
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#11
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My friends brother once put a cycle motor on a sitdown mower and used the arm that lowered the mowing deck as the sequential shift lever. I will post a pic tonight if I can find one. I clocked him at 45 mph on the street beside my car!!! BTW love the half bath!!!!
Last edited by Cactus; 03-23-2008 at 04:59 PM.
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Don't ask me how I know this but the best way to accomplish grafting a VW flat four to a Snapper is to build a subframe to hold the engine and weld or bolt it up to the existing Snapper frame.
Reverse the engine's usual orientation 180 degrees so that the fan belt pulley oriented toward the front of the mower. That way, power to the mower transaxle can be transmitted via a series of two connected belt drives from the engine crankshaft to the mower. That way, you don't have to worry about horizontal alignment of the engine to the transaxle and can let the engine sit up higher. Note that this means the existing exhaust will also have to be turned 180 degrees to exit from the rear of the mower.
Since you don't have a transmission upon which to mount the starter, you'll need to build a starter bracket onto the subframe, but it should be fairly simple to match the starter drive to the teeth in the flywheel.
You'll also need to know what RPM the original Briggs and Stratton ran and govern your flat four to a similar RPM. Otherwise the Snapper tranny will blow. High RPM isn't that important anyway since you'll have all that extra torque over the Briggs and Stratton. If you need to increase blade speed or tranny speed, simply rework the size of the power pully on the engine.
You can overcome the weight distribution issue by adding a third axle and couple of freewheeling tires under the rear of the engine subframe thus negating the use of ballast on the front end. Also, mount your battery up front to aid in weight distribution. No matter what you do, the steering will be faairly "light" and will require significant "anticipation" as manuevers are accomplished (Think massive understeer).
A full five-point harness and roll bar wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Terry
Reverse the engine's usual orientation 180 degrees so that the fan belt pulley oriented toward the front of the mower. That way, power to the mower transaxle can be transmitted via a series of two connected belt drives from the engine crankshaft to the mower. That way, you don't have to worry about horizontal alignment of the engine to the transaxle and can let the engine sit up higher. Note that this means the existing exhaust will also have to be turned 180 degrees to exit from the rear of the mower.
Since you don't have a transmission upon which to mount the starter, you'll need to build a starter bracket onto the subframe, but it should be fairly simple to match the starter drive to the teeth in the flywheel.
You'll also need to know what RPM the original Briggs and Stratton ran and govern your flat four to a similar RPM. Otherwise the Snapper tranny will blow. High RPM isn't that important anyway since you'll have all that extra torque over the Briggs and Stratton. If you need to increase blade speed or tranny speed, simply rework the size of the power pully on the engine.
You can overcome the weight distribution issue by adding a third axle and couple of freewheeling tires under the rear of the engine subframe thus negating the use of ballast on the front end. Also, mount your battery up front to aid in weight distribution. No matter what you do, the steering will be faairly "light" and will require significant "anticipation" as manuevers are accomplished (Think massive understeer).
A full five-point harness and roll bar wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Terry