shamrock

I drove the 45 minutes home from my workplace this afternoon , stopped off for a fuel fill and oil level check. Car started again , and drove a 5 minute drive to take me back home again. I stopped the car in my drive and asked my wife to come out and key the ignition so I could see if the vario actuators were doing their job (see separate thread!!). She called to me that she couldn't start the car , so I pressed the immobiliser button again and tried it myself .. Nothing / Nada/ nihil .

The cars remote works fine (locks/unlocks the doors) , it also 'seems' to be turning on and off the immobiliser (makes a click and the hazards on the dash flash their usual couple of times) , but the car doesn't turn over .. just a 'clunk' type sound when the key is turned to the farthest right position.

The car is a '96 vario , it's got a PA1000 alarm /immobiliser (of which I know nothing!) and it's just had a new Bosch silver top car battery last week.

I have left the car about an hour to cool , I've locked and unlocked the car a few times using the remote , and still nothing.
I'm (excuse the pun) currently trickle charging the battery with an 'Optimate' charger , so I'm going to leave it over night and see what happens tomorrow.

In terms of battery drain , the car gets used about 3 times a week and is usually run for over 30 minutes each time the engine is started...

I don't think it's the usual Dme prob as I hear the car turns over but doesn't start when the Dme's kaput. I will however retrieve my spare relay from my pals house (don't ask!) if you guys feel that that's the problem..

Sorry for the long explanation but I'm trying to be as precise as I can be ...


HELP!!

Garth S

One can 'over immobilise' that intriguing system : with the car open and you in the drivers seat, does the red diode in the door sill flash when the key is turned to the run position - and the immob. button pushed ?--- in that order.

If that occurs, the starter relay should be ready to energize the solenoid. Anything else to add now is only conjecture ....

shamrock

Thans for answering Garth .. I've just tried this .. Sat in car , doors unlucked , key in engine turnover position , immobiliser pressed (get that familiar click and the hazards flash) but no flashing diode on door , and still just one 'clunk' from the ignition.

Garth S

Suspect that the immobilizer is still engaged: just for fun, try locking & unlocking the doors with the key - not the remote. This may set off the alarm, but that is not all bad - just kill the alarm with either key or remote. The local dealership had had a similar issue with a customers car when reprogramming remotes - they found that the door lock had to be physically turned from the 'sweet spot' to allow the cycle to reset. They did it by door panel removal - but a twist of the key cannot hurt.

davesnothere

When this happens, is the immobilizer light on the clock illuminated? (Looks like a mini fob w/ radio waves coming out)

If so, move the key to position 1, and press the button on the fob. The immobilizer light should go out, and then you should be able to start the car normally.

This happens to me occasionally (although my symptoms are not exactly yours, more like I didn't put the key in the ignition and start the car within X minutes of unlocking the doors), might be worth a shot.

As an aside: I think these immobilizers are cruel, cruel bits of engineering. Don't even get me started on the problems I've had with the one on my Volvo wagon! (Who's gonna steal a frickin Volvo wagon, fer chrissakes?!?)

- Dave

shamrock

No the light on the clock is out ...But thanks for the advice..

In the meantime , I've charged the battery overnight , it took around 8 hours to trickle to full charge so it doesn't look like it's a battery fault or a leak ...

Anyone else have these symptoms? ..
I'm feeling more and more certain that it's an immobiliser problem , does anyone have knowledge of pa1000 systems? ..

SJB993

If you are convinced it is an immobiliser issue, you could try giving the manufacturers of the system a call to see if they can help. Hamilton-Palmer is the company that developed the PA1000 for UK cars - their number is +44 1732 760022. Their website isn't much use, it just shows their contact info - www.hamilton-palmer.co.uk

They were very helpful when I had a question.

shamrock

Thanks Steve , I'll be giving them a shout alright! .. Going to try another few bits first , the problem is getting around to the car , with a new baby in the house requiring much attention!

any other hints/tips really welcome , it's a terrible pain in the **** having my beautiful car out of commission ....

shamrock

Update!

Yahoo ... The car has just started first time this morning .. I'm going to have to get to the bottom of this though as I don't want to get stranded somewhere ...


ah .. The highs and lows of it all!!

Garth S

As a precaution, a fresh battery in the remote is not a bad idea, if not already done ( + a spare & small phillips screwdriver in the glove box).

95 C4 993

Two spare batteries and a spare immolizer.

I Dropped my keys 1x, immobilizer quite working.

Terry Adams

When I go on a long remote trip, eg 4500 miles r.t. to Canadian rockies, I put a spare key and immobilizer in a Ziplok bag, inside the rear bumperette. When my wife is along, she gets the spare for her purse.

g_murray

Keep your car battery fully charged.

Change the battery in the remote/fob at least once if not twice a year -- trust me, it's very cheap anti-frustration insurance.

Keep a spare remote/fob (with a fresh battery) 'handy'. Do NOT have it IN the car. If one doesn't 'work' - you have a plan B. When going on 'long trips' bring the spare remote/fob with you - and keep it on your person at all times.

Sometimes - like we drop our keys or our cellphone -- we drop our remote/fob (it happens) and 'assume' that it's OK. Sometimes you cannot assume!

When you're in the car and turning on the ignition to start - turn the key to the various 'clicks' slowly. You'll hear such items as the 'buzzing' of the ABS pump and the fuel pump etc. as the various 'ancillary electrical items' come to life. Make sure you FULLY turn the key to engage the starter. If you try and start it with the 'red immobilizer light on' - then you have to go ALL the way BACK to the '0' position - with the key - THEN blip off the immobilizer -- before you can start (again) to cycle thru' the various 'key stops' before truly starting her.

It could also be possible that the bulb that illuminates the 'immobilizer indicator' on the dash -- is blown or lose -- and it's really ON ...but you can't see that it's on. Thus you think it's off - and it then drives you nuts.

My $0.02,

Gerry

shamrock

Thanks for all those suggestions folks , interesting reading ....

I've started and driven my car at least 5 times today without a hitch , the remote key works from at least 10-15 feet from the car so I reckon it's a good batt but will replace anyway . I had my car's battery checked today and got a 'fully serviceable' report ,so it's not that .

Further thinking has made me feel it's not in fact the immobiliser . When I try to start the car with the immobiliser on I get absolutely nothing when the key is turned , but yesterday I could hear (and feel) that 'clunk' sound when I turned the key.

Could it be that my starter motor may be on the way out ?..


At any rate , it was fantastic to have such 'community support' when I needed it (it's a lonely place here in Ireland with just one Porsche centre in the country!) ..
I thank you all , it's great being a member here.

SJB993

I guess the moral of the story is not to let your wife anywhere near the driver's seat?