shamrock

I think I've scared her off for life! .. That was the first time she sat in drivers seat , and I'm betting it's also the last!

Bruce SEA 993

Two questions....

Maybe I am off base on this one but could it be a DME relay that is intermittent?

edit: (Sorry, re-read shamrock's original post and he eliminated the DME as it doesn't trun over.)

What is the battery number or code for the battery in the remote...I am going to replace mine just for a peace of mind exercise!

Thanks

Greg H.

Shamrock -

I've been having intermittent starting problems for awhile. Mine is generally when I try to restart the warm car after a short period - like getting gas. It doesn't happen regularly enough to figure out the cause but I have been successful cycling through the lock/unlock sequence several times (sometimes lots of times) in varying combinations of: with the key in the igntion, with the key turned half way on and with the key out of the ignition. I don't know which one or combination is actually allowing the car to start.

As to the cause, I am thinking it's either the immobilizer, my ecu (which has been modified and I was told can be the problem by Loren) or I read in the archives about someone having a problem with their fuel pump, which sees too much resistance and will send a no-start signal somewhere. I am not sure, but it seems like my problem is hot weather related and the resistance theory could be something to follow up on.

Greg H.

Garth S

one answer battery MN21 or A23, or sometimes referred to as 21/23.

shamrock

Thanks Greg , I tried a few different combinations this morning too before starting the car , door lock / ignition + immobiliser on off etc.

When this happens to you does the engine turn over , or do you get a click , a clunk or nothing at all!!??
I think that if it were the immobiliser , I'd not have gotten that 'clunk' sound.

By the way , from this afternoon , I have in my glove box ..

One DME
One set of micro screwdrivers
One replacement key fob battery
Three R286 (Euro spec) bulbs for the dash ***** .... (I've already replaced the headlight bulb in my car and two other 993's that I've met along the way!!)
Two ballast resistors Part No. 993-616-521-01
One Wiper bush Part No. 964-628-270-01 ..... (both of which will be work upon at a pals house , hense the need to carry em)

Look at the monster you guys have created

matt777

It's possible. They tend to get flaky when they are hot. As a regular maintenance task, I would check all power connections (clean/tighten) and ground connections.
What is your battery voltage? It should be over 13 volts.

Greg H.

Ahh, I missed the part about a clunk. I do not get a clunk. Sounds like you are right, your problem is not the same as mine and is probably not the immobilizer. Does the clunk sound like it's the starter engaging? I know Steve W has said he's seen corrosion on the engine end of the negative battery cable. Not turning over, but the starter showing some signs of life, means not enough battery power or a starter problem, in my experience.

Greg H.

Chuck W.

A little over a year ago I had trouble with the 993. At times it would start and other times it wouldn’t. It ended up being the grounding strap from the negative side of the battery. Out of site, out of mind. They get gunked up and don't make a good contact. Just something to look at. Good luck...

shamrock

Guys , in talking of the neg cable connection from the batt ,I presume you're referring to the cable that runs from the battery to the lower inner wing. I checked this when I changed out the batt a short while ago , and checked again this afternoon , it's completely clean , no gunk or corrosion whatsoever ...
It's kinda pointing to a glitchy starter motor unfortunately!!

Thanks again all.. Great place.

Greg H.

I haven't looked - where does the other end of the negative strap hook up to?

Greg H.

Garth S

Now that your car is starting, let's go back to the beginning: does the door red diode ( and icon in the clock face) flash as the immobilizer is disabled prior to starting? They were not doing so previously when the starter 'clunked'.
If the flashing now occurs, I would not suspect the starter as a primary cause.

shamrock

By the way , it begs the questions;

should a starter motor that's on the way out sound any different?
Is the motor easy to get to and should I be able to see any external evidence of a motor on it's last legs?

I reckon whats happening is that my battery is able to power the starter when I've completely charged it overnight but it can't turn the motor when it's any bit down on voltage .. Does that sound reasonable?

shamrock

I'm not sure I understand you here Garth, my diodes only flash when the alarm/immob is engaged .. Once I unlock the doors , the immob is also shut off and the diodes stop flashing. I suspect my alarm/immob system was retrofitted as there's also a (rather crude looking!) red diode that flashes on the lower central console .. This light then stays on constant when the immob automatically comes back on again if the ignition isn't started after about say 20 seconds. My clock icon isn't lit at any stage so it's either not been included in the system fit or the bulbs kaput.

shamrock

You need to realise that I'm a technical inebriate .. I guess you can see that by now anyway!!

SJB993

I don't think your alarm/immobiliser is a retro fit - I too have the second led on the lower console.

I'm sure I read somewhere that the UK motor insurance industry wasn't happy with the OEM alarm/immobiliser, and therefore Porsche UK enhanced it in conjunction with Hamilton & Palmer (a company that specialises in alarms/immobilisers).

Does yours have a separate immobiliser dongle thing that you have to insert into a keyhole to the right of the clock on the dash (as well as the keyfob)? My '96 Coupe has this, but my '97 Targa didn't.