Remote/ Locking Issues
05-09-2008, 11:28 AM
#16
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*UPDATE*
Yep. I'm screwed. The immobilizer refuses all communication from the remote and opening the car with the key, obviously, sets off the alarm.
Knowing that my immobilizer is probably fried, wouldn't I be better off going ahead and ordering the replacement and handling the exchange myself? The dealership had the same problems that I did before, so I feel uneasy about paying someone else to walk in my footsteps only to come to the same conclusion. The replacement of the unit is pretty much a plug-n-play process, I believe. Has anyone else gone through this procedure?
BTW, Monte Cristo, if yours is a '96, you don't have to get under the seat. That's only necessary for the '94. You have to do the "German Two Step" in the ignition.
Yep. I'm screwed. The immobilizer refuses all communication from the remote and opening the car with the key, obviously, sets off the alarm.
Knowing that my immobilizer is probably fried, wouldn't I be better off going ahead and ordering the replacement and handling the exchange myself? The dealership had the same problems that I did before, so I feel uneasy about paying someone else to walk in my footsteps only to come to the same conclusion. The replacement of the unit is pretty much a plug-n-play process, I believe. Has anyone else gone through this procedure?
BTW, Monte Cristo, if yours is a '96, you don't have to get under the seat. That's only necessary for the '94. You have to do the "German Two Step" in the ignition.
josh
05-09-2008, 03:40 PM
#17
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In my case (1997 993 2S), the symptoms that I had were
1. immobilizer still works but alarm would not arm
2. using remote would only cause red lights to blinks
3. central lock does not work
4. hood light does not come on
5. cabin lights do not come on when door is opened
I tried the following things to root cause my problem
1. Check fuses in the fuse box - all were OK
2. Removed passenger seat to get at alarm control unit (PN 928 618 260 03). Check fuse which was OK.
3. Swapped out lock element/actuator in the driver door with a good used unit. This did not improve situation.
4. Disconnected the alarm control unit from the connectors and took a closer look (actually a closer smell. I could smell a hint of electronic burnt. Replaced with new unit and now things are back to normal.
1. immobilizer still works but alarm would not arm
2. using remote would only cause red lights to blinks
3. central lock does not work
4. hood light does not come on
5. cabin lights do not come on when door is opened
I tried the following things to root cause my problem
1. Check fuses in the fuse box - all were OK
2. Removed passenger seat to get at alarm control unit (PN 928 618 260 03). Check fuse which was OK.
3. Swapped out lock element/actuator in the driver door with a good used unit. This did not improve situation.
4. Disconnected the alarm control unit from the connectors and took a closer look (actually a closer smell. I could smell a hint of electronic burnt. Replaced with new unit and now things are back to normal.
05-11-2008, 06:38 PM
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*Update*
My situation hasn't changed much, except that I'm MUCH more aware/knowledgeable of my options (or the lack there of). Josh, I'm not sure if my situation is identical to yours but I'll post some more details for your review.
Prior to the failure I noticed a an increase in the response time to the depressed button. The LED on the remote lit, but the car took 1-5 seconds to respond. That didn't vary with distance, either. Most times I was 6 inches away from the door. This developed over the past 2 weeks, but not with any increase of severity. (unless you consider total failure as severe)
The all interior lights still work perfectly. My central lock system worked with the remote until the failure. The alarm arms perfectly with manual key use in the door. The only preexisting conditions to note would be, a.) the central lock control inside the car (the center console switch) has never worked since I've owned the car, and b.) after numerous attempts, by both me and the dealer, the "immobilizer" refused to go into "calibration mode" to add remotes.
Here's what I've learned. (And PLEASE, if anyone knows something contrary to my views, bring it to my attention. Conjecture, hearsay, rumor and gossip seem to be the only way to learn about these "black box" features...and the truth comes slowly.) The "immobilizer", as a component, doesn't exist. It's a feature set that's integral to the DME and alarm system. And it's literally a "system" made up of numerous parts; sensors, controllers and relays made specifically for vehicles equipped with the anti-drive off feature. The term immobilizer controller and alarm control unit seem to e used interchangeably. You can't eliminate the immobilizer without changing out the DME and the radio controller. Ironically, when I called the parts dept. at my local dealership and asked for the price/availability of an immobilizer, he quoted $1290. Isn't that just the price of a replacement Motronic DME/ECM??!! I failed to get the referenced part number, so I can't confirm. Regardless, if I'm right, I might as well have asked them to have the Easter Bunny deliver it to my door, because both the part and the delivery method would be equally fictitious.
As I progress through this project, I feel more and more like a nimrod asking amazingly stupid questions.
I've pulled both seats and checked connections to the ECM, the radio unit and the alarm control module. All look normal and operational. So that leaves me with 2 possible issues; internal component anomalies (alarm control module is #1 suspect) or a malfunction in my only programmed remote. The unusual LED flashing on the remote makes me lean toward that as the primary culprit, but the inability to operate the central lock and calibrate leaves the alarm control unit in the same light. Hell, I don't know anymore!
As it stands, I can't think of anything else to do. I'll probably connect my PC and check for OBD error codes. Otherwise, I'll probably tow the car to the dealership tomorrow. *sigh*
Rufstuf, mind if I ask how much your replacement alarm control module cost?
My situation hasn't changed much, except that I'm MUCH more aware/knowledgeable of my options (or the lack there of). Josh, I'm not sure if my situation is identical to yours but I'll post some more details for your review.
Prior to the failure I noticed a an increase in the response time to the depressed button. The LED on the remote lit, but the car took 1-5 seconds to respond. That didn't vary with distance, either. Most times I was 6 inches away from the door. This developed over the past 2 weeks, but not with any increase of severity. (unless you consider total failure as severe)
The all interior lights still work perfectly. My central lock system worked with the remote until the failure. The alarm arms perfectly with manual key use in the door. The only preexisting conditions to note would be, a.) the central lock control inside the car (the center console switch) has never worked since I've owned the car, and b.) after numerous attempts, by both me and the dealer, the "immobilizer" refused to go into "calibration mode" to add remotes.
Here's what I've learned. (And PLEASE, if anyone knows something contrary to my views, bring it to my attention. Conjecture, hearsay, rumor and gossip seem to be the only way to learn about these "black box" features...and the truth comes slowly.) The "immobilizer", as a component, doesn't exist. It's a feature set that's integral to the DME and alarm system. And it's literally a "system" made up of numerous parts; sensors, controllers and relays made specifically for vehicles equipped with the anti-drive off feature. The term immobilizer controller and alarm control unit seem to e used interchangeably. You can't eliminate the immobilizer without changing out the DME and the radio controller. Ironically, when I called the parts dept. at my local dealership and asked for the price/availability of an immobilizer, he quoted $1290. Isn't that just the price of a replacement Motronic DME/ECM??!! I failed to get the referenced part number, so I can't confirm. Regardless, if I'm right, I might as well have asked them to have the Easter Bunny deliver it to my door, because both the part and the delivery method would be equally fictitious.
As I progress through this project, I feel more and more like a nimrod asking amazingly stupid questions.
I've pulled both seats and checked connections to the ECM, the radio unit and the alarm control module. All look normal and operational. So that leaves me with 2 possible issues; internal component anomalies (alarm control module is #1 suspect) or a malfunction in my only programmed remote. The unusual LED flashing on the remote makes me lean toward that as the primary culprit, but the inability to operate the central lock and calibrate leaves the alarm control unit in the same light. Hell, I don't know anymore!
As it stands, I can't think of anything else to do. I'll probably connect my PC and check for OBD error codes. Otherwise, I'll probably tow the car to the dealership tomorrow. *sigh*
Rufstuf, mind if I ask how much your replacement alarm control module cost?
05-12-2008, 02:13 AM
#20
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I have a similar problem:
1. I cannot lock the car with the key or the fob. When I try, I get a little click. If I try again, the doors lock and rapidly unlcock and then the horn honks momentarily.
2. From inside, I can lock the doors with the switch on the console.
3. The fob will deactivate the immobilizer properly.
It is #2 that has me puzzled. If the relays were bad, the inside switch shouldn't lock the doors either.
1. I cannot lock the car with the key or the fob. When I try, I get a little click. If I try again, the doors lock and rapidly unlcock and then the horn honks momentarily.
2. From inside, I can lock the doors with the switch on the console.
3. The fob will deactivate the immobilizer properly.
It is #2 that has me puzzled. If the relays were bad, the inside switch shouldn't lock the doors either.
05-12-2008, 08:57 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
I have a similar problem:
1. I cannot lock the car with the key or the fob. When I try, I get a little click. If I try again, the doors lock and rapidly unlcock and then the horn honks momentarily.
2. From inside, I can lock the doors with the switch on the console.
3. The fob will deactivate the immobilizer properly.
It is #2 that has me puzzled. If the relays were bad, the inside switch shouldn't lock the doors either.
1. I cannot lock the car with the key or the fob. When I try, I get a little click. If I try again, the doors lock and rapidly unlcock and then the horn honks momentarily.
2. From inside, I can lock the doors with the switch on the console.
3. The fob will deactivate the immobilizer properly.
It is #2 that has me puzzled. If the relays were bad, the inside switch shouldn't lock the doors either.
I could hear that actuator not clicking when I pressed the lock button. Try that.
Part 928-624-211-00
05-12-2008, 05:37 PM
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Central alarm control modules go for about $250 brand new, but thanks for the tip full booker!
I just got off the phone with Jeff from Sunset Imports in Portland, OR and am I impressed. Not only did he respond to my request quickly, but he REALLY knew his stuff, patiently listened to my ordeal and offered sound advice. In my experience, people like this are very hard to find and a fantastic resource. Without sounding like a paid advertisement, please give these guys a call for anything...and ask for Jeff. Tell him you heard about him on Rennlist!
I just got off the phone with Jeff from Sunset Imports in Portland, OR and am I impressed. Not only did he respond to my request quickly, but he REALLY knew his stuff, patiently listened to my ordeal and offered sound advice. In my experience, people like this are very hard to find and a fantastic resource. Without sounding like a paid advertisement, please give these guys a call for anything...and ask for Jeff. Tell him you heard about him on Rennlist!
12-14-2014, 09:49 AM
#24
Search for my old post below as it has some pictures that may help explain why the alarm control unit fails. It's just one possibility, but not an obvious one.
11-18-2014, 03:46 PM #11
NoRush993/951
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 92
The alarm control unit is part # 928-618-260-03. It is under the passenger seat.
It may not be bad yet. It takes time for it to fry. You are looking for the open part of the circuit which prevents your remotes from activating. It can be several things. Check all your fuses first.
I put up with this situation of the car not locking for over a year until I could get to it. It started at about 45k miles and was an intermittent problem at first. You might be able to simply determine if the steering lock spring is the issue by starting your car, turning it off, and then engaging the steering lock mechanism. Try to lock the car. If it doesn't work, try again. It might take 5-6 times and you might get the fob to work on occasion. If it does work once in a while when doing this, then you know it is the spring in the steering lock ignition switch. (pictures attached). When the key is inserted and turned to start the car, the button on the end of the steering lock pushes in. Turn the car off and remove the key and the button pops back out. There is a spring within this arm that pushes the button back out and it locks your steering wheel and completes the electrical circuit that is required to activate the door locking mechanism and the alarm. This spring simply gets tired and wears out over time. I was not able to source just the spring.
I also started to get some faint sound bleed thru from the door alarm buzzer when the key was removed. So the system thought the key was still in the ignition when it wasn't. This occurred about a year after the locking issue started, so it took some time for the extra sound to occur. When that happened it finally dawned on me that it was the steering lock which includes the door buzzer. The alarm had fried out in the middle of that year and I had the Porsche dealer replace and reprogram it. The dealer did not diagnose the ignition lock issue and the fobs did work for about two weeks after returning from dealer service which occurred at the hottest temps of Summer (so the spring was most elastic at that point).
The steering lock part # is 96434791700 and is keyed to your car based on your VIN #. I ordered thru Pelican. The buzzer switch is included, so you don't need that part. However you will need 2 shear bolts # 999-219-017-02-M100 and screw # 99921902402. Look at the schematic. I removed the lower part of the dash first to access everything. The top shear bolt is the only hard to reach part of the process. The alarm settings are unaffected by this lock swap out.
It can be several other things that prevent the circuit from closing and the fob's from activating the locking mechanism, so read thru all the previous posts that are listed here. It can be one of the more frustrating problems to diagnose on your own....... Please post your solution when solved.
Best of luck!
Attached Images
11-18-2014, 03:46 PM #11
NoRush993/951
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 92
The alarm control unit is part # 928-618-260-03. It is under the passenger seat.
It may not be bad yet. It takes time for it to fry. You are looking for the open part of the circuit which prevents your remotes from activating. It can be several things. Check all your fuses first.
I put up with this situation of the car not locking for over a year until I could get to it. It started at about 45k miles and was an intermittent problem at first. You might be able to simply determine if the steering lock spring is the issue by starting your car, turning it off, and then engaging the steering lock mechanism. Try to lock the car. If it doesn't work, try again. It might take 5-6 times and you might get the fob to work on occasion. If it does work once in a while when doing this, then you know it is the spring in the steering lock ignition switch. (pictures attached). When the key is inserted and turned to start the car, the button on the end of the steering lock pushes in. Turn the car off and remove the key and the button pops back out. There is a spring within this arm that pushes the button back out and it locks your steering wheel and completes the electrical circuit that is required to activate the door locking mechanism and the alarm. This spring simply gets tired and wears out over time. I was not able to source just the spring.
I also started to get some faint sound bleed thru from the door alarm buzzer when the key was removed. So the system thought the key was still in the ignition when it wasn't. This occurred about a year after the locking issue started, so it took some time for the extra sound to occur. When that happened it finally dawned on me that it was the steering lock which includes the door buzzer. The alarm had fried out in the middle of that year and I had the Porsche dealer replace and reprogram it. The dealer did not diagnose the ignition lock issue and the fobs did work for about two weeks after returning from dealer service which occurred at the hottest temps of Summer (so the spring was most elastic at that point).
The steering lock part # is 96434791700 and is keyed to your car based on your VIN #. I ordered thru Pelican. The buzzer switch is included, so you don't need that part. However you will need 2 shear bolts # 999-219-017-02-M100 and screw # 99921902402. Look at the schematic. I removed the lower part of the dash first to access everything. The top shear bolt is the only hard to reach part of the process. The alarm settings are unaffected by this lock swap out.
It can be several other things that prevent the circuit from closing and the fob's from activating the locking mechanism, so read thru all the previous posts that are listed here. It can be one of the more frustrating problems to diagnose on your own....... Please post your solution when solved.
Best of luck!
Attached Images
12-14-2014, 09:26 PM
#25
RL Community Team
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12-14-2014, 09:31 PM
#26
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[QUOTE=NoRush993/951;11875052]The alarm control unit is part # 928-618-260-03. It is under the passenger seat./QUOTE]
This is what it looks like
This is what it looks like
