RS man

Thanks everyone.
So in summary, there are 4 bolts which I will call "bolts with sunk hexagonal heads" for descriptive purposes (barrel nuts that you guys mention). They are reached with 8mm allen key heads. I cannot get my 3/8" drive socket into the H/E hole so I will most probably need to buy 1/4" bits.
As for the bolts that come out can you guys tell me the part nos for the 13mm nut and the barrel nut please.

Cheers.

Harry

Todynot

Gearing up for HE removal and wanted to ask if there’s ample space to get heat on all 12 nuts, even the 4 accessed through the holes.

Anyone tackle this recently?

TIA.

IHTFP

I did this recently and didn’t need any heat to get the fasteners off. Penetrating oil did the trick for me.

Todynot

^^^ OK, good to hear. Was that the first time they had been removed from the car...ever?

IHTFP

I’m not sure if they were ever removed before. I have done very extensive work under my car and have never had to use a torch on a nut. Removing the heat exchangers is challenging but it is more of an access/having the right tools type of issue.

Todynot

I have a M6 lift (new version of MaxJax) so at least I won't be laying on the ground, so that should help.

I'm pretty sure mine have never been off before and the last thing I want to deal with is broken stud. But I don't expect much rust.

Thanks again.

Mike J

Its rare that the barrel nuts have issues -'they cover the stud better and when undoing the torque is directly overhead. The nuts are another issue, definitely soak with a good penetrant and if possible wire brush the exposed threads to remove corrosion. If they do not budge, tighten them and then loosen repeatedly. The skill here is feeling that you do not exceed the yeild of the stud. They can break, but often it means they were previously overstressed in some way.

Best of luck!

Cheers


Mike