My car flunked the smog test. Please Help!!
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They are saying its flunking the computer test. There is no CEL on. The only issue I have is the odomoter is broken, but the speedometer works fine. Also the odomoter works fine in the on board computer. I did have a dead battery ahwile back. But this was several hundred miles ago. Any ideas on next steps??
Thanks for your help.
Steve
Thanks for your help.
Steve
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Sorry to hear your predicament....worrying I am sure but there is probably a simple explanation.......First thing I would do is take it to my friendly mechanic and ask him to hook it up to his Bosch hammer and look and see what is wrong....just cos the CEL has not gone off does not mean you you have a clean bill of health......it could even be as simple as your CEL bulb is gone so will not come on.....thats my first action.......there are bound to be some guys in your area that can help
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I searched through the threads and it looks like the dreaded readiness code issue, due to the dead battery. When I turn the ignition key on the CEL light does come on with all the other lights. It then goes off with all the other lights after the engine starts.
At the same time the OBDII cpu codes are reset, the "readiness codes" are also reset. The readiness code indicates whether each of the 8 system sensors have completed it's diagnostic check. So the inspection station doesn't see a trouble code but also sees that the readiness code is off (actually it reads more than "0").
Once the CE light is cleared the following readiness cycle can be followed to reset the code or you could drive the car for a while in a variety of situations that would allow each system to do it's thing:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.
Following the start engine phase the sequence of test conditions may interchange.
routine will be discontinued whenever:
Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
Large fluctuations in throttle angle
Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
At the same time the OBDII cpu codes are reset, the "readiness codes" are also reset. The readiness code indicates whether each of the 8 system sensors have completed it's diagnostic check. So the inspection station doesn't see a trouble code but also sees that the readiness code is off (actually it reads more than "0").
Once the CE light is cleared the following readiness cycle can be followed to reset the code or you could drive the car for a while in a variety of situations that would allow each system to do it's thing:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.
Following the start engine phase the sequence of test conditions may interchange.
routine will be discontinued whenever:
Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
Large fluctuations in throttle angle
Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
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"Several" hundred miles seems like the readiness codes would have reset by now, mine generally reset fine within a few trips to work and back.....I know in some stats not all the readiness codes need to reset for a pass but in yours you may need them all.......I guess go out and try the drive cycle......I think that has worked for a lot of others.......sorry, no other thoughts here, wait til the rest see this and I am sure somebody else will chime in
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What do you mean by "flunking"? Is the OBD-II communicating? Or does is it flagging the computer with a CEL code? Or are you flunking due to too high emmisions?
Seems that the test station could have given you more info. Since you have a 96, any scan tool could tell you if there is a code stored etc.
Seems that the test station could have given you more info. Since you have a 96, any scan tool could tell you if there is a code stored etc.
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It is the rediness code not set that's causing it to fail. See if you can get the number to call for the referee station and take your car there. Typically when you fail the SMOg test because of an OBD2 issue they should give you a phone number to call to setup an appointment at a referee station. It is a much easier way for you get get a SMOG and not to worry about all the parameters you have to reach in order for the readiness code to be set. I had my SMOG done at Rio Hondo college, they have a great crew there. Spent longer than expected as they were chatting about my 993.
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Call DMV and make an appointment with a smog referee station. They are usually at a Community College. It's cheap (take you receipt from the smog shop) fast and painless.... I know!
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Just in case you don't have the number to make an appointment at the referee station...here it is:
1-800-622-7733
Just as an fyi...I never go to the regular smog stations...just tell them that there is a BAR bulletin out on our cars and you'd prefer to set up an appointment directly with the referee station. For the most part, it's also cheaper than going directly to a smog only station.
Good Luck!
1-800-622-7733
Just as an fyi...I never go to the regular smog stations...just tell them that there is a BAR bulletin out on our cars and you'd prefer to set up an appointment directly with the referee station. For the most part, it's also cheaper than going directly to a smog only station.
Good Luck!
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Been there done that twice already. In 5K of driving I've been unable to reset the drive cycle. Not that I didn't try. You ideally need either a skid pad or a chassis dyno to duplicate the conditions needed. Trying to duplicate on the road is a PITA! and almost next to impossible due to driving conditions. I've spoke with the Buearu of Automotive Repair (BAR) and actually faxed them some of the threads from Rennlist on this topic to ensure that they were aware of the situation. So according to Ash looks like they have finally taken some actions which is good for all of us California owners.
Cheers!
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the "drive cylce" doesn't require any special test road to perform and thousands of miles won't do it unless you drive in a very odd manner at some point. You can accomplish the different things you need to get done at various times.
It doesn't have to be done in sequence, just cannot exceed 3K rpm or 60 mph throughout run.
It really isn't that hard... really, it isn't. I've done it twice now... The only thing I would recommend is buying a $40 OBDII reader from Harbor Freight (or wherever) so you can see when the codes are set to avoid multiple trips to the smog check station to find out if you got it done.
Other option as mentioned above is a referee station.
Search this forum for much more on the drive cycle. It has been discussed many times. The sequence you found and posted above will do it.
The smog check station should also be able to provide you with the drive cylce that resets the various readiness codes for this car.
It doesn't have to be done in sequence, just cannot exceed 3K rpm or 60 mph throughout run.
It really isn't that hard... really, it isn't. I've done it twice now... The only thing I would recommend is buying a $40 OBDII reader from Harbor Freight (or wherever) so you can see when the codes are set to avoid multiple trips to the smog check station to find out if you got it done.
Other option as mentioned above is a referee station.
Search this forum for much more on the drive cycle. It has been discussed many times. The sequence you found and posted above will do it.
The smog check station should also be able to provide you with the drive cylce that resets the various readiness codes for this car.
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Thanks everyone!!
The inspection report said it failed MIL/Check Engine light.
There is no CEL light on and the light is good. I tried doing the procedure in our lovely traffic in so cal and pissed everyone off while I am trying to drive under 60 and under 3k rpm's on the freeway. I got home and plugged in my INNOVA OBD2 scan tool. It still says no DTC's but it has a yellow light on and some of the monitor icons are flashing. I can't tell if the procedure worked or not. I should just say to hell with it and take it to a referee.
The inspection report said it failed MIL/Check Engine light.
There is no CEL light on and the light is good. I tried doing the procedure in our lovely traffic in so cal and pissed everyone off while I am trying to drive under 60 and under 3k rpm's on the freeway. I got home and plugged in my INNOVA OBD2 scan tool. It still says no DTC's but it has a yellow light on and some of the monitor icons are flashing. I can't tell if the procedure worked or not. I should just say to hell with it and take it to a referee.
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