New Garage Floor.... Ugh, My Back...
#32
Looks great you should go ahead and buy the polisher. I did the same lay out as you did and ended up polishing about every 7 weeks. You love the shine so much you want to maintain it. Good luch looks great.
Baron
Baron
#33
EEEEyup... Thanks. Just did my first strip/clean/repolish after about a year. It looks great save a little discoloration from tires on the new Lexus. My older tires on the 993 haven't left their footprint.
#35
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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I love the black and white checkers.. I have a plastic lego type garage floor.. looks great until the AZ heat + P-Car heat exchangers get to it... then its buckle city from there
#37
I just put race deck in my garage and put it down in 2 hours including moving my stuff out and back in.
It is more expensive but a lot easier.
It is more expensive but a lot easier.
#38
Rennlist Member
Thx for the post Chuck, I've been thinking about doing this for a while.
Just ordered samples from Armstrong... #57004 Safety Zone (textured) slate black under the cars to avoid tire scuffing and then do the perimeter in #57000 Safety Zone earth stone.
Just ordered samples from Armstrong... #57004 Safety Zone (textured) slate black under the cars to avoid tire scuffing and then do the perimeter in #57000 Safety Zone earth stone.
#39
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Can someone post a link to where I can get this stuff from?
What are the tiles made from (I can do a local area search....)
- looks great Chuck!
What are the tiles made from (I can do a local area search....)
- looks great Chuck!
#41
Rennlist Member
Matt - That combo sounds interesting. Can you post any links to the products you are using and any pictures the company may have showing them in use?
I'd love to see your drawn out plans as well if you have them and a way to post.
I'd love to see your drawn out plans as well if you have them and a way to post.
#42
Rennlist Member
Hey, Chuck!
Wow, your garage floor looks fantastic. Congrats & great job!
Rich
Wow, your garage floor looks fantastic. Congrats & great job!
Rich
#43
Rennlist Member
http://www.armstrong.com/commfloorin...sp?item_id=383
I would like to copy what this guy has done:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/281382/14
If you're going to use this product (Armstrong) this thread is worth reading all the way through (15 min):
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=11812
#44
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#45
Drifting
Note on 'cutting' and installing those Armstrong tiles...
I recently did the floor in our laundry room and storage room with those same Armstrong tiles. (I have installed many wood, tile, marble, travertine, etc. - you name it floors) I just saw a post on one of the links above to "warm up" the tile before cutting it. Folks, if the cut is straight, all you do is use a metal stratight edge and score the tile with a carpet knife with one, single stroke. You can then bend the tile along the scored mark and it 'breaks' perfect - almost as if it had been cut at the factory. Kind of like cutting driwall. You will kill yourself trying to cut that tile with a knife or heavy duty scissors or worse.
For angle cuts, you can use a pair of tin snips and make very small cuts along the lines that you marked with a pencil - sort of in a "nibbling" motion. Keep in mind that it's easier to 'take some off' than to put it back if you cut too far because it is easy to cut too far and then have it break off! (Most angle cuts are made to accomodate a wall edge - your nibbled cuts will likely be covered by kick molding) If you need a perfect edge on the cut, heat the tile per below and use a straight edge)
For curves or holes, I put the tile on the garage floor face up. I then used a metal can (coffee can, soup can, etc. depending on how big the hole needed to be) and held the can down tight with one hand. Use a propane torch to heat the tile up a bit being very careful to keep the flame moving around in a small area and then using the can as a guide cut it lilke a hot knoif thru butter a little at a time. Why a little at a time - you cannot heat the whole area to be cut up enough and retain the heat as you are carefully cutting. You can also use your torch to heat the tile to get it 'flat' in certain areas. If you burn it, use a little 220 grit or so followed by 400 grit to bring back the finish!!!
Note on the torch: use the lowest flame possible because the torch will want to extinguish itself otherwise due to it being held nearly on the horizontal.
Unlevel subfloor or marks on the floor: There's some neat stuff at Home Despot that you can mix and skim on to the subfloor to level out slight dips, indentations, etc. The stuff is awesome - it comes in a little box and it's called "FeatherEdge" or something like that. Use the straight edge of your mastic trowel to spread it. It's liek spreading driwall mud and it dries really fast. For really lo spots you will need to mix up some self leveling compound and fix your sub floor. Both these products require special mixing tools and equipment to properly handle. I have done it all +some - ask me about your specific scenarios or issues and maybe I can help you.
For angle cuts, you can use a pair of tin snips and make very small cuts along the lines that you marked with a pencil - sort of in a "nibbling" motion. Keep in mind that it's easier to 'take some off' than to put it back if you cut too far because it is easy to cut too far and then have it break off! (Most angle cuts are made to accomodate a wall edge - your nibbled cuts will likely be covered by kick molding) If you need a perfect edge on the cut, heat the tile per below and use a straight edge)
For curves or holes, I put the tile on the garage floor face up. I then used a metal can (coffee can, soup can, etc. depending on how big the hole needed to be) and held the can down tight with one hand. Use a propane torch to heat the tile up a bit being very careful to keep the flame moving around in a small area and then using the can as a guide cut it lilke a hot knoif thru butter a little at a time. Why a little at a time - you cannot heat the whole area to be cut up enough and retain the heat as you are carefully cutting. You can also use your torch to heat the tile to get it 'flat' in certain areas. If you burn it, use a little 220 grit or so followed by 400 grit to bring back the finish!!!
Note on the torch: use the lowest flame possible because the torch will want to extinguish itself otherwise due to it being held nearly on the horizontal.
Unlevel subfloor or marks on the floor: There's some neat stuff at Home Despot that you can mix and skim on to the subfloor to level out slight dips, indentations, etc. The stuff is awesome - it comes in a little box and it's called "FeatherEdge" or something like that. Use the straight edge of your mastic trowel to spread it. It's liek spreading driwall mud and it dries really fast. For really lo spots you will need to mix up some self leveling compound and fix your sub floor. Both these products require special mixing tools and equipment to properly handle. I have done it all +some - ask me about your specific scenarios or issues and maybe I can help you.