Jack Stands
#16
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There was a group buy for these things a long time ago...
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hlight=ac+jack
Maybe time for another one???
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hlight=ac+jack
Maybe time for another one???
Marc
Last edited by Marc Shaw; 11-04-2007 at 01:36 AM. Reason: added info
#17
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The flat top AC stands have been sold out for some time and it will be several more months before they are available again.
I am trying to modify a pair of the more typical AC stands with the u-shpaed tops. That is what I need feedback on.......
I am trying to modify a pair of the more typical AC stands with the u-shpaed tops. That is what I need feedback on.......
#18
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I think the rennline adaptors mount to the car. If you are using those, I suspect that you can use the normal U shaped jack stands. Would need to confirm that they would fit together well though. Let me know if you need a measurement on the jack stand saddle.
How much are the rennline adapters? If the price is right, I'm interested.
How much are the rennline adapters? If the price is right, I'm interested.
#19
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pp- they are 35.00 ea or 4 for 31 each
I did buy a pair of the normal stands with the "U" shaped saddle.
Since it is your belief that the Rennline part screws into the car at the jack points, one would certainly not want to have it welded to the shaft of the stand- or maybe that would be fine. What do you think?
But then if one ever wanted to lift the car by jacking from the center point (engine) then one would have a problem.
Or do you think that just cutting off the "U" bracket and replacing it with a 1/4" thick 4" round plate that one could epoxy on a hockey puck would be a better way to go?
I did buy a pair of the normal stands with the "U" shaped saddle.
Since it is your belief that the Rennline part screws into the car at the jack points, one would certainly not want to have it welded to the shaft of the stand- or maybe that would be fine. What do you think?
But then if one ever wanted to lift the car by jacking from the center point (engine) then one would have a problem.
Or do you think that just cutting off the "U" bracket and replacing it with a 1/4" thick 4" round plate that one could epoxy on a hockey puck would be a better way to go?
#20
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I wouldn't want it welded to the stand. I think that would be hard to locate when using it. In the rear, I jack up the car by the engine with a hockey puck on the jack. Then use jack stands on the jacking points, not on the engine.
I just cut a hockey puck to fit the u shaped saddle. I'd leave the welding on something as critical as this to the pros
I eventially gave in and bought flat top stands as well..![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Pete
I just cut a hockey puck to fit the u shaped saddle. I'd leave the welding on something as critical as this to the pros
I eventially gave in and bought flat top stands as well..
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Pete
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Got it- so the U shaped stands and the Rennline thing are not compatable?
I would have the 1/4" thick 4" steel disk welded by a pro, that is for sure..... and then use pucks on top
I would have the 1/4" thick 4" steel disk welded by a pro, that is for sure..... and then use pucks on top
#22
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I think they would be compatible. Need to make sure they fit together safely. Is the od of the jack stand less than the id of the rennline adaptor.
That said, the flat top jack stands are all around more useful. My U shaped stands don't get much use any more.
The Rennline adaptor would be useful for jacking up the front where the jacking points are hard to find and the jack saddle tends to interfere with the bodywork if you are not really careful.
That said, the flat top jack stands are all around more useful. My U shaped stands don't get much use any more.
The Rennline adaptor would be useful for jacking up the front where the jacking points are hard to find and the jack saddle tends to interfere with the bodywork if you are not really careful.
#23
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So are you suggesting that converting the u-shaped saddle to a flat top, if the diam of the new top is smaller than the Rennline piece, would be good because one could use a puck on the new top when necessary and the Rennline piece when supporting the car from the jack points....... I think that is what you are saying...... Would it be save to have the Rennline piece just sit on the new top of the stand- without being mechanically fastened?
#24
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Here is what I do. Your results may vary.
Jack the rear up by the engine with a hockey puck in the jack saddle.
Support the rear jack points with either flat top or u shaped jack stands with cut pucks
Jacking up the front, I would use the Rennline adaptor in the body of the car to get a nice safe lifting point for the jack. I don't have this, so I use a very carefully placed hockey put that I cut down in diameter. That is a pita.
Once it is high enough I put a jack stand on the other side of the front. Then I lower the front to the stand, move the jack to the center cross member and lift it again, and position both front jack stands in the front.
I do not use the u shaped stand without an adaptor or puck of some sort. If the rennline and the u shaped stands work well together, that would be a viable way to do it.
Hope that clarifies.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Pete
Jack the rear up by the engine with a hockey puck in the jack saddle.
Support the rear jack points with either flat top or u shaped jack stands with cut pucks
Jacking up the front, I would use the Rennline adaptor in the body of the car to get a nice safe lifting point for the jack. I don't have this, so I use a very carefully placed hockey put that I cut down in diameter. That is a pita.
Once it is high enough I put a jack stand on the other side of the front. Then I lower the front to the stand, move the jack to the center cross member and lift it again, and position both front jack stands in the front.
I do not use the u shaped stand without an adaptor or puck of some sort. If the rennline and the u shaped stands work well together, that would be a viable way to do it.
Hope that clarifies.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Pete
#25
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To all of you with the "U" shaped jack stands:
Since the flat top ones are so much more useful (and not available at this time) I have found a supplier of 3" diameter 1/4" thick still "disks". Cost is $6.00 per pair plus shipping. This is the same thickness as the steel "U" shape that we currently have. Take your existing posts and the disks to your nearby welder/muffler shop have them cut off the "U" and replace with a disk. Three inches is the diameter of hockey puck (this can be epoxied on) or you can used them with the Rennline plate shown on page one of this topic. The ID of the Rennline piece is about 3 1/8" so this can be used with those as well. From what I have gathered, this is the best solution to our needs.
Please let me know via e-mail if you are interested
ssarchi@sbcglobal.net
Since the flat top ones are so much more useful (and not available at this time) I have found a supplier of 3" diameter 1/4" thick still "disks". Cost is $6.00 per pair plus shipping. This is the same thickness as the steel "U" shape that we currently have. Take your existing posts and the disks to your nearby welder/muffler shop have them cut off the "U" and replace with a disk. Three inches is the diameter of hockey puck (this can be epoxied on) or you can used them with the Rennline plate shown on page one of this topic. The ID of the Rennline piece is about 3 1/8" so this can be used with those as well. From what I have gathered, this is the best solution to our needs.
Please let me know via e-mail if you are interested
ssarchi@sbcglobal.net
#26
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Noooooooo! I would not trust my bicycle with my local yahoo muffler shop!
Please by proper equipment, you do not want to cut any corners when working under 2000lbs, it's your life that were talking about.
Plus all the blood gets the floor dirty and the tools rusty.
Please by proper equipment, you do not want to cut any corners when working under 2000lbs, it's your life that were talking about.
Plus all the blood gets the floor dirty and the tools rusty.
#27
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OK, maybe not the local Midas. But any town with more that a few thousand people probably has a credentialed welder who knows what they're doing. It's welding not rocket science.
One thing to think about is the jacking points on any other cars you work on. I found that the round flat top wouldn't work on either my old Subaru or my wife's Audi.
One thing to think about is the jacking points on any other cars you work on. I found that the round flat top wouldn't work on either my old Subaru or my wife's Audi.
#28
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Thanks Jon for your calming words of wisdom.....
Besides, all modern bicycles are either silver soldered, brazed, tig'ed, bonded or molded- but that's just a small detail...
Besides, all modern bicycles are either silver soldered, brazed, tig'ed, bonded or molded- but that's just a small detail...