OT My college dream car
12-25-2007, 09:44 PM
#91
Three Wheelin'
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after I get rid of all the little gremlins I will bring the car to UACC for a complete paint job again. The previous shop who painted it 2 years ago did not do a great job. UACC was the shop that did BIG BIRD.I would like to get the feel of the car before I sink more $$$ to it. But so far I love it. I already got a few business cards on my windshield as well 
12-25-2007, 09:56 PM
#92
GT3 player par excellence
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where is UACC, alvin?
phone number, address?
phone number, address?
12-25-2007, 10:39 PM
#93
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12-26-2007, 12:56 PM
#94
Nordschleife Master
12-26-2007, 03:39 PM
#95
Two more things: getting an M3 down to 2400lbs will take some doing (though very possible) as the car weighs 2800 + lbs in stock trim. Also, the stock brakes are very marginal for a 192 HP car much less for one that puts out 240 +.
Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed my M3. It's a neat, unique car. However, even with after all the $$$ invested in Evo mods, it left me wanting. Back then, for the same money I could have bought a Boxster S. Let's face it, even the very best BMW is not the equal of Porsche. We're spoiled.
12-26-2007, 05:52 PM
#96
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Its not all for speed brothers All I wanted is dependable HP. I have enough cars in my stable that would do the job. I always believed that if you want to build something, either you build it right or not do it at all. If 220 or 240 is all Ill get with dependable hp. Ill be happy. put it this way, its better than 160whp
All I wanted is dependable HP. I have enough cars in my stable that would do the job. I always believed that if you want to build something, either you build it right or not do it at all. If 220 or 240 is all Ill get with dependable hp. Ill be happy. put it this way, its better than 160whp
12-26-2007, 07:34 PM
#97
Nordschleife Master
I'm with you on that. And I and do not dispute for a minute that (significant) $$$$ can be spent to get the S14 over 300hp. However, it's hard to keep the engine together in this high state of tune especially with the stock engine management system. And good aftermarket systems like Motec are major bucks. Use a marginal system (keeping in mind that the S14 has no knock sensors), and eventually your engine will go BOOM. At the end of the day the dollars spent to get the S14 to the 300hp level reliably would equally make for some pretty significant gains on a 911.
Two more things: getting an M3 down to 2400lbs will take some doing (though very possible) as the car weighs 2800 + lbs in stock trim. Also, the stock brakes are very marginal for a 192 HP car much less for one that puts out 240 +.
Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed my M3. It's a neat, unique car. However, even with after all the $$$ invested in Evo mods, it left me wanting. Back then, for the same money I could have bought a Boxster S. Let's face it, even the very best BMW is not the equal of Porsche. We're spoiled.
Two more things: getting an M3 down to 2400lbs will take some doing (though very possible) as the car weighs 2800 + lbs in stock trim. Also, the stock brakes are very marginal for a 192 HP car much less for one that puts out 240 +.
Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed my M3. It's a neat, unique car. However, even with after all the $$$ invested in Evo mods, it left me wanting. Back then, for the same money I could have bought a Boxster S. Let's face it, even the very best BMW is not the equal of Porsche. We're spoiled.
To get this reliable, it just takes a few Grp A & N parts as well as some EVO parts. My problem at first was trying to keep the tires from spinning in the lower gears. I would be in 1st-3rd & at just about any speed, could break the rear 235's away at will. The Dog-leg Euro trans & 3.32 rear diff solved that.
Cost, yes, it did cost me some coin, when I was done, the motor with labor was around $30,000. But 90% of it was still OEM BMW parts, granted EVO, GRP A & N. The big gain in HP & torque was with the MAXXX Alpha/N setup. It removed the AFM, & just woke up the car. On the dyno, the car went from 225whp, to over 250whp, with just the A/N & the DTM airbox.
TO get it light, again, it was not hard, just EVO parts, DTM parts & some CF, then removing some things, like the AC.
The brakes are fine, just upgrade the pads & lines. I never really lost brakes, of course I had 4 wheel brake ducts, that was really the key.
I owned mine for over 11 years, & did well over 100 track days on it. The car only let me down once, that was with when the stock motor went @ the track. My timing chain jumped around 8000RPM's.
On the streets or track, it was a beast, & had many a Corvette, Porsche, & Ferrari drivers shaking their heads as to how this little 4 banger can not only catch them, but pass them!
12-27-2007, 02:55 PM
#99
Nordschleife Master
12-27-2007, 06:12 PM
#100
Its not all for speed brothers All I wanted is dependable HP. I have enough cars in my stable that would do the job. I always believed that if you want to build something, either you build it right or not do it at all. If 220 or 240 is all Ill get with dependable hp. Ill be happy. put it this way, its better than 160whp
All I wanted is dependable HP. I have enough cars in my stable that would do the job. I always believed that if you want to build something, either you build it right or not do it at all. If 220 or 240 is all Ill get with dependable hp. Ill be happy. put it this way, its better than 160whpI am pretty much in agreement with Stealth with the exception of Alpha N (it works whenit's in tune.. Also, the CA smog shops wont be too keen on either Alpha N or that beautiful carbon fiber intake manifold.
The mods described are very expensive at $30K just for the engine work. I couldn't rationalize pouring $30K into a $15K - $20K car. I'd rather take that $45K - $50K and put in a TT or a Cayman S, or a 02 996 or a.... you get the idea. But that's just me. Also, once you significantly increase power, other warts become more noticeable (floating caliper brakes, relative lack of body/chassis rigidity, rear wheel traction, suspension, etc).
