Mine does the same thing..... dealer claims a new immobilizer is in order. Luckily mine is under parts warranty for another year.

 

Everything I know about the system I read in the repair manual. I had a couple problems with the alarm system in my car so I got to be intimately familiar with it before I could get my remote programmed.

If you have a 1995 this won't work for your car.

If you don't have a working remote the procedure in this thread won't work (step 1. Unlock the car with the remote ...). You will have to use the key with some smooth moves and timed click clicks. If this is your predicament let me know and I'll try to write up what you have to do.

Does your alarm system pass the self test? If there is a fault in the system it won't go into programming mode.

When you activate the alarm system the LED on the door should flash rapidly (2 Hz) for ~10 seconds while the alarm self tests.

If the system has no faults then the LED will begin a slower (.5 Hz) single flash.

If the alarm system has faults it won't flash for the 10 seconds during the self test and will double flash after the self test.

The self test will fault if:
the doors are not closed (or a door switch is bad)
doors are not locked (or a bad door lock switch)
hood is not closed (or bad switch)
luggage compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
alarm horn is not connected
glove compartment not closed (or bad switch)
radio not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)
parcel shelf switch on cabriolet
fuse 11 blown or missing


That ought to get you thinking?

 

Thanks for the info. My car is a 1997.

I have some questions on the information that you provided:

Does your alarm system pass the self test? If there is a fault in the system it won't go into programming mode.

WHAT IS THE SELF TEST?

When you activate the alarm system the LED on the door should flash rapidly (2 Hz) for ~10 seconds while the alarm self tests.

WHEN I CLOSE THE DOOR AND HIT MY OLD REMOTE, THE LIGHT ON THE
DOOR LIGHTS UP 2X. WHEN I UNLOCK IT USING THE REMOTE, IT FLASHES
ONE TIME.

I ALWAYS THOUGHT THAT THIS WAS OK AND THE PROPER PROCEEDURE
BUT IT IS NOT???

If the system has no faults then the LED will begin a slower (.5 Hz) single flash.

If the alarm system has faults it won't flash for the 10 seconds during the self test and will double flash after the self test.

SO MY SYSTEM HAS "FAULTS" BECAUSE IF DOUBLE FLASHES AFTER I LOCK THE CAR AND PRIME THE REMOTE?

WHAT ARE "FAULTS"? CAN THEY BE CLEARED?

Sorry for the Caps I just dont understand some key issues that you are making
and it would help if I knew more before going to the dealer and paying them
endlesss dollars.

Yes, i have the old remote but now it only works if i hit the button in a certain
spot with another key jabbing it.

PS: if i manage to program the new remote, do I need to reprogram the
old remote at the same time or will it be good?

thanks again

 

WHAT IS THE SELF TEST?
When you activate the alarm system (lock the doors with the remote) the LED on the door should flash rapidly (2 Hz) for ~10 seconds while the alarm self tests. The self test checks the eight circuits below (7 if it's not a cab). If the fuse is not there and serviceable several of the circuits will fail.


WHEN I CLOSE THE DOOR AND HIT MY OLD REMOTE, THE LIGHT ON THE
DOOR LIGHTS UP 2X. WHEN I UNLOCK IT USING THE REMOTE, IT FLASHES
ONE TIME.
If your LED doesn't continue to flash after you lock the car with the remote I don't know what is wrong with it. Sorry.

I ALWAYS THOUGHT THAT THIS WAS OK AND THE PROPER PROCEEDURE
BUT IT IS NOT???
If the system has no faults then the LED will begin a slower (.5 Hz) single flash. As long as the alarm system is active and there are no faults the LED should be flashing at the slower rate (once every two seconds).

If the alarm system has faults it won't flash for the 10 seconds during the self test and will double flash after the self test. As long as the alarm system is active and there were faults during the self test the LED should have a double flash at about every two seconds. The system just ignores whatever fault was sensed during the self test. For instance, if you had a bad switch (short to ground) in the engine compartment the system would think the engine lid was open when the alarm was set. The LED would be doing the double flash after the self test and the system would ignore the engine compartment switch. If the system had any faults during the self test it will not go into the programming mode.

SO MY SYSTEM HAS "FAULTS" BECAUSE IF DOUBLE FLASHES AFTER I LOCK THE CAR AND PRIME THE REMOTE?
Stand outside the car and watch the LED.
Press the button on the remote.
The doors should lock and the LED should flash ~20 times in ~10 seconds.
Then the LED should continue to flash once every 2 seconds until you unlock the door or the car battery goes dead.
If there is no flash after you press the remote button and then after ~10 seconds the LED starts to double flash then you probably have one or more of the faults listed below.
If anything else happens I don't know what the problem is.

WHAT ARE "FAULTS"? CAN THEY BE CLEARED?
The self test will fault if:
the doors are not closed (or a door switch is bad)
doors are not locked (or a bad door lock switch)
hood is not closed (or bad switch)
luggage compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
alarm horn is not connected
glove compartment not closed (or bad switch)
radio not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)
parcel shelf switch on cabriolet
fuse 11 blown or missing

The system checks the circuits listed above and ignores any circuit that doesn't pass until the next time the alarm is set and the system self tests again. If the alarm system is failing this self test just correct whatever is wrong on the list above.


PS: if i manage to program the new remote, do I need to reprogram the
old remote at the same time or will it be good?
Yes, you have to do your old remote too. You have to program all of the remotes you want to use. The ones that you program will be the only ones the car will recognize.

 

hoggel, thank you so much for the time that you took to answer these questions.

 

The instructions fail to state that you have to close the car door for it to work properly.

Dumb, I know, but that's what happened to me. Once I shut the door, it worked.

 

The programming won't work with the doors open? Just want to make sure I understand that correctly.

 

I sure hope you're being sarcastic.

Just in case you're serious ... you will not be able to program your remote if:
the doors are not closed (or a door switch is bad)
the doors are not locked (or a bad door lock switch)
the hood is not closed (or bad switch)
the luggage compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
the alarm horn is not connected
the glove compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
the radio is not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)
the parcel shelf is not in place on cabriolet
or if fuse 11 blown or missing.

Have you ever seen that list before?

If there is anyone who still can't get their remote programmed after all the yak yak in this thread please ship your remote and your car to me (excluding 1995s) . I'll program your remote for you and take your car to the track for a couple days to make sure the alarm system is working properly.

 

 

What remote housing are you guys referring to? I just orderedTHIS ONE from Pelican Parts, and it cost $67.00

What's the $145 one???

 

butzi, I called Pelican last week and inquired on that... the $67 one is only
the housing (no electronic guts). It is $67 for the plastic, key ring and screw.
If you want the one with the electronic guts, they retail for about $145.

Couple more questions related to info here:

the radio is not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)

* My car does have aftermarket head. How do I know if it is isolated
"properly" or not??

the parcel shelf is not in place on cabriolet

* What is a "parcel shelf"? I have a cab.

thanks again

 

I thought I was finished with this thread.

So your car has the double flash? If you do have the double flash check the easy stuff first.

Open the glove box ... if the light is on in there the fuse 11 is good. Push the button that turns on the glove box light and if the light goes out the glove box switch is good.
Open the driver's door ... does the interior light come on? If it does push the door switch button and it should go out (there may be a delay?).
Same for the passenger door (one door at a time, the other door closed)
Same for the luggage compartment and the engine compartment lights. The switch there is in the latches.

Now you've checked half the stuff. The radio, alarm horn, and lock solenoids are not quite as easy to check.

The radio circuit has a wire that is intended to touch electrical ground when the radio is removed (sets off the alarm if the radio is stolen). The wire is green and would be connected to a strap in the mount of the stock radio. If the stock mount has been replaced that wire should have been capped off so that it doesn't touch anything.

I don't know. The factory manual says cabriolet M419. The option code M419 is listed as "rear package tray." From the factory manual alarm diagnosis section, "On vehicles fitted with rear parcel shelf (Cabriolet) instead of the occasional seats, the contacts of the rear parcel trays are wired to this input." The wiring diagram says "rear package tray switch" and shows two switches.

 

oh ok the rear parcel shelf sounds like rear seat delete... i dont have that...
thanks again will try all options

 

Oh oh! Bad info! I hope I haven't caused anyone confusion.

The check I posted above is not valid. The interior lights are not controlled by the door switch. They are controlled by locking/unlocking the doors.

 

Re-Activating this thread.
New to me Remote and keys for a 97.

Pm sent to hoggel.
Anyone know this procedure with new remote?
Battery died so I charged it up. Re- installed and as soon as I attach ground the Alarm is whaling.
the issue
i do not have a working remote. Post 17 hoggel
Now I need help programming new remote code into dme.
Car battery died.
Door diodes dbl flashing with Recharged battery. Holdin a decent charge but now she is whaling.
Disconnect Alarm maybe?
can I program with no alarm guess not "eh?"
TJ