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Old 07-16-2007, 10:16 AM
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yellowmz3
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This I'm sure has been asked previously, but maybe some people have new ideas on this subject. What are some simple/effective means of increasing HP in the 993, without running into premature clutch wear.... I'm talking modest gains, maybe into the low 300's from stock 280ish. Also, I do need to pass inspection in NJ
Rob
Old 07-16-2007, 10:47 AM
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chris walrod
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best powergains include installing a light weight flywheel (factory RS 'kit') then regearing the trans. There are engine mods that help, but most feel they are cost prohibitive given the bang for the buck ratio.
Old 07-16-2007, 10:50 AM
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RallyJon
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What are some simple/effective means of increasing HP in the 993 ... maybe into the low 300's from stock 280ish.
You find a reasonably priced answer to that question and everyone on this board will line up to buy it.
Old 07-16-2007, 10:53 AM
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Take it your favorite shop to have a supercharger installed. Come back to the shop in a week or two and write a $10,000 check and have about 40 to 50 HP more. Simple. Effective. Other than than, a chip along with fine tuning will get you 10 or 15 HP at higher RPM for about a grand or so. That's about it.

Better off with a light weight flywheel and re-gearing when you go to replace the clutch.
Old 07-16-2007, 12:17 PM
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yellowmz3
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Amazing that the light weight fly wheel and gearing can do that much. Do you really notice the difference?
Old 07-16-2007, 01:35 PM
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Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by yellowmz3
Amazing that the light weight fly wheel and gearing can do that much. Do you really notice the difference?
OMG,..yesssssss,...
Old 07-16-2007, 01:47 PM
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TheOtherEric
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IMHO, regearing the tranny isn't cost effective, though. Will cost you like $4k. Sure, i'd like to have it, and it's certainly an improvement, but no, it's not like adding 40hp.

Also search on the ninemeister cylinder heads. Good for what 50-80hp (?) for around $15k. Caveat- you'd be about the 1st in the U.S. to do it.
Old 07-16-2007, 03:19 PM
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Jean
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Originally Posted by TheOtherEric
Also search on the ninemeister cylinder heads. Good for what 50-80hp (?) for around $15k. Caveat- you'd be about the 1st in the U.S. to do it.
Or buy a 993TT engine, get 110 factory guaranteed and headache free HP, sell your engine, and you will be better off by $5k+ - (sorry to disagree Eric )

Seriously though, gearing is certainly a feel good/enjoy modification, you might not go from 0-200kph faster, but you will have better "in-gear" response and acceleration, just like the LWF setup.
Old 07-16-2007, 03:46 PM
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Jean, sure that options sounds great too. Is that really a plausible mod? Honestly I'm sure it's a lot more than $10k in total or else people would be doing it frequently. (and I'd be first in line!!)
Old 07-16-2007, 03:52 PM
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RallyJon
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Have to wonder what kind of condition a 993 TT motor from a "parted out" car would be in. Probably prudent to do a top end and check everything out while it's out.

I also haven't seen a look-what-I-just-did post here with pictures and description of pitfalls and how-tos. Has anyone done a basic, lowest possible budget TT swap? Or are they all $30k full drivetrain conversions done by big name shops?
Old 07-16-2007, 03:54 PM
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Jean
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Eric, it is quite a straightforward swap, it does need a skilled DIYer or good mechanic of course. Quite a few people have done it.

I believe some people don't do it because they worry about resale value or simply because they don't know it can be done, or they don't like the rear TT wing etc , but if you are going to go with extensive head mods that are not Porsche OEM, then you might as well go for a Porsche TT engine. Buy one for $20-22k, sell yours for $8-9k and you are out of pocket $11-12k for the best proven and reliable 100HP upgrade you could possibly have. Labour costs for a swap are even lesser than doing engine mods.

I might be simplifying it a little, but not much really.

You don't need to touch your gearbox, whether you have a 2WD or 4WD car, except get a better clutch, which would be the same issue with the modified heads though. Same with suspension etc..
Old 07-16-2007, 04:01 PM
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AndyT
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or buy my car

1997 993 TT, 50k miles but nearly everything has been replaced or rebuilt.

Interior

Recaro SPG Pro Racer Hans Driver seat with sliders( new 2007 )
Recaro SPG Passenger side seat with sliders
Schroth Profi 6 point harnesses (red)
Momo Porsche SuperCup Steering Wheel
TC snap off steering wheel hub horn function retained
Safety Devices Full Roll Cage
Lower Dash removed, Factory RS knee pad installed for ease of getting in and out of the car
Brey Kraus Seat Back brace
Halon Fire extinguisher and BK mount
SFI Rollbar padding
RS door panels
RS parking brake handle
930 style manual Boost gauge (clock still connected behind the dash)
RS console package tray replaces cassette holder.
Rear wiper delete
Airbag removed on the a passenger side
No airbag on the driver’s side
Hot lap timer with smaller display unit.
Radio removed for 2 way Motorola base station unit 30 watt
Rennline RSR floorboard on the drivers side along with Ultimate Pedals and dead pedal
Schroth Window Net
RS style rear carpet kit. Replaces rear leather deck and seat padding (40 pounds of crap)
Wired for 2 way radios, (roof mount antenna included)
Kokelyn shift ****


Suspension

Porsche RSR Bilstein shocks revalved by Bilstein to match higher spring rates
Hypercoil 900 – 600 lb springs
MODE Design camber plate / monoball uppers in the rear
ERP monoball / camber plates up front
Factory Motorsports strut tower brace
RS rear adjustable sway bar (3 way)
RS 5 way adj front sway bar
ERP Front lower control arm monoballs (replaced the OEM rubber ones)
ERP rear adjustable links, Kinematic, tow, camber, and monoballs in lower control arm
ERP solid Carriage Mounts
GT2 Evo Uprights
ERP bump steer kit
New wheel bearings all around


Engine

RS Lightweight Flywheel
RS pressure plate
GT2 clutch disc
WEVO motor mounts
BMC air filter
GT2 Evo dump pipes (no cats) have originals still
Billet bypass valves
Clewett Serpentine Belt kit
OEM Headers, heater boxing removed
GT2 oil cooler (driver’s side)
New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, filters, seals, virtually everything without pulling the heads was replaced
Leakdown of less than 2% across all cylinders
Injectors flowed and matched
All sensors replaced
FVD programming for EVO pipes
turbos rebuilt by Durabilt 2007 zero miles
All sheet metal bead blasted and powder coated 2007

Weight savings

Heat removed in the engine bay
AC condenser and lines out (Compressor still there for PCA CR rules )
Crash bumpers removed for weight savings
Rear seats removed for cage fitment

Brakes

Pagid Black / Black pads new
Fischer Stainless lines
Pentosin racing brake fluid fresh


Body

Euro front bumper cover Factory part
Euro rear bumper cover Factory part
GT2 Carbon splitter – MA Shaw Designs
Aluminum support plate custom fabricated to stiffen the 3 splitter sections
No fog lights for better flow to the oil coolers
Euro orange corner lights
Amber rear Euro lights, Factory parts
2 sets of BBS Motorsports wheels 18 by 9 and 18 by 11.5
One set in Gold one set Silver
Hooisers R-6 tires 315 and 245
996 OEM hollow spokes with street Kuhmos, never used
Custom fabricated tow hooks front and rear.
Old 07-16-2007, 04:05 PM
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Jean
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What happened there Andy? You've barely finished investing so much time and money on your car!
Old 07-16-2007, 04:36 PM
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JasonAndreas
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Originally Posted by Jean
it is quite a straightforward swap, it does need a skilled DIYer or good mechanic of course.
Is there any special fabrication required to fit (what I thought) was a slightly (1-2"?) longer engine?
Old 07-16-2007, 04:50 PM
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chris walrod
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
Is there any special fabrication required to fit (what I thought) was a slightly (1-2"?) longer engine?
Isnt in the bellhousing (gearbox) that locates the engine aft ~1"?

Glen G. in Texas has been my answer source for installing a TT engine. He recommends an OBD1 car as the loom / electronics portion of swap is easier. Otherwise, Glen mentioned its frighteningly easy



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