It seemed to set up annoying vibration in the cabin. I did not have the short shifter installed. I sold it to a neighbor.

I am happy with the stock shifter...it reminds me to shift slowly, no speed shifts...I don't want to spend $9,000 rebuilding the tranny.

 

I have the RS Shifter w/ the RS rod and love it. Shifting is precise. I also like the shifter being a tad higher.

 

I did some investigating under the car this afternoon. I was able to easily separate the front pivot point (marked in blue) but could not figure out a way to pop apart the shift lever pivot point (marked in red) without potentially harming it. Any suggestions?

The front pivot has quite a bit of slop, up & down as well as fore & aft. Should this be snug?





Andreas

 

A tie rod pickle fork tool works well. These joints should be fairly snug without play in any direction other than rotating about the ball stud.

 

Chris,
The front pivot (#16) has slop in all directions. The rear pivot seems tight. I'm not keen on using a pickle fork to separate the rear pivot as there is no way to keep the shift lever stationary. Maybe a ball joint separater that gently squeezes between the rod end and the lowest part of the shift lever?

Andreas

 

If I remember correctly, I used an open end wrench to seperate them a part. Push it in the between and twist. The thickness of the wrench helped a great deal.

 

Glad I found this thread, I was looking at the couplers today under the car and noticed the shift rod to transmission had a lot of play in it. My issue is when I'm coming out of a corner under full throttle, and then shift from 2nd to 3rd, I will have a slight grind of the gears. Doesn't matter how slow I shift. It does this at summit point coming out of turn 2 and coming out of the safety pin at Sebring.

So I will try to firm up the rubber, either with washers or replacing it. And hopefully this fixes the issue.

Todd

 

Todd,

Please be sure to post your results after the fix. I have the same issue shifting from 2nd to 3rd while in a corner; slight grinding of gear, and really hope your fix works.

 

I did this a few days ago - worked just fine. I took everything apart, cleaned thoroughly and am now waiting on the time to put it all back together.

Andreas

 

In doing some looking today, I noticed that the 964 shift rods are around $60. The part number is 964.424.019.08, on the PET diagrams it looks like the RS shift rod. Can a 964 shift rod be used in place, I couldn't find that answer anywhere, and I was just wondering if anybody looked into this before. The RS part number is also a 964 part, so are they all the same length?

For now, I'm going to go washer route or use some aluminum bar to replace the rubber.

Todd

 

Todd,
The correct RS shift rod to use for the 993 is indeed a 964 part - 964.424.020.35. The coupler is different and as such needs a shorter bolt - 999.074.042.02. The rod is around $360 from Sunset.

Take a look at my post #18 for the pic.

Andreas

 

Ok, so the coupler is different on the RS rod. Tischer has the RS rod for $368
I'm going to try and go the washer route or replace the rubber base with something else.

Todd

 

You use a pickle fork as previously posted to separate the joint. THen to get it back
together you compress slowly with a C-clamp. I had the same problems and received
the above sage advice from someone we all know - with the initials VB. That joint
is very tight....

 

I hope to have the entire shift mechanism reassembled next week.

The 993 has sat immobile on four stands for nearly two weeks. Poor thing.



Andreas

 

Does anyone know the proper thickness of the replacement bushing? I'd like to use some kind of poly-whatever to replace the rubber.