RustyRotors

I installed the bilstein HD shocks and H&R springs front and rear.

I have no trouble with the front alignment. My problem is with the rear camber.

There is no way I can get anwhere near -1.5 negative camber. The best I can achieve is -2 degrees camber.

Am I missing something or is this the best I can expect to get?

Thanks
Ron

geolab

to achieve the right negative camber, the two lower arms should be adjusted at a certain angle between
each other. This is called kinematic toe and is adjusted by two bubble level scales that practically, only the dealers
should have.
These lower arms are at a certain angle, when decreased, pushes the lower wheel out of the car, and
when the angle is increased, pulls the bottom of the wheel to the inside. The angle also rotates the wheel hub slightly changing the wheel 'pivot' angle as well.
To properly adjust, you should align the rear chassis at the dealer, or at a shop who has the scales.
regards

jimbo3

What is your rear ride height? The lower you go, the greater the minimum camber will be. Mine rides at ~115mm in back and, so far, we can only get to -1.4 degrees and within 1 1/2 bubbles on the K-toe. Hoped to get to 1.2 degrees and 1/2 bubble.

-Jim

Blue Ocean

Im at 26" to the bottom of my rear fenders and have -1.18 on the left rear and -1.19 on the right rear

jimbo3

Jeff- What's your chassis height? Is you camber at the minimum, or is there some adjustment still available?

-Jim

Blue Ocean

Jim,
I haven't measured for the standard porsche points.
as far as adjustment, im not sure. I just took it to the dealer and told them to align it. I didn't give them any specs.

jford

I get -2.9 in the rear. RS ride height.

Jamie

FLA997

-3.2 in Front and -2.8 Rear no problem at all with JICs...and there is still a good amount of adjustment at RS height.

Mark in Baltimore

You guys are running 2.8-2.9 in the rear? What are your tread temps like across the tire? Man, my minimum is 2.5 degrees camber in the rear, and I think that's too much (rather be at 2.0).

FLA997

Mark-

Now your talking way over my head. These numbers were given to me by Viper Bob as a good setup for the track car and off I went with MPSCs.

The car handles exceptionally well (ask 993inNC)...but the temp spread is unknown until I get back to track this Fall and try to make sense of it all. I'm getting ready to put Dunlop Slicks on the car, which, according to Geoffrey require -3.2 in the rear and -3.7 Front.

Rob

Mark in Baltimore

Rob,

You should invest in a tire pyrometer to measure tread temps, which will help tell you how your setup is working with your style/level of driving. The last time I checked tread temps was at Road Atlanta's warmup session prior to the race. I was reading

LR 112/122/121 and RR 125/96/95

("inner" numbers are inner tread temps, "outer" numbers are outer tread temps).

The LR delta is 9 degrees, which is not bad, but the RR difference is 29 degrees, huge amount. If I could get less than 2.5 degrees of negative camber, my tread temps would be perfect. Or maybe if I drove even harder, the LR numbers would even themselves out.

I dunno. It seems as if many racers are running a bit over 2 degrees in the rear and 2.5-3.0 in the front. The only cure is to get the ERP links and such for the rear, but I was told by one very well-respected racer and mechanic that the full rear ERP kit is very, very tough to set up correctly because of all of the variables. Since I know I can and should be driving harder, I'll take that route and spend less money.

FLA997

I hear ya Mark...its funny this came up today because Friday I had ordered one...should be here next week. I'll let you know what temps Im cookin' later this fall when I get back to the track.

The Dunlop camber #s were from Geoffrey...whom I have received other good info from, although they do seem extreme. (The Dunlops are full race slicks).

993inNC

Mark, I can tell you that A) Rob's clone handles and goes like a scalded dog B) I have found, albeit with stock sways, that -1.8 is bare minimum as so not to roll over the outside edge of the tire. I would leave your LR the way it is, those numbers look right to me. The RR I would certainly drop back closer to -2.0. You don't need as much camber on that side since more of the weight is on the left side (yes even when the car is corner balanced, since that weight jacking is done static not in motion). Rob's car tended to be just a wee bit twitchy when really pushed, so I wouldn't go that drastic. His car handles amazingly under most circumstances, but I like a slightly more neutral rear end. Now the front on the other hand on these cars needs alot of camber and I would just adjust that around tire temps and how it feels.

Mark in Baltimore

Chris,

I can't get any less than 2.5 degrees of neg camber in the rear. My car has Motons and handles unbelievably well, especially after Chris Cervelli helped tweak it and my brain, but that's not to say that the car can't be made to handle even better. With Caymans and 964 cup cars in D, I'll take every advantage I can get.

I know what you mean about tire rollover. Here is my car showing some rear tire roll over.

My apologies for the thread highjack.

993inNC

WOW Mark, that severe. What spring rates are you running? Can't you dial in (out as the case may be) compression with those Motons? Almost looks like turn 5 at RA, or is that the down hill "S"'s at VIR? Thats some huge squat either way.......
Front looks good though