Barn Find...C4S sitting for 2 years...what to look for?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Some of you may remember me from the Turquoise Blue C4S I owned a couple of years ago. I sold that car and have missed it ever since.
Anyway, I was visiting some family last week and came across a C4S parked in an out of the way garage. It was so dusty you almost couldn't see into it!
Naturally, I inquired about it and was told that it belongs to a guy who parked it over 2 years ago because he got bored with it. He bought a new BMW 7 series and the C4S has sat ever since. I don't know how many miles are on it or any of the history. I don't even know if the guy even wants to sell!
I've been trying to reach the owner. Before I make an offer, what mechanical/electrical items should I be concerned about on a car that has not been started for over 2 years? I assume all fluids should be changed before starting it as well as maybe squirting some oil in the cylinders and rotating the engine by hand to get everything lubricated? What else would you want to check?
Thoughts??????????
Anyway, I was visiting some family last week and came across a C4S parked in an out of the way garage. It was so dusty you almost couldn't see into it!
Naturally, I inquired about it and was told that it belongs to a guy who parked it over 2 years ago because he got bored with it. He bought a new BMW 7 series and the C4S has sat ever since. I don't know how many miles are on it or any of the history. I don't even know if the guy even wants to sell!
I've been trying to reach the owner. Before I make an offer, what mechanical/electrical items should I be concerned about on a car that has not been started for over 2 years? I assume all fluids should be changed before starting it as well as maybe squirting some oil in the cylinders and rotating the engine by hand to get everything lubricated? What else would you want to check?
Thoughts??????????
Last edited by billh1963; 06-05-2007 at 07:25 AM.
#2
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Make sure the brakes aren't stuck if you attempt to drive it (should you get it started). The lifters are hydraulic so just spin the motor over without spark (disconnect the coils). They will pump up over a minute or two so I would spin it for 30 seconds or so to get the oil moving. If it starts I wouldn't run it long. The oil is old as is the gas, drain everything and start over.
#3
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Check for evidence if rats and the chewing of wires. Otherwise, if you do end-up with this car, may wish to have it flatbedded home where the maintenace can begin
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#7
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you turn around, pull the ignition coils off, change the fluids and pump the engine and start it, you would be raising the value of the car thousands of dollars before buying it.
Try to tell the guy you are searching for a porsche to restore, and how much he wants for it.
Personally, maybe I am wrong, I would thoroughly inspect the car, and make a low unrisky offer before running the engine, before washing the car. If the seller agrees, you would add the 'normal' condition that the engine runs and is in good health, and run it before paying.
In other words, I would negociate the price before running the engine.
Because if the seller sees the car running, and you look satisfied, before negociating, he would want high price for it.
As if you wash the car, wax it, buff it, and then negociate...
I still insist, maybe I am wrong, hope the seller is not reading this post. ...
Try to tell the guy you are searching for a porsche to restore, and how much he wants for it.
Personally, maybe I am wrong, I would thoroughly inspect the car, and make a low unrisky offer before running the engine, before washing the car. If the seller agrees, you would add the 'normal' condition that the engine runs and is in good health, and run it before paying.
In other words, I would negociate the price before running the engine.
Because if the seller sees the car running, and you look satisfied, before negociating, he would want high price for it.
As if you wash the car, wax it, buff it, and then negociate...
I still insist, maybe I am wrong, hope the seller is not reading this post. ...
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Steve, you encouraged me to continue...so lets go:
As I said above, I wouldn't make an offer but rather ask what the seller wants for it, then, ways to drop the price:
1- tell him with these tires left for one week, they flat-spot, 2 years they then are dead. = 4tires $1000
2- spark plug wires to be changed= $500
3- Ignition Caps and plugs= $400 (tell him about spark plug #6 above)
4- Brake fluids, bleeding (servo), engine oil, oil/air/fuel filters, $500 with labor
5- battery and consequence. Tell him about the ECU and SAI, talk to him about the Check Engine Light, Readiness code,and the cost to remedy $500 to infinity
6- A/C leak check, refill, etc. $300
7- Belts to change $100
8- even the leather should be dry...$???
9- The cherry on the cake, please nag the whole story about the shock absorbers, the monroe abyss etc. $2000
9a- Alignment nightmare $500
10- paint recure
11- operate the spoiler, and make him hear it rattle, cost of motor $385 without labor
Remember, you have never heard of Robin's DIYs before....................etc.
As I said above, I wouldn't make an offer but rather ask what the seller wants for it, then, ways to drop the price:
1- tell him with these tires left for one week, they flat-spot, 2 years they then are dead. = 4tires $1000
2- spark plug wires to be changed= $500
3- Ignition Caps and plugs= $400 (tell him about spark plug #6 above)
4- Brake fluids, bleeding (servo), engine oil, oil/air/fuel filters, $500 with labor
5- battery and consequence. Tell him about the ECU and SAI, talk to him about the Check Engine Light, Readiness code,and the cost to remedy $500 to infinity
6- A/C leak check, refill, etc. $300
7- Belts to change $100
8- even the leather should be dry...$???
9- The cherry on the cake, please nag the whole story about the shock absorbers, the monroe abyss etc. $2000
9a- Alignment nightmare $500
10- paint recure
11- operate the spoiler, and make him hear it rattle, cost of motor $385 without labor
Remember, you have never heard of Robin's DIYs before....................etc.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, geolab, for the list.
My plan has been to negotiate a price on the car "as-is" pending a PPI. I'll pay to have it hauled to the dealer or an independent and have the work done to get it started. If everything checks out I hope to have a great deal. If not, I'll be out several hundred dollars. So , if the negotiated price is right then it's worth the risk!
My plan has been to negotiate a price on the car "as-is" pending a PPI. I'll pay to have it hauled to the dealer or an independent and have the work done to get it started. If everything checks out I hope to have a great deal. If not, I'll be out several hundred dollars. So , if the negotiated price is right then it's worth the risk!
#11
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This must be the first 993 C4S barn find story I have ever read!
My ur-quattro had been laid up for 18 months by its first owner before I bought it ten years ago. Within the first month of getting it back on the road, everything that needed replacing just about gave way: fuel pump, brake pressure accumulator, radiator, alternator, AC compressor (non factory), etc. etc., so costwise it was quite a nightmare. Not to mention the new fluids, battery and tires that went on the car from the day I got it. So be prepared for some new adventures and get some spare cash ready... Good luck and have fun!
My ur-quattro had been laid up for 18 months by its first owner before I bought it ten years ago. Within the first month of getting it back on the road, everything that needed replacing just about gave way: fuel pump, brake pressure accumulator, radiator, alternator, AC compressor (non factory), etc. etc., so costwise it was quite a nightmare. Not to mention the new fluids, battery and tires that went on the car from the day I got it. So be prepared for some new adventures and get some spare cash ready... Good luck and have fun!
#12
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would not be deterred at all by two years of storage ..... especially at the right price
.
My first 928 was stored for 3.5 years when abroad: although a nice protocol for storage had been set up, it was clear that nothing had been touched by the 'movers' on our return .... literarily, 'storage in a barn' : pulled the fuel pump relay, grounded the ignition and spun the starter to oil the motor - added injector cleaner to make me feel better, and drove it home. Changed all fluids, etc. later - and never a problem. All this occured before your C4S was built - and that 928 is running perfectly today.
My C4S parts car ( an accident victim) sat several years before I purchased it - and every component pulled off has worked without issue: installed the alternator into my car last month, so I could rebuild the latter at leisure. The motor spins freely - but some of the injectors were partially plugged: easy to clean, and I suspect that they would have fired and cleared if otherwise started up.
Net net- I would like to find a nice C4S hidden in a barn!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My first 928 was stored for 3.5 years when abroad: although a nice protocol for storage had been set up, it was clear that nothing had been touched by the 'movers' on our return .... literarily, 'storage in a barn' : pulled the fuel pump relay, grounded the ignition and spun the starter to oil the motor - added injector cleaner to make me feel better, and drove it home. Changed all fluids, etc. later - and never a problem. All this occured before your C4S was built - and that 928 is running perfectly today.
My C4S parts car ( an accident victim) sat several years before I purchased it - and every component pulled off has worked without issue: installed the alternator into my car last month, so I could rebuild the latter at leisure. The motor spins freely - but some of the injectors were partially plugged: easy to clean, and I suspect that they would have fired and cleared if otherwise started up.
Net net- I would like to find a nice C4S hidden in a barn!
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#15
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bill,
Welcome back! I still remember the day when you took pictures of the new owner driving off in your car. Anyway, I hope you can get a C4S soon and rejoin the 993 fraternity!![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Rich
Welcome back! I still remember the day when you took pictures of the new owner driving off in your car. Anyway, I hope you can get a C4S soon and rejoin the 993 fraternity!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Rich