Oil....Again...Mobil 1 15W-50 New Formulation
#16
Three Wheelin'
I have to second the endorsement of Redline. I have an old diesel I use as a daily driver and when I called Redline to get some info on their diesel oils (diesel oils have the same reformulation issues) Redline couldn't have been more helpful. They come across as legitimately trying to make the best products. I'm a big fan.
No affiliation whatsoever.
No affiliation whatsoever.
#17
Rennlist Member
Slight Thread Jack.....and a useless bit of FYI, but..... Am down about a quart or so in the 993 right now, and was just going to buy a liter at the Esso station to top up until I make the 3 hr drive to the nearest US Facility to get some more.
They had Mobil 1 in some "wierd" configurations like "ESP - EMISSION SYSTEM PROTECTION" and "SUPER DUTY LONG LIFE." No real idea what those mean, but in any case, ALL of these were in the range of 25Euros PER LITER. That's about $33!! Went to the car parts place, thinking that was just gas staion prices....nope! All of the synthetics are in this price range!! Unbelievable. I decided that am making the trip today to go shopping, and I'll grab 3-4 cases of Mobil 1 at $5.75/qt at the Post Exchange. Not going to touch it at the Euro prices...
They had Mobil 1 in some "wierd" configurations like "ESP - EMISSION SYSTEM PROTECTION" and "SUPER DUTY LONG LIFE." No real idea what those mean, but in any case, ALL of these were in the range of 25Euros PER LITER. That's about $33!! Went to the car parts place, thinking that was just gas staion prices....nope! All of the synthetics are in this price range!! Unbelievable. I decided that am making the trip today to go shopping, and I'll grab 3-4 cases of Mobil 1 at $5.75/qt at the Post Exchange. Not going to touch it at the Euro prices...
#18
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Thread Starter
Redline vs. M1
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi Kevin:
Redline seems to have chosen the path of ignoring the Energy-Saving oil market and the SM-rated stuff blended to meet EPA regulations.
My experience is that their lubricants are very high quality and well suited to Porsche engines without the need for any supplements or additives. Good stuff!!!
(Exxon-Mobil was really one of the toughest companies to locate an engineer conversant and knowlegable about lubricants, but I think I'll track down the person I spoke with to inquire what the precise differences between the various 15w-50 products are.)
Redline seems to have chosen the path of ignoring the Energy-Saving oil market and the SM-rated stuff blended to meet EPA regulations.
My experience is that their lubricants are very high quality and well suited to Porsche engines without the need for any supplements or additives. Good stuff!!!
(Exxon-Mobil was really one of the toughest companies to locate an engineer conversant and knowlegable about lubricants, but I think I'll track down the person I spoke with to inquire what the precise differences between the various 15w-50 products are.)
So, given the current state of oil formulations, and Redline's assertion that "Red Line's products are unique because they contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines. These synthetics have a natural multigrade property which allows our chemists to avoid bulking up an oil with unnecessary additive packages." The Redline 15W-50 is a better choice than the new M1 15W-50?
#19
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by FLYT993
Steve--
So, given the current state of oil formulations, and Redline's assertion that "Red Line's products are unique because they contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines. These synthetics have a natural multigrade property which allows our chemists to avoid bulking up an oil with unnecessary additive packages." The Redline 15W-50 is a better choice than the new M1 15W-50?
So, given the current state of oil formulations, and Redline's assertion that "Red Line's products are unique because they contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines. These synthetics have a natural multigrade property which allows our chemists to avoid bulking up an oil with unnecessary additive packages." The Redline 15W-50 is a better choice than the new M1 15W-50?
Right now, if one can afford it, Redline's 15w-50 would be a better choice for your car,...
#21
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Dan:
Right now, if one can afford it, Redline's 15w-50 would be a better choice for your car,...
Right now, if one can afford it, Redline's 15w-50 would be a better choice for your car,...
The information you provide to this community is invaluable. And I know many others feel the same way. The M1 will be going back to Wal Mart, and I'll pick up the Red Line version...only the best for my baby.
When my baby needs major work, I just might drive her North.
#22
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What typical parts stores carry Redline?
This whole oil research is making me wonder if I should be doing the same with KY vs. Astroglide. Is that new heat formula actually better than the original formula?
This whole oil research is making me wonder if I should be doing the same with KY vs. Astroglide. Is that new heat formula actually better than the original formula?
#23
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Originally Posted by 95 C4 993
What typical parts stores carry Redline?
This whole oil research is making me wonder if I should be doing the same with KY vs. Astroglide. Is that new heat formula actually better than the original formula?
This whole oil research is making me wonder if I should be doing the same with KY vs. Astroglide. Is that new heat formula actually better than the original formula?
#24
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To muddle the issue even more, I just returned from Walmart and they had a product I had not seen before, M1 10w-40 "High Mileage". According to the label it is NOT a SM formulation, but FULLY a SL. Label also claims "extra anti-wear additive", I bought some and will send a sample for testing.
#25
Weathergirl
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You guys really should read Pelican now and then. This was all covered (and then some) in the big oil thread there. Here's a link if you missed it: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=332678
#26
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Originally Posted by 95 C4 993
This whole oil research is making me wonder if I should be doing the same with KY vs. Astroglide. Is that new heat formula actually better than the original formula?
#27
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Originally Posted by RallyJon
You guys really should read Pelican now and then. This was all covered (and then some) in the big oil thread there. Here's a link if you missed it: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=332678
These may be of interest
http://www.astmtmc.cmu.edu/docs/gas...%2002-24-04.pdf
http://www.elcocorp.com/Elco%20ZDDP%20table.pdf
http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp...62&DISPLAY=DESC
More importantly, this led to the observation that the phosphorus content of the lubricating oil composition could be halved without adversely affecting the wear protection afforded by such oils. Most surprisingly, lowering the phosphorus content of lubricating oils and the sulphur content of the fuel gave a synergistic benefit, providing the lowest iron content of all even though lowering the sulphur and phosphorus content would have been expected to increase wear as indicated by iron content. This suggests that lubricating oils for use in conjunction with low sulphur fuels can henceforth be formulated with reduced phosphorus levels without adversely affecting wear performance.
http://www.astmtmc.cmu.edu/docs/gas...%2002-24-04.pdf
http://www.elcocorp.com/Elco%20ZDDP%20table.pdf
http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp...62&DISPLAY=DESC
More importantly, this led to the observation that the phosphorus content of the lubricating oil composition could be halved without adversely affecting the wear protection afforded by such oils. Most surprisingly, lowering the phosphorus content of lubricating oils and the sulphur content of the fuel gave a synergistic benefit, providing the lowest iron content of all even though lowering the sulphur and phosphorus content would have been expected to increase wear as indicated by iron content. This suggests that lubricating oils for use in conjunction with low sulphur fuels can henceforth be formulated with reduced phosphorus levels without adversely affecting wear performance.
#28
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by DJF1
The fact for me remains that we are not exactly experts to draw solid scientific conclusions. Until someone can prove that the reduced levels of Z and PH as found on the Mobil 1 15-50 are harmful to our engines, I think it would be ludicrous to drive ourselves crazy as evident from the quoted post above which contradicts scientifically the recent claims that reduced Z and Ph are bad. 2 sides of the story? Most likely all of us we are not in a position to draw accurate conclusions...
I think those are overall, wise words but having read those papers (and some others) in detail, those findings were based on the use of low-sulfur fuels which are not curently sold in the US.
Its clear that oil blenders and manufacturers are using some different AW additives in place of Zn & P, but I think the jury is out until people in the repair side of this industry have some experience with these over the long haul.
I'm not terribly comfortable playing "amateur chemist" since there are things that I do not yet fully understand, but I would tell people to use a good oil containing sufficient ZDDP until some long-term results are in from using the new formulations.
I simply cannot take chances with customer engines based on what I've seen to date in some instances.
#29
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi Danny:
I think those are overall, wise words but having read those papers (and some others) in detail, those findings were based on the use of low-sulfur fuels which are not curently sold in the US.
Its clear that oil blenders and manufacturers are using some different AW additives in place of Zn & P, but I think the jury is out until people in the repair side of this industry have some experience with these over the long haul.
I'm not terribly comfortable playing "amateur chemist" since there are things that I do not yet fully understand, but I would tell people to use a good oil containing sufficient ZDDP until some long-term results are in from using the new formulations.
I simply cannot take chances with customer engines based on what I've seen to date in some instances.
I think those are overall, wise words but having read those papers (and some others) in detail, those findings were based on the use of low-sulfur fuels which are not curently sold in the US.
Its clear that oil blenders and manufacturers are using some different AW additives in place of Zn & P, but I think the jury is out until people in the repair side of this industry have some experience with these over the long haul.
I'm not terribly comfortable playing "amateur chemist" since there are things that I do not yet fully understand, but I would tell people to use a good oil containing sufficient ZDDP until some long-term results are in from using the new formulations.
I simply cannot take chances with customer engines based on what I've seen to date in some instances.
I'm not comfortable at all as well to play amateur chemist, hence my hesitation to mix blends, add additives go to a diesel oil , motorcycle oil or oil used by Nascar. How much of Z and PH is good enough? How much is harmful? The reality here is that we simply dont know for sure what the additional additives will do, if they actually have an adverse effect or the oils formulated for something very different like a Detroit V8 will do to my flat six.
I'm sure my line of thinking is what also troubles many, I'm just not going to join the bandwagon for Rotella and the homemade concoctions seen on Pelican, I will trust that the chemists ( read experts with the know how and the resources) at Mobil have done their job and when they publicly say that their new formulation is good enough for my engine.
#30
Originally Posted by DJF1
These are my feelings as well, I too await for you guys who tear apart our engines and see the real deal to give us valuable empirical data.
I'm not comfortable at all as well to play amateur chemist, hence my hesitation to mix blends, add additives go to a diesel oil , motorcycle oil or oil used by Nascar. How much of Z and PH is good enough? How much is harmful? The reality here is that we simply dont know for sure what the additional additives will do, if they actually have an adverse effect or the oils formulated for something very different like a Detroit V8 will do to my flat six.
I'm sure my line of thinking is what also troubles many, I'm just not going to join the bandwagon for Rotella and the homemade concoctions seen on Pelican, I will trust that the chemists ( read experts with the know how and the resources) at Mobil have done their job and when they publicly say that their new formulation is good enough for my engine.
I'm not comfortable at all as well to play amateur chemist, hence my hesitation to mix blends, add additives go to a diesel oil , motorcycle oil or oil used by Nascar. How much of Z and PH is good enough? How much is harmful? The reality here is that we simply dont know for sure what the additional additives will do, if they actually have an adverse effect or the oils formulated for something very different like a Detroit V8 will do to my flat six.
I'm sure my line of thinking is what also troubles many, I'm just not going to join the bandwagon for Rotella and the homemade concoctions seen on Pelican, I will trust that the chemists ( read experts with the know how and the resources) at Mobil have done their job and when they publicly say that their new formulation is good enough for my engine.
To me, I think is get an oil test see what the chemistry levels are and determine if that is correct oil for your specific driving style. Plus read the threads and determine what we all think is best for our cars with frequency of changes.