avidtest

Just got done installing the new kinematic lever for my hanging clutch issue. I thought I'd try this first before bleeding the slave since I don't have a bleeder and wasn't looking forward to that particular job. Well, I guess I should have read the instructions for replacing the kinematic lever all the way through first. The last step is to bleed the slave. DOH!

Guess I'll get a bleeder, but I'm going for the cheapie pump style since I don't have an air compressor.

While I was repacing the lever I noticed my master cylinder dust boot had a tear in it, so I think I'll replace it while I'm at it (I have not yet bolted the pedal assembly back to the floorboard thankfully).

Luckily (luckily!!??), my car is in-op at the moment as I await my new imobillzer remotes. I can hardly wait to attempt to program them. Oh the joy!

Question: Should I go ahead and replace the slave cylinder and hose while I'm at it, or just bleed the system?

jnnking

I think I'd replace it. You're doing everything else. It's all going on 12 years old and how every many miles.

If you don't do it now, you know Murphy's Law will come into play and you'll replace it next month anyway.

AOW162435

Shannon,
If you're able to DIY the pedal cluster, then you should be able to replace the slave and hose. I highly recommend doing this. It cured a very whacky pedal on my car. The slave was a bit tedious, but easy in concept. Buy a Motive Black Label - it's worth every penny for this and for flushing/bleeding the brakes.

Andreas

Robin 993DX

Well.... If when you pressed the pedal you are not hearing any "grinding" noise from the middle of the transmission area you don't need to replace the clutch slave cylinder. It is typically not a regular replacement item.

Regardless, the clutch slave cylinder is not an easy job, and sometime you may not install it correctly and may cause problems. So why fix it if it ain't broken.

avidtest

Thanks for the input guys. Since there is absolutely no grinding, I think I'll pass on replacing it for now and simply bleed the system instead. And Andreas, thanks - I'm going to get a black label Motive tomorrow.

ZombiePorsche44

+1

Sometimes preventive maintinance only costs good money to fix things that are not broken.......I'd bleed it and see how it works before I dropped the $'s and time to swap it out.

ZP44

Miller_arch

I recently did the same lever job. Had the tear in the boot too, plus it was pulled off the cylinder. I attached the boot back on the cylinder but did not replace it. All is well.

The bleed process for me took quite a bit of fluid BTW. I learned too that the supply for the clutch system is high up in the brake fluid reservoir so make sure your get the bleed process done right or the clutch will not work.

gr8nine93

I had several things done by my local shop that were not DIY so while they had the car I had them replace the lever that was the cure all to the returning clutch pedal issue. WRONG! Pedal still hangs up. SO they are suggesting doing the master. HOw long has it taken you shade tree mechanics to do that job? $385 for the part alone is enough and I will be paying for the labor twice. AARGH!

jnnking

I think you got quoted on the brake master cylinder. The clutch master cylinder is $120 at pelican, http://tinyurl.com/275bh2

I've removed my pedal cluster at least four time. I can get it out in 15 minutes. The first time was probably 30 or so. It's a little tricky with trying to keep the brake fluid from dripping all over, but it's not really that difficult. Hiint: I used a pair of vise grips on the tubing going into the cylinder to stop it from dripping.