dcdude

Is this just totally crazy? Anybody heard it being done? I'm guessing you'll need to find a donor OBD II and other assorted wiring. Mmmm....dealing with the LA Dismantler...good times!

Or can you just add the Varioram intake during the re-build of your '95 block?

Wonder if a 150,000 mile '95 3.6 is worth anything as a core charge?

Mike J

Why would you do this? Drive both the 95's and 96+'s first so see if its worth it to you. Its pretty weird but each 993 car that I drive feels different..often a 95 feels just a strong as a 96+, sometimes not.

You will need the associated plumbing and DME to drive the Varioram, it would be easier to swap the entire motor/DME or get another car.

If you troll the posts the 95 appears to be attractive to a lot of people because the ODBI does not sense any problems with the SAI system (the engine still has the system though). I would stick to a 95 and rebuild the motor if it needs it. Is the motor blown? (top end or bottom too? At 150,000 miles you might need to re-ring, piece of cake if the heads are off..). The 95's are more easy for a DIY rebuild since the cam timing is more likely to be the old style which a DIYer can just time with a dial guage.

Cheers,

Mike

Mark in Baltimore

Kim Ouye aka Wreck Me Otter performed this mod to his 3.8 Yellow Zonker, IIRC. Look for his posts or PM him.

RallyJon

How about you keep all your OBD-I stickers and exhaust, and get an OBD-I v-ram from Europe?

brucec59

Why not try a chip?

TheOtherEric

IMHO your money would be much better spent transplanting a supercharger into a 95.

race911

It was removed as there was no appreciable difference with whatever all Weiner and/or Gamroth ended up doing. He threw it in with a truckload of spares, so if anyone wants the manifold I've got one.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi:

We've done one of these conversions on a '95 3.8 motor and tested the results, back-to-back on our engine dyno. On this motor, we found a 20-22 lb-ft difference
from above idle to 5K. After that, the torque curves merged and above 5500, there was no measurable difference to 6800 which was as far as we tested to, given the RS cams.

IMHO, for a car with a good set of close-ratio gears, there is no difference when used on the track. For street use where one spends more time between idle and 5K, it may be worth the effort; it really depends on how you drive.

Rally-Jon's suggestion to aquire a Euro OBD-I V-Ram engine is pretty good since those retain your 55-pin ECU harness. Better yet, the installation of the V-Ram M64-20 3.8 RS engine which is OBD-I,...

Should you pursue this, I do not think you will have any trouble finding a home for your existing 3.6.

Bill Verburg

Yes, the parts all bolt on, it's not a complicated deal to do so. As Steve pointed out for street use w/ stock gearing it's probably worth it.

The other way to do it is w/ a RoW vram, also easy to do and you don't have to deal w/ SAI. Of course the emissions ***** may have something to say about it too.

I went w/ the latter route

Wilder

Are all ROW engines vram or did they make MYs with non-vram like our 95s?

Do the ROW vrams crank the 282HP that US vrams put out?

Sorry for the newbie questions but just want to confirm...

tj90

Dont forget 96+ cars have 4 o2 sensors versus your 1 if you have to upgrade to OBD2.

Wilder

Bump...

Bill Verburg

Row w/ 1 exception* followed the same format for intakes as US/Canada for a given MY, ie all '95s were non vram, all '96 up are vram

*the exception is 993RS which had vram in '95

Yes, again for a given MY, US/Canada power and tiorque are the same as RoW. The difference is that US/Canada cars had SAI for all versions '95 up and 88pin OBD2 for '96 up. None of the n/a RoW have SAI and all of the n/a RoW have 55pin OBD1

Wilder

Thanks Bill...you're a great resource.