Changed my engine decklid lift pistons, STAND BACK!
12-21-2007, 05:04 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
Follow what Mike says. There are several oem part numbers and you should get the exact one for your application.
The 964 ones are identical as well and you wouldn't want those.
One other thing, in the rear inside of the car where the rear decklid shocks are installed, there are two
holes where the shock mounts can be fixed, one above the other.
If installing new rear decklid shocks, be sure to mount them on the upper hole. This way your lid won't fly open.
On the bottom hole, the leverage is easier for the shock to lift the lid.
The 964 ones are identical as well and you wouldn't want those.
One other thing, in the rear inside of the car where the rear decklid shocks are installed, there are two
holes where the shock mounts can be fixed, one above the other.
If installing new rear decklid shocks, be sure to mount them on the upper hole. This way your lid won't fly open.
On the bottom hole, the leverage is easier for the shock to lift the lid.
12-21-2007, 04:33 PM
#33
Addict
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My fronts are toast as well (even tho I specifically asked the PO: Do the front hood shocKs work? Not much room for ambiguity in that question - you would have thought...
Look like a real PITA to swap out - any pointers to a write-up (with lots of pictures!!)?
Look like a real PITA to swap out - any pointers to a write-up (with lots of pictures!!)?
12-21-2007, 05:24 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Best I can tell, the rear decklid shocks are good for about 2.5 yrs. Make sure you cover the area underneath with a big towel to catch the parts you'll drop.
12-21-2007, 05:45 PM
#35
A pointer for the front shocks- just leave the ball clip in place and you can pop it on. (The DIY write-up talks about positioning the clip, but it's not necessary.) I used a jumbo screwdriver wrapped in a rag to wedge between the inside of the fender and the shock, then "levered" the shock off it's mount. The screwdriver is the fulcrum, so you have to work it down into that well fairly deeply in order to get enough leverage for the shock to pop off. I was able to pop the new ones on without tools and without messing with the ball clip.
Rears were pretty simple. Plenty of room to manipulate your hand once you get it back there. I was lucky not to drop any clips because I had a couple extra ones. If I didn't have extra ones, I would have lost the originals.
PM me if you need some clarification.
-Jim
12-24-2007, 10:03 AM
#36
Three Wheelin'
That's the exact method I used, too!
12-24-2007, 11:04 AM
#37
Already replaced my hood and trunk struts, all 4 were shot when I got the car so this was one of the first little projects. They both open/hold well with no drama.
Will be fitting an RS wing later and wondered if I need to use different struts due to the addtional weight?
Will be fitting an RS wing later and wondered if I need to use different struts due to the addtional weight?
12-24-2007, 12:36 PM
#38
I completely agree with getting an extra clip and one extra pin, they are way too easy to drop into places you can't see and the magnet can't reach. I used the factory rear struts last month when I did mine, I've found a tremendous difference in life span of these struts, some go for 4 or 5 years, others are gone in 2 years.
I think you want them to just pop the lid enough to get your hand under the lid,
I'd be concerned about anything that throws the lid up on it's own.
As has been said, the rears are just a pain, the fronts will teach you new words for your vocabulary. No kids nearby and warn the neighbors to stay indoors.
I think you want them to just pop the lid enough to get your hand under the lid,
I'd be concerned about anything that throws the lid up on it's own.
As has been said, the rears are just a pain, the fronts will teach you new words for your vocabulary. No kids nearby and warn the neighbors to stay indoors.
Last edited by CentralCoastC4S; 12-24-2007 at 12:38 PM. Reason: too early in the morning to be coherant
12-25-2007, 11:18 AM
#39
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The mechanical claptrap for the original tail was HEAVY.
The MA Shaw unit was light, but I never bothered weighing anything so can't make a comparison.
12-26-2007, 10:20 AM
#40
I'm don't know anything about the weights for OEM -vs- aftermarket RS tails. When I installed an MA Shaw tail it sure seemed like the weight decrease was more than 6.5 lbs.
The mechanical claptrap for the original tail was HEAVY.
The MA Shaw unit was light, but I never bothered weighing anything so can't make a comparison.
The mechanical claptrap for the original tail was HEAVY.
The MA Shaw unit was light, but I never bothered weighing anything so can't make a comparison.
12-27-2007, 11:49 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
After reading this post I decided to repair mine. Here are my comments on the part numbers and differences after talking with the boys at Sunset. 911.512.331.01 and xxx.02 are indentical in size and appearence. .01 has a rating of 320 #'s (or something like that) and .02 is much higher--something like 600#'s. My Sunset guy couldn't decern from his info if that was gas charged ratings or a rating of how much weight they could support.
We both agreed it didn't matter because it became obvious that the .02 must be for Turbos and/or Aero Kit cars.
Here is my own hypothesis. When looking around both Pelican and Performance only sell (1) choice for REAR decklid struts. (disregard their part numbers) Abeit they are less expensive than Sunsets. I think the aftermarket ones that both Pelican and Performance sell are probably the higher gassed up models. This allows them to have to only carry one item of this part type. People won't return a strut that explodes your decklid up, but if you have a Turbo wing/aero kit and ordered the lower charged strut it wouldn't work and you would blame the vendor.
Just my .02 worth.
BTW, I'm not that mechanically inclined and rarely attempt DIY stuff. The removal was actually quite simple. No clips or pins lost, etc. I'm going to move on to the fronts next. Maybe even spark plugs someday.
We both agreed it didn't matter because it became obvious that the .02 must be for Turbos and/or Aero Kit cars.
Here is my own hypothesis. When looking around both Pelican and Performance only sell (1) choice for REAR decklid struts. (disregard their part numbers) Abeit they are less expensive than Sunsets. I think the aftermarket ones that both Pelican and Performance sell are probably the higher gassed up models. This allows them to have to only carry one item of this part type. People won't return a strut that explodes your decklid up, but if you have a Turbo wing/aero kit and ordered the lower charged strut it wouldn't work and you would blame the vendor.
Just my .02 worth.
BTW, I'm not that mechanically inclined and rarely attempt DIY stuff. The removal was actually quite simple. No clips or pins lost, etc. I'm going to move on to the fronts next. Maybe even spark plugs someday.
12-27-2007, 01:07 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
Definitely on my list to do during the winter.
12-27-2007, 01:57 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
I ordered a couple extra clips and pins just in case. They were less than a buck each which I figured to be cheap insurance.