Over the last few weeks I've spent a great deal of time in/over/under my 993, tackling a variety of DIY tasks. Some were for normal maintenance, others were for the sheer joy of replacing stuff that really did not need replacing but begged replacing anyway....

- Replaced rotors/pads/sensors/spiders/bolts.
- Performed oil change (both filters/o-rings/washers).
- Replaced spark plugs (Bosch).
- Replaced upper & lower valve cover gaskets and cover bolts.
- Replaced all fender liners (10 pieces) and associated gaskets/speed nuts/screws.
- Replaced washer fluid reservoir.

I found some time today to get the car back on the ground and fired it up. The idle seems smoother - I presume the original plugs with 43,000 miles were worn and contributed to a slightly rough idle at times. Then I took it for a much-needed drive to bed the brakes and make sure everything works as it should. What a great feeling after having the car out of commission for so long

A few thoughts/hints/suggestions:

- The plug change is actually quite easy - once you've removed the lower engine tin on both sides, removed the air cleaner lid, removed the blower motor duct, and removed the mufflers. No need for any whacky extension combinations, etc. Everything is accessible from below, even the famed 12th plug (cylinder #6). I just used a nice 3/8" swivel plug socket, short extension, and a ratchet. Since I was in this deep, I replaced the valve cover gaskets and cover bolts.

- If you're adding oil and notice oil spilling down the outside of the filler neck, don't assume that you've just filled the oil too quickly. This happened a few times to me before I decided to check the oil filler neck extension for cracks. Sure enough, numerous cracks in the rubber/vinyl accordion hose. That promptly found a new home in the trash bin.

- When replacing the rear rotors, make sure to fully retract the parking brake mechanism. If the rotors are original (as they were in my case) the shoes will have worn a ridge into the drum area, making removal of the disc somewhat difficult.

The real reason this batch of tasks took so long is that I found myself attacking cosmoline/wax every chance I had. The suspension pieces actually look like cast aluminum again WD-40 works wonders on this tenacious stuff.

Before you ask if I'm nuts - I actually enjoy working on my 993 and learning what makes it tick. It's a great car!

Andreas

 

Sounds like a good time to me...

 

Andreas - nice list ! Congrats !
What made you replace the fender liners?

 

Can you eat off that car yet?

When you get yours done you can barrow mine....

 

DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT EVEN JOKE ABOUT THIS WITH ANDREAS. Eating off of the freakin' bottom of the car is not enough; he wants to do brain surgery, stem cell research and gene splicing on the bottom of ALL of his vehicles.

 

Mark,
Beware the magnet.


Andreas

 

James,
I certainly did and have visited the Tarrett Engineering, Hargett Precision, and Eagle Day sites one too many times
In the end, I felt the stock covers were in great shape (after cleaning the wax off the lowers) and I just took care to tighten the bolts properly. They should be fine. But red anodized covers still beckon

I will attempt the distributor belt replacement next.

Andreas

 

O.K. My next job is going to be lower vlave cover gaskets so I have to ask...
Being new to the underside of my 993 I plan gathering as much info as possible before I dive into this one. Obviously I'll change the oil while I'm at it. I assume I'll be removing my mufflers to get to the covers- correct? Might be a good time to have the bypass pipes welded in. What is the torque value for the cover bolts. Where there any crush washers that need to replaced? Also, when you refer to the engine tins. Do you mean the much talked about lower engine cover? Thanks again for the help!

Paul

 

Paul,
If my failing memory serves me, you'll need to remove the mufflers, the stainless steel muffler strap, and the 90-degree rubber elbow attached to the heat exchanger. Pop the plug wires off and undo the 11 bolts per side (lower). You'll find that each bolt (5 mm allen) will make a load 'snap' when you break it loose (if they are the originals). Depending on how your car is situated (two stands or four), you'll probably get some oil when the lower covers come off. Once the bolts are out, gently tap the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to break the seal.

Use a right-angle dental pick or similar tool to gentle prise the gasket from the cover. Clean the inside of the cover, paying attention to the gasket channels. Fit the new gasket and apply a thin film of oil to the surface of the gasket. I was told this would help the gasket seat as the bolts were torqued. Replace the allen bolts and and reverse the other steps.

As for torquing the bolts - I've read all sorts of recommendations here. My approach may not mirror what others have done, but I trust it. Once all the bolts were threaded in by hand, I started working my way around the valve cover, applying a bit more torque to each bolt as I went around. Once they started feeling 'snug', I began tightening further, starting from the middle bolts and working outwards. I repeated this until each bolt suddenly felt tight. It takes some patience. I've read a few recommendations stating that the bolts should only be threaded on a bit more than finger tight. No thanks.

By engine tin, I meant the steel covers on either side of the engine bay, through which the lower plug wires feed. If you are only doing the lower gaskets, these tins stay in place. As for the engine cover, mine landed in the trash a few days after buying the car...

Hope that helps!

Andreas

 

If you need any guidance, let me know. But I'm sure you won't have an issue.

 

The valve cover on the driver side is much easier to get at than the other side's. You should be able to get in there without removing much. I can't remember if I even had to remove the rubber heat exchanger ducting.

 

Todd,
Thank you. Did you completely disassemble your distributor, or were you able to replace the belt using the method someone described on Rennlist?

Andreas

 

WOW! One game of GO FISH with my kids and my questions are answered. You guys are truly a class act! Thank you Andreas.

Paul

 

The bolt that holds the right hand muffler strap bracket on mine was seized, and is now round on the inside and massacred on the outside. It's still not out. The bracket is in the way to take a dremel or such to it. It's a real s.o.b., that one, and I can't imagine the one on the other side being any different.

Peter R.

 

hats off to the diys.
very courageous. brave men indeed