Geoffrey

Mark, my first comment was meant to be taken in a joking fashon, knowing your racing experience. I didn't mean an insult by it. Perhaps it was in poor taste and I apologize.

The issue with the 95 suspension is real on many of the cars. I don't know if it is ALL cars, or when the suspension change was made to production, however, I am not the only one to experience this and this is well documented in several places, including by the PCA Tech Chair for 993s, Joel Reiser who has had a fair amount of experience with these cars, including putting his 95 into the wall at Mosport due to this issue.

chris walrod

No worries Geoffrey, I figured it was mentioned that way

I, too, would like to venture down the road to install this geometry update -- as I try to keep my cars updated. Updates are for a reason!! I will look for more information within the PCA q&a and Joe's answers. And, I have always respected his answers.

Mark in Baltimore

No worries, Geoffrey, just joking around, too, which I do alot. I totally respect you and the work you've done. I try to keep an open mind to everything and can only go on what I know or have experienced and, to date, I have not experienced the instability (watch me stuff the car into a tire wall at Summit this weekend and eat my words). Once I had polished the set-up of my Moton-equipped car, it has become, and I have written this on the 993 board so many times that I feel like a robot , an utterly stable and forgiving machine that makes an average driver like me look good because of the confidence it inspires.

Actually, I guess I can let the cat out of the bag, but a few of us have hired Chris Cervelli this weekend to help set up our cars and to coach our driving. After Chris droves my car, maybe he'll say it's unstable. I have a feeling he'll say it's too softly sprung, for I know he likes a very high spring rate.

tj90

Does anyone know if the A-arm has a P/N listed on it. Mine is a late build 95 as well and wondering what arm I have. BTW, I called sunset and they indicated that PCNA does not have any warnings regarding the new arm. I would think there would be a note if it causes suspension issues.

Chris - if you are so anxious to upgrade, you should sell me your 95 arm. Can you pull it tonight so I can work on it this weekend?

baron95993

Before you get the part make sure you call Vertex 1 866 668 0660. Ask for Charlie. Tell them I sent you (Baron from Texas) they will work you a deal on those parts you will not beleive.

black ice

Aaaaah, so that's what I'm feeling in my 95! Near the limit pushing the throttle, especially pushing into a decreasing radius turn like an on ramp, the car feels a little like its steering out in back. Is that the feeling you described with 95s?

I don't have time to look but in Excellence they talk about 95s as unique in the market update and also in a rear suspension article. It says something about the rear suspension before the 96 update wearing rear tires very quickly.

Mark in Baltimore

Are you on stock shocks or an old aftermarket suspension? When I first got my car, the rear would jump around, but that lasted all of one week after I replaced the Monroes with PSS-9's.

chris walrod

All this suspension talk -- just finished some front suspension work tonight

tj90

OK - need some more help. I attempted to get the a arm off tonight. I finally broke loose the 18 and 20 mm nuts furthest from the wheel. However, kinematic (rear lower trailing arm) is blocking the bolt with 18 mm nut. Toward the front, the 20mm bolt is being blocked by the heat pipe forward the heat exchangers. Is there a trick to removing the bolts? I tried loading the suspension wheel with another jack, but the rear arm gets in the way more. It looks like I will have to remove the kinematic and heat pipe.

Ball joint - I got a pickle fork to spread the ball joint. Stopped because Im scared that I will chew into the aluminum wheel carrier. I tried pounding the torx 40 with a punch but its not budging. I sprayed PB blaster, but did not want to go further and risk damaging something else.

Ive got to say, I have not disassembled anything else (shocks, springs brakes etc. do I need to remove the struts to unload the arm and allow more effective ball joint removal? I saw the porsche manual has a special cantilevered tool to compress the bolt I was pounding to separate the wheel carrier from the ball joint. I already chipped a coner of the torx head with the punch. A brief trip to pep boys and could not find the tool. I did however find a generic one online.

Maybe I should take out the strut - this would allow me to inspect the shock - which maybe worn out anyway.

Please give me your thoughts. I dont want to damage more compnents.

BTW, My a-arm strut is .00! This control arm does not even show up in the PET. only the .01 and revised .02 arm? Dont know what that is about...

Garth S

TJ,
This $15 ball joint spreader will make you deep 6 the pickle fork forever

I've often spread these joints using the BFH technique .... or the two hammer option: the hub eye securing the ball stud is struck sharpely at right angles to the stud axis .... the hole becomes oval for a micro sec, releasing the stud: CAUTION - the nut must be left on for 2-3 turns, for the separation can be dramatic! Also, if there is not a natural force pulling the assemblies apart ( as I recall in the 993 rear), then a 2x4 need be used as a lever to apply constant pressure before rapping with the hammer.

Never beat on the top of the stud, or nut on the stud..... practically never works.

tj90

Thanks Garth - Im going to try finding the spreader - it seems porsche recommends it anyway. Just to make sure I understand - You are saying stike the hub eye on the damaged a-arm in any right angle direction (basically horizontal when the stud is vertical) while applying a downforce with pry bar or something. Is the nut on there 2-3 turns to prevent the a-arm from suddenly dropping after the BFH strike?

chris walrod

If your tossing the a-arm in the trash anyway, using the pickle fork should be fine. No need to baby the ball joint boot (on the control arm).

tj90

Success - I finally got the control arm off tonight. I did a combination of horizontal blows while pressing down on a pry bar wedged between a arm and wheel carrier as well as pickle fork - trying to not scuff the the wheel carrier. I found that once the ball joint was removed, you could articulate the suspension enough to move the toe link out of the way to remove the rear control arm bolt. The front one came loose by loosening the allen bolt holding the heater pipe. I did not have to loosen the toe link so hopefully my suspension is still in alignment since I have not loosened any adjustment links...