Mark in Baltimore

At the risk of being haunted by Ray Calvo (RIP, Ray), who was not a proponent of stainless steel brake lines, and castigated by Steve Weiner, who is a good vendor for these lines? I know Andreas had some issue with his early-build '95 (mine is a late model-build '95 that came without the baskethandle but with Drive Block).

I see that StopTech has some lines for around $130. Are these any good and will I have any ABS issues? Any other recommendations? Pelican doesn't seem to carry them for the 993.

As always, thanks in advance, gang!

geolab

I have those, (goodridge)
60ish on ebay.
very happy

Slow Guy

Very happy with mine from Paragon Products (Rennlist sponsor). I think they were apx. $65.

DOT SS Brake Lines

Mark in Baltimore

Thanks for the replies! I had some of the Paragon brake lines ordered for me.

alsaab

Hi,

I just found this thread while searching for some info about steel brake lines, more specifically the rear ones. I'm referring to geolab's picture and have a question regarding the fitting of the line and the clip used. I had a look at my 1996 Turbo and noticed that the fitting for the rear brake lines is different from the front ones. The head doesn't seem to be round but kind of toothed. The steel lines I bought have round fittings, although of smaller section than the front ones. The clip also is different, u-shaped. Could someone (ideally Geolab) tell me if the opening in the body has to be modified to install the steel lines ? Can the original clip be used ?

Many thanks

Alain

geolab

bonjour Alain,
No modification necessary, but the rear connection to the steel lines is tricky.
you have to un-tighten the line from the caliper, then untighten and remove the old line from the brake system.
For the new line, the threads to install are opposite from one end to the other, so while tightening the new steel lines, you will turn the steel line clockwise and it will tighten on both ends, you may have to turn the caliper around itself to tighten both ends symetrically, if there is more threads on one end.
It is tricky because your lines should be at ease when fully tightened, with no twist at all. All original clips are used, no mod necessary, regards.

Ray S

I also use Goodridge. No complaints.

Slow Guy

Sorry Geo, I disagree. No need to remove the caliper to tighten either fitting. You can start both ends but don't tighten the end furthest from the caliper (inboard end), tighten the non-swiveled fitting to the caliper first, the fitting on the inboard will continue to rotate (as long as it's not tightened) then tighten the inboard coupling.

Or just connect/tighten the caliper connection first then connect the inboard end.

geolab

If you say so, I agree.
Mine on both inboard ends did not swivel, this is why I thought it was tricky.
thnx bill

alsaab

Hi,

well they're installed ! As usual it was way easier than I thought, too much thinking doesn't really help! I will bleed tomorrow......

Thanks

Alain

alsaab

Hi,

Actually I only bled the brakes yesterday. I did as per factory manual, just like for my former 4S except for the clutch of course. The problem is : with an empty accumulator the pedal is rock solid. Once pressure has build up, the travel of the pedal increases. Now this is obviously normal to a certain extend, but in comparison to before operations I have the impression travel increased. I also didn't have the opportunity to drive the car, so perhaps I'm just over-sensitive. Anyway, I have a couple of questions : with ignition off, how many strokes should it take to empty the accumulator (I tested and ended up with about 40 normal strokes)? Second one : how many times should the pedal be actuated (with filled accumulator) before the pump starts running ?

Many thanks

Alain