slvr993

This year I will be trailering my 993 in an open steel trailer. I've got a couple questions fror the pros.

1) I understand that about 10% of the combined trailer car weight is on the hitch which for me will be about 480lbs. How the hell do you tell how much weight is on the hitch???

2) Where should I tie the car down. At the wheels?


Thanks

Jeff

Greg Fishman

Check the DE board for lots of info on tongue weight, etc.

Tie the car down using the factor tie down locations in the front wheel well. In the rear I always tied them down through the wheels (straight back, not criss-crossed).

InTheAir

Read this article on the subject of trailering/towing:

http://aicportal.national.aaa.com/po...82c70089fd3f8/

swftiii

Check out autometrics.com for a set of tie downs for the rear. I have the full 993 tie down set on my car and it makes strapping it to the trailer very easy.

-Skip

Carrera GT

Definitely put the autometrics tie-down brackets (or something equivalent, at least on the rear ...I think their price is far too high) on the 993 -- I also use their links to make it easier to clip into the front of the car.

Don't tie down any 911 by the wheels, the alignment won't survive the experience. Don't tie the car down too tight, it's needless. All you need to do is secure it in place. I use a light, diagonal pattern. Keep in mind that no matter what you do, an emergency braking effort is a lot more force than you reasonably pre-load on the car, so it will move. By having safety clips on the hooks, the hooks can't fall off or work their way off the car. So use quality tie-down ratchet straps with locking hooks (so if something comes loose, the hooks can't fall off the car and let the car walk around on the trailer.)

When I used an open, tandem axle trailer, I winched the 993 on backwards to put the engine over the trailer axles. Tongue weight becomes an issue for much heavier rigs, for this situation, you want as much load forward as possible, so there's no real "tuning" to get the tongue weight.
Leave the car on the trailer with the handbrake on and the car out of gear (in neutral.)

Adam M

Buy 4 "T-hooks" which you can clip onto the straps. There are 'oval' holes on the chassis of the 993. Two behind the front wheels and two in front of the rear wheels. In the rear make sure you don't confuse the 'jack' point (circular hole) with the two oval holes. I personally would *never* tie a car down by the wheels, no matter what, but that is just my opinion.

ppressle

An easy way to guestimate tongue weight.

1. Measure height of hitch ball to the ground.
2. Stand on bumper and measure again the height to the ground.
3. The different in the two measurements will be the displacement from your weight.
4. Estimate how much drop you want to get to your 10%.

(On my car and a 16' trailer, I need to mount the car as far forward as the tiedowns allow.)

I also recommend the autometrics in the rear for cenvenience. I go through the wheels in the front. I also recommend getting the short hooks that attach directly to the ratchet mechanism.

Pete

Bull

A tongue weight scale is the real answer. they cost about $60, or any trailer sales/repair center will have one. There are several people at every event with tongue weight scales in our Region.

slvr993

Thanks Guys! I think a tongue scale is the way to go. I ordered the autometrics tie downs last night. Prodigy brake controller is installed. Ratchet tie downs for the back, chains up front. 4800 pounds with the trailer loaded, trucks good for 6200. Just need to get the weight distributing hitch installed. Do you need to notify your insurance company that your towing????

Jeff

Greg Fishman

I would use ratchets on all four corners.

pedsurg

I'd like to second or "third" the elegant autometrics solution for our cars.
Jack

ps: does anyone use their tow-jack combo?

mhm993

In our state, you automatically have liability coverage when you hook your non-commercial trailer to your insured vehicle. I was advised by my broker that there's no need to disclose unless you're seeking collision coverage for the rig.

catchacab

Jeff,

If this is your first time trailering read this.

http://www.primotrailersales.com/Towing_Tips.pdf

Placement (fore/aft) of your car is very important. You should take practice runs around your neighborhood and the local highways (202 is great for this). You shouldn't feel excessively more understeer in you tow vehicle. Should the rear of the trailer wag (move side to side) at reasonable highway speeds, move the car to the front of the trailer. If the rear of your tow vehicle porposes (moves excessivly up and down over bumps in the road) move the car towards the rear of the trailer. Drive locally in the rain and in windy conditions.

Make your first track trip a short one, (pocono is a nice short trip), give yourself extra time, and take your time.

I did everything the wrong way on my first trailering trip. I never drove locally with the trailer, and my first trip was to Mid Ohio (480 miles). I had to adjust the position of the car a few times on the side of the PA TPKE. Five hours of my trip was in the dark on unlit unfamiliar highways, with 1/4 of the time driving in the rain.

http://www.traileraid.com/traileraid...CategoryId=267

http://www.travel-trailer.biz/hitch-up-mirror1.html

I am in your area, feel free to PM me


-eric

slvr993

Eric

Thanks...I just printed those out. Doing some local driving is great idea. I've had the trailer at a storage facility and had to move it this weekend (they're getting rid of the outdoor storage and gave 2 weeks notice in mid january) anyway, towing home empty was nothing. Backing it into my driveway though...That was funny. I do need to get to an empty parking lot to practice that some more.

Jeff

Bull

No need for trial and error efforts for locating the car on the trailer. Just be certain that 10% - 12% of the total weight being towed is on the tongue when the trailer is perfectly level (equal weight on both axles). Then get a hitch head that puts the hitch ball at that level. Don't forget to include wheels/tires on the tire rack, full utility boxes and fuel jugs in the weight calculations.