Garage Floor Treatment - What Do You Suggest?
#61
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Thanks for the info. What type of prep is needed - same as epoxy?
Originally Posted by SpecialtyConcreteCoatings
It could be a DIY project since the application isn't too difficult. Generally, it's diluted colorants in pump sprayers; one colorant per sprayer. For a garage, it would be wise to have as many people spraying as there are colors. For a good application, the color needs to be even throughout and that may be difficult for a first timer. Another challenge is that the final result will look completely different than what it looks like right after you spray it down, after the colors bleed together and it's absorbed into the concrete. The most difficult part would be getting a good product. If there isn't much prep to your existing concrete, and you move all the crap out of your garage, it should be inexpensive to have a contractor do this for you.
#63
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I have the epoxy w/ flakes. I am very happy with the results. The shiny top coat has gotten dull but there is not a thing that can damage it. My girls peel out with their mini electric hummer all the time in there and I have moved lots of heavy metal cabinets around with little more than a fine scratch in the top coat. It can get a little slick with H2o. Definately not a DYI. It took the company 4 days from prep to finish. I have the whole floor coated as well ast the concrete footing for the wall which extends up 6" or so. I have had mine for over 4 years.
#66
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I did an epoxy floor about 6 yrs ago. It needs a refresher coat. It has held up to a lot.
I cleaned the concrete, etched, and painted myself. It wasn't so bad. I wore a resparator, as the fumes were pretty intense even tho door was open. I am trying to find out 2 things before I give it a refresher coat.
1. I have 2 cracks I need to fill and have been looking into what to use.
2. What has to be done to the existing epoxy prior to new top coat(s).
I cleaned the concrete, etched, and painted myself. It wasn't so bad. I wore a resparator, as the fumes were pretty intense even tho door was open. I am trying to find out 2 things before I give it a refresher coat.
1. I have 2 cracks I need to fill and have been looking into what to use.
2. What has to be done to the existing epoxy prior to new top coat(s).
#67
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Originally Posted by jw97C2S
Thanks for the info. What type of prep is needed - same as epoxy?
#68
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Originally Posted by whatyoutalknaboutwillis
It took the company 4 days from prep to finish.
#69
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Originally Posted by CarmG993
I did an epoxy floor about 6 yrs ago. It needs a refresher coat. It has held up to a lot.
I cleaned the concrete, etched, and painted myself. It wasn't so bad. I wore a resparator, as the fumes were pretty intense even tho door was open. I am trying to find out 2 things before I give it a refresher coat.
1. I have 2 cracks I need to fill and have been looking into what to use.
2. What has to be done to the existing epoxy prior to new top coat(s).
I cleaned the concrete, etched, and painted myself. It wasn't so bad. I wore a resparator, as the fumes were pretty intense even tho door was open. I am trying to find out 2 things before I give it a refresher coat.
1. I have 2 cracks I need to fill and have been looking into what to use.
2. What has to be done to the existing epoxy prior to new top coat(s).
Don't fill the cracks with cement, it will crack again in no time. You need to cut the cracks open with a grinder as deep as you can go. Then clean out the crack and fill with either an epoxy or polyurea. Mix in some sand with the epoxy or polyurea. The sand will add strength and also reduce the amount of material you need to buy, it should still be pourable after adding the sand. Polyurea is what I would recommend for crack repairs on an epoxied floor. It's a relatively new product, so it may be a challenge to find in small quantities. The two pros of the polyurea is that it retains some flexibility and has a pot life of 90 seconds.
If the cracks are large you need to cut control joints into the floor.
Where in NJ are you? We could do this for you.
#70
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Originally Posted by skicoach
I've had the garage floors in both my homes acid stained and sealed using a grit additive to the final seal coat...
#71
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by LT1
Racedeck knockoff called "Bigfoot Tiles"... I recently did this job for $1.60 a sq ft delivered.
#72
Pro
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Originally Posted by MrBonus
Are those the rubber or the plastic tiles?
#73
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by LT1
Plastic. i don't think the rubber can take the weight of a car--more for workshop/exercise room floors etc
#74
Nordschleife Master
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slightly off topic, but if anyone ever gets down to South Florida, check out the Ferrari showroom floor at The Collection, it is all stainless steel. A crew comes in every night to polish it.
#75
Three Wheelin'
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I just ordered the Big Foot rubber floor tiles. I was told they are more durable than the plastic ones. They should be here in two weeks so I'll be sure to post pictures for everyone.